Formally Learning B&W Photography

[Raffay]

Hey Raffay,

Use what you can. When I first got started in LF a few years ago, I went the "cheap" route. Boy, what a load of rubbish that was. In the past year I've tossed out/given away all my "cheap" films, since I want to make photographs, and not futz with "this and that"... I just want to make pictures. Being in the USA, I have more "options" at my disposal, but frankly, I'd recommend Kodak, Fuji or Ilford for b/w before anyone else. Kodak being MY favorite. Ya, it ain't "cheap" anymore, but neither is food(for the most part), gas, utilities, etc... Everything is more expensive now. MAKE EVERY FRAME COUNT. Use your brain to check yourself/your equipment before tripping that shutter. LF will MAKE YOU MORE METHODICAL!

X-ray film has gained popularity lately, I'm guessing b/c it's cheap to acquire(at least here in the USA). Personally, the "spray and pray" method towards LF photography is the antithesis of it all. Use (1) frame, maybe 2. Wait. Be patient, be ready . Using more expensive(and probably higher quality) film thats DESIGNED for photographic use first-and-foremost will deliver repeatable, quality results all the time.

I've never used D-23, but I know that "The Negative"(Ansel Adams) references it regulary. DIY developer is fine, but I'd stick with something SIMPLE TO MIX, AND SIMPLE TO USE, at least until you have your feet "soaked"(with experience)
Hence my mention of HC-110(or D-76). There are lots of DIY developers you can make that are very simple to use. However, getting the raw materials might prove to be a little bit harder, especially since you're in Pakistan? Just a thought, not sure. You live there, I don't

Anyhow, keep the "K.I.S.S."("Keep-It-Simple-Stupid") method close to heart as you progress . It doesn't have to be complex to be good. Simple is usually the best way!

-Dan

Hi Dan,

HC-110 or D76 or any other are not available. Does any of them come in powder form abroad, if they do then I can ask someone to bring it with them as liquid based are difficult to ask people to carry. A cousin of mine is going to Toronto and if available in powder form then I may ask him to get it for me.

Btw, did you get a chance to see my flickr account. I want you to look when you have time and tell me what you think.

Cheers

Raffay

[Regular Rod]

Hello Raffay

If obtaining chemicals is too difficult in Pakistan how about using coffee, vitamin C and washing soda? Just look in here at the results! It's a compensating developer too so will give you a lot of leeway with those highlights...

http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/

RR

[Daniel Stone]

Hey Raffay,

Just looked @ your Flickr. Great start!
Tray developing is great, however, if you can pick up a Jobo tank and some 4x5 reels, I think you'll greatly reduce(or eliminate) your chances of scratching the film. Yes, Jobo stuff isn't "cheap" these days since its in demand, but its very high quality stuff(despite being made of plastic) and properly taken care of it will last YEARS.

One of the things I noticed though, it looks like you've underdeveloped the film a bit for the majority of the people shots. The highlights seem a bit muddied, they don't "sparkle" enough to my eye. Maybe it's the just the monitor I'm looking at them on, but to my eyes, it looks a bit flat overall. Not a bad thing, maybe that's how you like it, but I think a bit more "pop" contrast-wise would be good.

What's your end-goal? Are you processing your film to print optically(via enlarger, or contact printing), or are you solely scanning the film and printing digitally? If scanning/digitally printing, then a flatter, less contrasty negative might be beneficial. I process my film for wet printing, despite scanning it a lot of the time now as well.

Good start though, the Razzle is a great camera! I just took delivery of my Alpenhause 900, still getting used to it, but handheld 4x5 is nice

-Dan

P.S. I really like the shot of your daughter and the bug

[Photo-Master]

Hello Raffay

If obtaining chemicals is too difficult in Pakistan how about using coffee, vitamin C and washing soda? Just look in here at the results! It's a compensating developer too so will give you a lot of leeway with those highlights...

http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/

RR

That's a great tip RR, sometimes you have to make do with what's available and mix and manage. I'm sure you will get to where you want to be with a bit of persistence Raffay, I strongly believe that the harder you work the luckier you get.

[joselsgil]

Raffay,

For raw/stock chemicals to mix your own developers, try your local college or university chemistry departments. I am sure a professor or lab technician can help you find a source for your basic chemistry.

I remember when I was in college and my first photography professor was from the former Soviet Union. He lectured us (the students), on how to mix raw/stock chemicals into developing chemicals. Unfortunately, I was relying way too much on Kodak, that I never really paid attention to his lectures as I should have. I figured that Kodak would be around forever and I really didn't need to learn how to mix my own raw chemicals to develop film. My how times have changed

Kodak D-76, Fixer and Ilford ID11 are sold in powder forms.

One good book to keep an eye out for is "The Darkroom Cookbook". It has a lot of different formulas for the photographic wet darkroom.

Good luck,

Jose

[Peter De Smidt]

D23 is a good developer. Since you can get the materials, that's what I would use.

[photobymike]

The college of Hard Knocks is where my degree came from...... that and Central Michigan University art class....but HK street school is where most of my knowledge came from....and hanging out here on this forum.... most people here are really more than happy to help in anyway ...so ask away.... even if you want to ask me something in more detail email me at photobymike@gmail.com.... i would be honored to help a young photog ....

[Taija71A]

... To save you from wasting too much film I would suggest that even if you have not done all the tests and fully understood the Zone System yet, meter the areas in your subjects where you want the shadow textures (as opposed to shadow details) to show in your photograph and position that as Zone III (2 stops more exposure than the meter first indicates)...

____

Just so as to not perhaps confuse the 'OP'...

... you would select an area of the scene (*for say your 'Shadow Textures' as per above)... Meter it and then 'adjust' your exposure by the 'difference' between the Zone you want in your final image... And Zone V.
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Therefore, to place the Shadow Details in your scene on Zone III, you would then, 'Decrease' the exposure by two f-stops (3 being smaller than 5)... From what your reflected light meter first indicated (Zone V).
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*We all know... That you of course meant to say 2 stops less exposure than the meter first indicates...

Thank-you, for taking the time to assist the 'OP'. Greatly Appreciated!
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Best regards,

-Tim.
________

[photobymike]

Hey Raffay,
Tray developing is great, however, if you can pick up a Jobo tank and some 4x5 reels, I think you'll greatly reduce(or eliminate) your chances of scratching the film. Yes, Jobo stuff isn't "cheap" these days since its in demand, but its very high quality stuff(despite being made of plastic) and properly taken care of it will last YEARS.

best investment in photography you can make

[Raffay]

Thank you for your continued feedback and valuable input. I have a question, say I have a scene in which there are shadows and very brightly lit areas, now if I have expose for the shadows then there is a chance that I will blow the highlights. I read somewhere that we should expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Below is my understanding of this:

When you expose for the shadows less light for the scene then the meter indicates which would be zone v, hence to get zone III you will expose light. This means that less film is exposed to light and when you develop after sometime the chemical will have nothing to react to in the shadow areas. As there is nothing to develop you can reduce the development time by N- required to protect the highlight.

Is this correct, but how to know N- what?

Cheers

Raffay