Pyrocat-HD is incredible

[BarryS]

Kevin-- I'm not sure there's any significant difference in image quality vs other developers--they all do the same basic job. Pyrocat HD rolls a lot of desirable qualities in one developer--very long shelf life, liquid concentrate, suitable for rotary processing, small tank, stand, divided development, proportional staining for alt process, inexpensive, open source, simple options to adjust activity with the stock solutions.

I think it would be wonderful if some of you guys would take some photos using the exact same exposures and then process one of the negs in say d-76 and the other in pyrocat, and then contact print them, so that we could all see what the actuall difference really is.

Don't get me wrong, I am not saying there isn't a difference. I am just saying I have never read all of the books, etc. on it, and I have never really seen what the difference is. And I would like to.

[Pasukaru]

7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer. Some photo guys use just water for the stop bath... but i have found that just a little acid stop works better

How much do you dilute the stop bath?

Thanks.

[Andrew O'Neill]

It's been my main developer for the past decade. I don't bother mixing it in glycol as I go through a lot. If you don't develop film often, then glycol is the way to go. Glycol is bloody expensive up here as well.
Pyro developers allow you to print the same negative on silver and alt processes. I cannot do that with my xtol developed negs.

[jp]

The pyrocat hd in glycol is good stuff. Your advice and steps are good Mike, but I simplify further.

I presoak, but haven't needed to change the pre-soak water.
I don't use distilled water except for the fixer mixing and final rinse. YMMV with local water quality.
I use water for stop bath. fill, agitate gently for 30 second, dump, repeat.
I like the tf4 fixer as hypo clear isn't necessary.
Formulary's instructions specify an additional soaking in the used developer. I don't do this based on forum advice and practical experience.

[photobymike]

How much do you dilute the stop bath?

Thanks.

Actually very light yellow .... Almost its clear

[Eric Rose]

I have been using PyroCat-HD glycol for many years. I find no reason to use distilled water. Maybe the water here is really just that good I presoak for 2 minutes with no water changes. Water stop, about a minute and then into Ilford Rapid Fix normal dilution. Wash for 20 minutes.

[Scott Davis]

I got turned on to Pyrocat HD by Lee Carmichael (RIP). It's been terrific stuff and is my go-to developer for virtually anything now. I've used filtered tap water for mixing it and have seen no issues. The one thing I've noticed about it is that when it does go bad, it goes bad QUICKLY. You'll mix one batch of working strength and it will be fine, a few days later the next batch is still useable, and a day after that, it fails in a spectacular manner. This probably relates to oxidation of the concentrate when the bottles are getting low, but it's something to be aware of, especially when you go a long while between batches of film. Rodinal it ain't.

[Bruce Barlow]

I use water as a stop bath. Several folks I respect recommended that. no pinholes, no bother. Works as well is it needs to.

Pyrocat HD in glycol. Yup. I found it much better for expanded development that will get me good PT/PT negs, and those I can print on Lodima.

I found that it doesn't suppress the lower midtones like I found HC-110 to do (HC-110 was my developer of choice for 25 years, too. It took a lot to unseat it from its throne). Midtones glow. I have no direct comparisons, which is a great idea to do, and if I could under my current circumstances, I would. All I can say is that I saw a difference in the proofs, and liked the difference enough to become a convert..

Cheap nitrile gloves for sheet film, just for safety.

[Jim Noel]

It's been my main developer for the past decade. I don't bother mixing it in glycol as I go through a lot. If you don't develop film often, then glycol is the way to go. Glycol is bloody expensive up here as well.
Pyro developers allow you to print the same negative on silver and alt processes. I cannot do that with my xtol developed negs.

Got to an RV supply store and buy anti-freeze for drinking water systems. It is the cheapest6, most readily available source I have found.

[mikebarger]

I got turned on to Pyrocat HD by Lee Carmichael (RIP). It's been terrific stuff and is my go-to developer for virtually anything now. I've used filtered tap water for mixing it and have seen no issues. The one thing I've noticed about it is that when it does go bad, it goes bad QUICKLY. You'll mix one batch of working strength and it will be fine, a few days later the next batch is still useable, and a day after that, it fails in a spectacular manner. This probably relates to oxidation of the concentrate when the bottles are getting low, but it's something to be aware of, especially when you go a long while between batches of film. Rodinal it ain't.

I miss Lee's posts.