Exactly how hard and tempermental is E-6 to process yourself?

[VictoriaPerelet]

I don't do enough color 8x10 to justify the cost of a Jobo setup
....
After doing a little reading on Apug, most people recommend the Kodak E-6 process over the Tenental E-6 kits, so that's the route that I will be taking.

Paul

Double check dates of posts on apug.

Kodak discontinued small quantity E6 chems 3 years ago. You can not get Kodak E6 5L kits. Only "barrel size" commercial lab quantities for $$$ and several weeks delivery delays. Plus you may need to review your residence codes for hazmat storage restrictions.

Price for current Kodak chemicals will make Jobo price a small change and after that current Kodak chemicals work only in Anritsu type replenisher machines.

And in case if "search button" does not work

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...-E6-Kits/page4

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/8...ak-e6-kit.html

[koh303]

I don't do enough color 8x10 to justify the cost of a Jobo setup, I only shot 20 sheets and have another 40 sheets that I have not shot yet. With the 4x5 I already use a Mod54 and use a water bath to keep temperatures. Bill I would defiantly shoot enough test sheets to make sure that I had the process down before I start on my Kauai slides. Thanks to all for the advice. I think I'll send the 8x10 out and process all of the 4x5's. After doing a little reading on Apug, most people recommend the Kodak E-6 process over the Tenental E-6 kits, so that's the route that I will be taking. I'll report back after I process a few.

Paul

Watch out of advise based on assumptions from folks who heard from someone who heard it from someone else that something is better then another.
Tetenal kits are one of the best things in the world since sliced bread.

Economical?

Perhaps... if you disregard the $3000 for the CPP processor, or many more bux for the higher models.

- Leigh

Why is that you must buy a brand new machine to do anything? I mean i know this is america and all, but capable used Jobo machines are plenty and easy to find, and will cost far less then 3K$.... ATL machines are not "better" then manual machines, in fact they might be worse as they are by far more complex.

But seriously, 8X10 is an expensive format and 350$ might not get you far no matter which way you cut it.

Investing a bit more in what might be gear you will use for years to come might be a good idea at this point.

[ataim]

Kodak discontinued small quantity E6 chems 3 years ago. You can not get Kodak E6 5L kits. Only "barrel size" commercial lab quantities for $$$ and several weeks delivery delays.
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OOPS, I just double checked B&H and did not notice that you have to buy in multiples of four or six And yes the dates on those Apug posts are old. So I quess its between Arista and Tetenal.

[tgtaylor]

it's about using right tool for the job. Jobo is one of them. I use older ATL machine and have lots of spares.

Thomas, I may have missed it here and on apug - do you have part #'s for current Kodak chemicals for both E6 and C41? After Kodak discontinued 5L E6 kit few years ago I switched to Arista and Tetenal.

I remember people on apug tried, but never came out with any combination for less than $700 for needed chemicals. Sorry, I'm not regulary read boards, I may have missed obvious.

Hi Victoria,

I haven't processed E-6 in...well the expiration date printed on one of my opened kit is 3/2008 and on the other 10/2009. The color of the chemistry looks ok to me except for thee "first developer, process step 1" which is a slightly darker amber col0r with perception in the bottom. Its practically empty with maybe 150mL remaining out of a Liter so it's probably no good. The other developer, Part A, is a light yellow in color and part B is clear so they are probably good. The rest of the kit is probably good as well.

I'm still working out of a 19-Liter C-41 kit that I first opened on 1/1/2011 (I was developing film on new years day!). I used it last about2 weeks ago and its still good as indicated by the color of the chemistry and the results. I have an unopened 19-liter kit also. With the C-41 I was most concerned about the fixer and I inquired on the forum and was told that if it had a vinegary odor and not a rotten egg smell it was also good. I ordered new C-41 fixer from B&H but before it arrived used what I had left (very little) for the run I did earlier last month. It was still good and when I opened the new fix it had the same odor as in the old bottle. The bleach last forever. So the C-41 really lasts.

Here's a link to the Kodak Tech Pubs on E-6 and C-41: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14330 . If you're serious about processing E-6, I would buy it in the current volumes available knowing that you would need to replace the First Developer more often. Anyway that's my take on it - maybe someone can chime in who has more experience than I.

Thomas

[VictoriaPerelet]

Thomas, that explains. I also had several 5L kits stored away, but eventually runned out.

For moment, I thought that you discovered 'secret' formula for low quantity Kodak chems, but then I double checked and no, no such thing Tetenal kit is actually as good as Kodak, at least for single shot development, so do not get discouraged when you run out of Kodak stuff.

[David Nardi]

I've been processing my own E6 films for 10 years now in a used Jobo ATL 1000 or ATL 1500. Never been a problem, perfect results every time. Having the time, temperature and agitation automated makes developing colour film no more complicated than B&W. Mixing is straightforward. Keep your workspace clean and follow the mixing instructions and you'll be fine. I do all my own 4x5 and 8x10's. I can even push film when necessary. I have been using Tetenal 3-bath 5L kits since Kodak stopped making their 6-bath 5L kits 3 years ago. I get my Tetenal kits from either fotoimpex.de/shopen/ in Germany or beauphoto.com in Canada (ask for Nicole). I'm developing 8x10 film right now as I write...well the machine is.

[StoneNYC]

I've been processing my own E6 films for 10 years now in a used Jobo ATL 1000 or ATL 1500. Never been a problem, perfect results every time. Having the time, temperature and agitation automated makes developing colour film no more complicated than B&W. Mixing is straightforward. Keep your workspace clean and follow the mixing instructions and you'll be fine. I do all my own 4x5 and 8x10's. I can even push film when necessary. I have been using Tetenal 3-bath 5L kits since Kodak stopped making their 6-bath 5L kits 3 years ago. I get my Tetenal kits from either fotoimpex.de/shopen/ in Germany or beauphoto.com in Canada (ask for Nicole). I'm developing 8x10 film right now as I write...well the machine is.

Wish I had the money for one of those!

[Richard M. Coda]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

[StoneNYC]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

Same tanks are fine, assuming your cleaning habits are good and you don't leave blix residue

But Praus is a place I would recommend, great prices, gold service and good color results.

[David Nardi]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

I use the same drums for all my runs: E6, C41 and B&W. Never a problem. Just clean and rinse everything well like StoneNYC said. Oh, and I never get black crud residue. If the local lab uses a roller transport unit it could be the result of a dirty rollers that they never clean as frequently as they should.