MF (6x4.5,6x6,6x7,6x9,6x12) B&W film images sharing

[Ootsk]

Ootsk, interesting effect. The shape of the frame, the double boundary on the right, makes it look like the view through a vintage viewfinder.
But the grain? Even in Rodinal, FP4 (in 2-1/4 format!) does not display such grain? This look like 50-year old Verichrome Pan stored in an attic. How did you achieve that?

I like the look, but it's basically as I shot it. The camera is old, so the double framing issue on the right just happens sometimes. The film went on a few plane x-ray machines. Sat in the camera for a year.
Many of the photos from that roll are similar. I challenge myself to compose correctly, so I can scan the film edges. But the lake one was crooked so I had to crop.
I'd love to know if I'm doing something wrong in my process. I honestly don't check the temperature of the water. I live in So.Cal, and use distilled from jugs that are room temperature.
Here's a few more from the roll. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Scan-150208-0001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Apples in a Bowl. Plaubel Makiflex, 240mm F5.5 Schneider Tele-Arton, eight seconds at F/16, 9x12cm EFKE PL100 film developed in ADOX-Borax film developer. Scanned on Epson 4490. Lens focused on stem of the apple in the very front.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Scan-150209-0001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Plaubel Makiflex Automatic, 180mm Schneider Xenar Plaubel Automatic lens, 1/60 at F9.5, EFKE PL100 9x12cm film. Developed in ADOX Borax MQ developer. Scanned on Epson 4490 Scanner. Handheld image

[darr]

Beautiful!

Thanks, Andy!

[6x6TLL]

I agree with Bernard - I use Rodinal exclusively on everything I shoot (APX100 & Tri-X for the most part in 120 and 4x5 formats), and have never gotten grain like that. That said, it really gives a unique look to your shots.

What temperature are you developing at? Continual agitation or intermittent?

[Ootsk]

I agree with Bernard - I use Rodinal exclusively on everything I shoot (APX100 & Tri-X for the most part in 120 and 4x5 formats), and have never gotten grain like that. That said, it really gives a unique look to your shots.

What temperature are you developing at? Continual agitation or intermittent?

I just use room temperature distilled water, because our local water isn't that great. Usually 68 to 70 degrees F. I put it in a round tank and do 2 inversions every 30 seconds, then tap to release any bubbles that may have been caused by the inversions.

[John Olsen]

On Pinnacle Road. Wisconsin is mostly flat, but I'm finding some nice hilly areas recently. 500c/m, 80mm lens, TriX plus yellow filter.

[IMG]N1 Pinnacle LFF by John Olsen, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Bernard_L]

I like the look, but it's basically as I shot it. The camera is old, so the double framing issue on the right just happens sometimes. The film went on a few plane x-ray machines. Sat in the camera for a year.
Many of the photos from that roll are similar. I challenge myself to compose correctly, so I can scan the film edges. But the lake one was crooked so I had to crop.
I'd love to know if I'm doing something wrong in my process. I honestly don't check the temperature of the water. I live in So.Cal, and use distilled from jugs that are room temperature.
Here's a few more from the roll. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

Don't misunderstand my comment as negative. I thought you were trying to (re-)create a vintage look, and successfully.

Technically, all I can say is that your images show a lot more grain than expected for MF FP4. Even any 400 ISO film should have no visible grain at the scale your pics are displayed on my screen. You mention yourself a few possible causes: "The film went on a few plane x-ray machines. Sat in the camera for a year.". Sure this does not help; and I was not far when I wrote "stored in an attic". But "I honestly don't check the temperature of the water." is the worst. Do yourself a favor: buy even a cheap thermometer, and try to bring your dev within 2°C (~3.5°F) of 20°C (68°F). Use the temperature correction table or chart provided by Ilford
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-co...tion-chart.pdf


If you seek advice from this forum, where I'm sure there are more qualified persons than myself, please post a smartphone pic of one of your negative strips, in front of a white background (keep some distance between film and background).

Also, how do you create from your film the digital file that appears on this forum? Not to start a digital discussion, just to have full information about your process and what could be improved.

[Ootsk]

Don't misunderstand my comment as negative. I thought you were trying to (re-)create a vintage look, and successfully.

Technically, all I can say is that your images show a lot more grain than expected for MF FP4. Even any 400 ISO film should have no visible grain at the scale your pics are displayed on my screen. You mention yourself a few possible causes: "The film went on a few plane x-ray machines. Sat in the camera for a year.". Sure this does not help; and I was not far when I wrote "stored in an attic". But "I honestly don't check the temperature of the water." is the worst. Do yourself a favor: buy even a cheap thermometer, and try to bring your dev within 2°C (~3.5°F) of 20°C (68°F). Use the temperature correction table or chart provided by Ilford
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-co...tion-chart.pdf


If you seek advice from this forum, where I'm sure there are more qualified persons than myself, please post a smartphone pic of one of your negative strips, in front of a white background (keep some distance between film and background).

Also, how do you create from your film the digital file that appears on this forum? Not to start a digital discussion, just to have full information about your process and what could be improved.

Thanks for the input. I didn't take your comments as negative. I appreciate the help.
And I AM trying to create a vintage look, which is why I'm pleased with the photos, and how they came out. I shoot film infrequently, and I don't take notes, so I'm just a 'I get what I get" kinda shooter.
I use an Epson 4990 scanner, using their software, then get rid of dust and make a few corrections in lightroom.
F.Y.I. I'll enclose another fp4 photo taken with an RB67, developed the same night as the other fp4.
Still some grain, but not as pronounced.

[John Olsen]

F.Y.I. I'll enclose another fp4 photo taken with an RB67, developed the same night as the other fp4.
Still some grain, but not as pronounced.

Nice image, wish I still had my trusty RBs. I think that the blotchiness in the sky isn't grain, if that's what you were noting. It looks more like the damage I did to my film once when I squeegeed it too hard. Is that possible in your process?