Durst Laborator L138 S

[Larry Gebhardt]

Here are a few pictures of my cobbled together blower solution. Nothing fancy, and I'm ashamed of how cruddy the woodwork is on this (my shop was unusable when I built this, so I just used some scrap plywood I had laying around). I turn it on and off with a foot switch power switch from Harbor Freight. I think about $100 to $120 in parts.



Also, I just wrote up something about the variable contrast light source and the point light source I build so I could use the condensers for the Durst 138S. http://www.trippingthroughthedark.co...8s-condensers/

[Allen in Montreal]

They are great enlargers. You will come to love it.

Is your rig setup as a single turret that is not removeable or can you take the turret out and put in a single plate to use a unipla?
If you want to run a 210mm in the unit with a fixed turret, you need to start looking for a 72mm unipla. They are not that common and be expensive, if you take your rime, you can find a deal on one.

You may want to start collecting filter drawers when you can too, and set filters in so you don't have to go with below the lens filters.

The original bulbs can be pricey, but there are some good alternatives.
In Mogel thread, 300 watt lamps for 10 dollars a pop. Some G40 bulbs at 200 watts are good too if you can print with a 200 watt bulb (I use a 200 watt bulb most often, I keep a 300 and 500 at hand in case, but almost always use the 200).

People ask insane prices for some of the condensers on the Evil, but they are a dime a dozen and if you take your time, you will collect all the sizes you need.
The Nega138 is a really nice negative carrier. Focal Point still makes glass for it if you need new glass.

[Larry Gebhardt]

If you want to run a 210mm in the unit with a fixed turret, you need to start looking for a 72mm unipla. They are not that common and be expensive, if you take your rime, you can find a deal on one.

I use a 210mm EL Nikkor on mine. I had SK Grimes make lens plate that's cut to screw into the 67mm filter threads on this lens. Cost was $90. I also have a 180mm componon s that came with a custom plate. The 210mm is more even with the condensers, but needs much more extension for the same size print.

[sun of sand]

so 500 wt needs a fan and maybe 300
Not sure what the bulb is in the enlarger but since the extra is 500 I can only assume
Is there a way to tell the wattage by size or something? marked on the base or something? doubt its on the top of bulb

The housing gets pretty damn hot after a 1:30 of focusing


what are the detriments of going fanless

negative warpage even under the glass after taking the neg back out for storage?
bulb life expectancy decreases
heat absorbing glass cant handle it

what exactly

I'll cludge something or keep on eye on ebay but it's not on the front burner

[sun of sand]

no idea about the turret
it's a 3 lens turret
removable? no idea. i'm thinking not

[Allen in Montreal]

no idea about the turret
it's a 3 lens turret
removable? no idea. i'm thinking not

Some models have a turret that can be removed by releasing a screw that is right front and center, and the entire unit comes out and a single lens can be used rather than the turret. Others have a 3 lens turret that is mounted permanently (without modifications). Mine is one of these types, I am fine with the turret.

Larry mentioned a 210mm El Nikkor with a 67mm thread, that would a really good find, 67mm lens boards are very common.
My El is a 72mm and the Lapla 72mm are not so common.
Scour ebay.de for parts.

I am currently using the 200 watt bulb on the left in this picture, the Atlas standard bulb is on the right.

[Larry Gebhardt]

so 500 wt needs a fan and maybe 300
Not sure what the bulb is in the enlarger but since the extra is 500 I can only assume
Is there a way to tell the wattage by size or something? marked on the base or something? doubt its on the top of bulb

The housing gets pretty damn hot after a 1:30 of focusing


what are the detriments of going fanless

negative warpage even under the glass after taking the neg back out for storage?
bulb life expectancy decreases
heat absorbing glass cant handle it

what exactly

I'll cludge something or keep on eye on ebay but it's not on the front burner

I don't know what will happen if you don't ventilate the 500watt bulb. Something will overheat, but I doubt it will be the negative if you use the heat absorbing glass. It's also possibly a fire hazard. Given a new original bulb will generally sell for $100 it's probably a good idea to not overheat them. I also run my bulbs with a variac set between 80 and 100volts. I found each 10V drop cuts the light by half a stop. Based on some other info I found even a few volts lower than 115 will make the bulb last much longer (and run a bit cooler).

[Tin Can]

Get a watt meter, I use this one on everything new that uses wall power, I like this one since it is remote reading, but there are cheaper ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F7C005-...kin+watt+meter

I don't know what will happen if you don't ventilate the 500watt bulb. Something will overheat, but I doubt it will be the negative if you use the heat absorbing glass. It's also possibly a fire hazard. Given a new original bulb will generally sell for $100 it's probably a good idea to not overheat them. I also run my bulbs with a variac set between 80 and 100volts. I found each 10V drop cuts the light by half a stop. Based on some other info I found even a few volts lower than 115 will make the bulb last much longer (and run a bit cooler).