Enlarged negatives with Arista Ortho-Litho

[RPippin]

I'm attempting to make enlarged negatives from medium format and 4x5 negs. The first attempt making the inner positive looks promising, but have a few questions. I'm using Arista Legasy diluted as recommended by Freestyle and developing by inspection, which results in a short developing time of less then two min. Exposures are with a cold light head, f11 or f16 for 3 seconds. My question is, although I'm getting good tonal range, the film has peppering, small but easily seen all over including the border edge. In some cases, with longer development there is the added density, contrast, that looks almost like solorization. Safe light is a good 8 feet away and sitting on the floor. It's a Thomas with the proper, new, filters. So, my question is, developer, exposure, or time in the tray? Or any combination.
Thanks, and by the way, I'm doing this to make contact prints for P/P and other alternative contact printing.

[Drew Wiley]

Ortho litho is inexpensive, but it sure wouldn't be my first choice of a film for enlarged negs, unless you simply can't find anything else in the size you need.

[RPippin]

Not my only choice, just want some advice on this particular film. It's cheap and would serve it's purpose in a class I'm teaching in the spring semester.

[Jim Noel]

I have used this film for this purpose personally and with a good many classes.
I am not familiar with Arista Legacy developer, and don't even knowif it is designed for prints or film.
Highly dilute film developers work well with this film. HC110 diluted 1+20-1+25 from stock works well, as does D-76 1+5.

The best is Soemarkos LC-2 which must be mixed by the user from basic chemicals. I use this for in-camera negatives exposed in camera.

[RPippin]

Thanks Jim, I called Freestyle yesterday and they think they may have had a bad run with this particular developer. They wanted to send me another batch, but it didn't cost all that much and they were eager to help out. I've heard discussions on both film and paper developer for continuous tone, and think I might experiment with both for a while till i get what I'm looking for. Might try PMK next, at 1:30 for A and 1:15 for B. Never know till we try.

[Erik Larsen]

If you want to do it in one step with a reversal process here's a link. http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/nbyr.html

It's pretty idiot proof and is easy to control contrast once you do a few test strips and I've had good success.

Regards
Erik

[RPippin]

Thanks Erik, I did find this earlier and I should read through it once more. Appreciate your advice.

[Erik Larsen]

If the contrast is correct on your roll film for whatever process you have in mind, you can make a straight dupe onto this film. http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulcotodufi.html

You can't control contrast with this film, or at least I haven't figured out how but it is super quick and easy using a standard print developer.
Regards
Erik

[RPippin]

Thanks Erik, think I'll order some and try it out. Cheap enough at less than a buck a sheet.

[RPippin]

Just ran some test last night using PMK Pyro at 15ml A, 30ml B and 2 ltr's distilled water in a large tray with continuous agitation, one sheet at a time. Using f16 at 6 seconds, and development by inspection got the best results to date. Good stain and great tonal range. Next time I'll try 6 sheets at a time so as to not waste chemicals, and be sure to keep my finger prints of the image. All in all, I think Pyro is the way to go, and no fogging with my Thomas safelight.