Pros & Cons of Toyo 810M....

[Ari]

...in reference to the Kodak Master 8x10.

I currently use and love the KMV 810; while not perfect, it is almost perfect, at least for me.

Relatively light, lots of movements, ample extension, and very sturdy.

And it's easy to fix; I bought one in rough shape, but have since worked it into a much more precise (and prettier) camera.

Drawbacks include age (in relation to condition, not age per se), unavailability/high price of lens boards, few precision movements.

Three of my past 4x5s have been Toyos, and I have a healthy admiration for the G-series; they are very well-built, if somewhat, um, corpulent.

Can anyone fill me in as to the quirks, pros and cons of working with a Toyo 810M?

I'll be considering a switch later on, but I'd like to be a little better informed as to the trade-offs.

I shoot portraits and architecture.

Thanks in advance.

[EOTS]

Hi,

I have a Toyo 45AII, Arca Swiss F-Metric 4x5 and a Toyo 810M ...
I don't know millions of other camera types, but below is what I can tell so far.

Pro - very sturdy
Con - very heavy (circa 7kg)
Potential Con (compared to 45AII) - there is no rotating back, you have to release the back, and re-mount it for changes between landscape/portrait (on the other hand a potential stability/sturdiness advantage)
Pro - bright ground glass with fresnel

Besides from that, the regular pros/cons of a folding field camera (in comparison to an optical bench):
Pro - very quick to setup
Con - perhaps not so much movements as a view camera
Con - many movements (like tilt/shift) are not conveniently geared as for example with the Arca above, only focussing is geared ...

Having said that, it doesn't lack a feature I couldn't live without or would sincerely miss for landscape work and portraiture ...

Lens boards adapters to Linhof Technika and Toyo 4x5 are available.

Best regards,
Martin

[Ari]

Martin, thank you.

I didn't know about the lack of geared movements on the 810M, but I suppose it is heavy enough as is.

The KMV has no geared movements, except r&p focusing, and also uses a removable back for switching between portrait and landscape.

The sturdiness of the 810M is something I come across quite often, as well, so I'd be very happy if I had the chance to try one out one day.

[John Conway]

I had an older tan/bone color model that I used for a few years. The camera was used mostly for portraits of my son . I even had the reflex viewing hood, although a little on the clumsy side, was nice to have. I loved the camera , and I regret selling it . The 8X10M is a beautiful camera and built like a tank.

[Otto Seaman]

Didn't someone here knock the Toyo 8x10 because the focusing track (or some other part?) wore out from grit/sand and was uneconomic to replace?

I think it's hard to knock the KMV in terms of weight versus strength. The Toyo 8x10 I played with was much heavier.

[Neal Chaves]

The Toyo 810M is an excellent camera. I have used one for years. Most if not all will need the bellows replaced because of pin holes. I installed a Westen Bellows made of 'lifetime material" in 1997 and it is still perfect. The camera focuses from the rear which is very advatageous when making portraits of working close up. Make sure all movements except rear swing are loose when folding the camera for transport or storage to preserve allignment. I have never felt the need for a wide angle bellows and use a 150/8 Nikkor on a recessed board and a 120/8 on a flat board.

[Ari]

Thanks, Neal; I have spoken with a forum member at length about the Toyo vs the KMV, and I think the Toyo would be a very nice upgrade.
The KMV is nonetheless a great 8x10 camera in its own right.

[Cor]

The Toyo 810M is an excellent camera. I have used one for years. Most if not all will need the bellows replaced because of pin holes. I installed a Westen Bellows made of 'lifetime material" in 1997 and it is still perfect. The camera focuses from the rear which is very advatageous when making portraits of working close up. Make sure all movements except rear swing are loose when folding the camera for transport or storage to preserve allignment. I have never felt the need for a wide angle bellows and use a 150/8 Nikkor on a recessed board and a 120/8 on a flat board.

Neal,

I too have a Toyo 810M, and agree with previous posters: on the 120 lens: surely you run into trouble with a portrait oriented image: ie the bed shows up at the bottom ?

I had this problem with a WA wolly (159mm), with the 165 Angulon I am ok (but that lens is having no usable coverage for movements anyway)

Best,

Cor

[Neal Chaves]

Cor,
You can "drop" the bed by tilting the back out to its limit and locking it down. Then tilt back the front standard to its limit and lock down. Back and lens will now be aligned, but you must then raise the lens to a centered position. I always use the 120mm and the 150mm this way. I don't recall making a verticle with the 120mm. I don't think it will catch the bed, but I wll check tomorrow, and post photos.
Neal

[Cor]

Cor,
You can "drop" the bed by tilting the back out to its limit and locking it down. Then tilt back the front standard to its limit and lock down. Back and lens will now be aligned, but you must then raise the lens to a centered position. I always use the 120mm and the 150mm this way. I don't recall making a verticle with the 120mm. I don't think it will catch the bed, but I wll check tomorrow, and post photos.
Neal

Hi Neal,

thanks for the feedback, I figured it would be something like you discribe, I tried it, but found it a bit awkward that way, no doubt I have to practise a bit, anyway with the 165 Angulon I do not have to lower the bed when shooting vertical.

Best,

cor