Paul I'm a bit late to the game here but that result you'd posted just over three years ago...looks great!
I sometimes think of doing glass plates...mostly for the dimensional stability which glass provides (thinking mostly for 11x14 negatives) - and your photo gives me some needed encouragement - thank you!
Question: this is the "Fomaspeed" emulsion as listed by B+H? ...and how did you rate this - ISO-wise?
Yes, this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...mulsion_1.htmlOriginally Posted by John Layton
I found it performed best when rated at 1 ASA.
Hello,
Does anyone have experience with dry plate tintype developing? I’ve tried the new HC 110 with Amonium Thiocyanide and had miserable results. I was using the Zebra Plates from Lost light Art.
Thank you for any input or suggestions
did you use lee lira's recipe ?
from what it looks like on the zebra plate website
you might be able to substitute 5ml many stock developers with 3g of thiocyanate in 300ml of water
rockland colloid used to use Dektol as their stock developer to mix in the thiocyanate into
( the site owner uses LQN )
if you click on time of development drop down
https://zebradryplates.com/how-to-us...late-tintypes/
it lists the Lee Lira's developer as well as the rockland developer
if you find a copy of the darkroom cookbook and Jill Enfield's book
you can also find a few developers in there too ( I don't have either books sorry )
it can be a finicky process !
Thank you, I’ll take a look
if I can ask, what was bad about the results, could it have been exposure related and not developer related ?
if you can do a test strip with a plate and a dark slide in front of the lens ( when I make my own I coat a few sheets of paper or a 4x5 metal plate cut small stick them in a 35 mm camera and do a test strip like that, foma emulsion is sold cheaply in the clearance bin at freestyle from time to time ( last I bought it it was 35$ for the 2KG jug ), makes it easy to do test strips and even coating your own). that way you can see what happens when you expose a little more or less ...
you probably know this already but in case you don't, basically what the developers do is they develop the mid tones slowly (it's really dilute developer ) and the ammonia from the thiocyanate bleaches (some old formulae use straight ammonia they really smell bad )and dicroric-fogs the black tones of the image so it is whiter/off white-creamier and the clear has no inversion because the black of the plate ( clear metal plate like white on film base ) so the black of backing behind the glass shows the black tones ... dry plates/SG-ambro/ferrotypes are great in open shade and can be kind of difficult in high contrast light... it's always an adventure shooting ortho glass and paper.
Last edited by jnantz; 7-Mar-2024 at 04:20.
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