Fujinon 125mm

[miesnert]

Hello,

I have a problem with my Fujinon 125mm w-n.
I take most of my pictures at night, and when I shoot something with light sources in the frame this lens seems to perform very poorly.
I suspect the coatings, and therefor I am looking at newer lenses. I really like the focal length so therefore the natural first lens to look at is the Fujinon 125mm CM-W, followed by the Super Symmar HM 120mm and Super Angulon 120mm.

Here's a sample picture of what I don't like about the lens. Around the light sources there seems to be a lack of contrast, and the blue spots which appear in every photo with strong highlights.


With my medium format equipment (RZ67 with 65 and 110mm, and Fuji GA645 60mm) I never had this problem, and with my more modern Nikkor 180mm W I also do not have this problem
(altough longer lenses are less prone to flare anyway).

Will the Fujinon 125mm CM-W, or one of the 120mm lenses perform any better?

Thanks,
Sander

[E. von Hoegh]

Is the lens clean? Open the shutter and shine a flashlight thorough it, it may be hazed inside.

[Doremus Scudder]

If you have one of the older single-coated Fuji lenses, then that is likely your problem (assuming the lens is in otherwise good condition). I've had some flare issues with single-coated plasmats before.

A newer EBC coated Fuji would be my first choice. It doesn't have quite the coverage as the older Fuji 125mm, but you'll get less flare.

FWIW, the older Fuji 125 is often preferred by those who need that bit of extra coverage, so you shouldn't have trouble selling/swapping it.

Best,

Doremus

[miesnert]

Thanks guys.

The lens is clean and clear, nothing wrong with the glass as far as I can tell.
Also, it is a newer 125mm NW (lettering on the outer rim with a filter thread of 52mm) in an older copal shutter.
As far as I am aware this is supposed to be an early version of the EBC coating.

I am now looking for a 125mm CM-W, but would like to now if the extra cost is actually going to improve my live?
The lens is a different design, but I have been unable to find any specific information on this particular subject.

[Drew Wiley]

Doesn't make any sense to me. I use one of these under high-flare mtn conditions with glaring snow against dark rocks and
all kinds of similar settings, and the performance is absolutetly superb. The lens has a stellar reputation in all its vintages.
Mine is EBC multi-coated, but was made long before the CMW series. Fuji's coatings have been top-notch for quite awhile.
Maybe your problem has nothing to do with the lens itself, and you need to round up other suspects.

[E. von Hoegh]

Thanks guys.

The lens is clean and clear, nothing wrong with the glass as far as I can tell.
Also, it is a newer 125mm NW (lettering on the outer rim with a filter thread of 52mm) in an older copal shutter.
As far as I am aware this is supposed to be an early version of the EBC coating.

I am now looking for a 125mm CM-W, but would like to now if the extra cost is actually going to improve my live?
The lens is a different design, but I have been unable to find any specific information on this particular subject.

Are you using a filter of any sort in front of (or behind) the lens?

[Bernice Loui]

Something is causing diffusion in the image. or something is out of whack in the lens itself. This is not normal behavior for a modern lens.

Possible the lens is not completely threaded into the shutter or one of the internal elements got out of whack..

Has this lens ever produce proper non-diffused, much lower flare images under different lighting conditions?


Bernice

[E. von Hoegh]

Something is causing diffusion in the image. or something is out of whack in the lens itself. This is not normal behavior for a modern lens.

Possible the lens is not completely threaded into the shutter or one of the internal elements got out of whack..

Has this lens ever produce proper non-diffused, much lower flare images under different lighting conditions?


Bernice

I'm still thinking of the light internal haze as a possibility. The OP has not indicated whether or not he did the flashlight test - he'll need to duplicate the conditions in the picture he posted to see the haze - sometimes it's hard to see.

[miesnert]

Hi guys,
thanks for the replies.

Here's some examples of images I made with the same lens that do not have the same problem, but it usually only occurs with very bright light sources in front of something much darker:



I have looked trough the lens while holding it in front of a lightbulb, I cannot find any haze of fungus.
I have decided to take it to my local camera store and have them taqke a look at it.
If they cannot help the problem I'll take a chance and get a CM-W.

[E. von Hoegh]

Hi guys,
thanks for the replies.

Here's some examples of images I made with the same lens that do not have the same problem, but it usually only occurs with very bright light sources in front of something much darker:



I have looked trough the lens while holding it in front of a lightbulb, I cannot find any haze of fungus.
I have decided to take it to my local camera store and have them taqke a look at it.
If they cannot help the problem I'll take a chance and get a CM-W.

Again, shine a point source light through it as I suggested above. Haze can be vary hard to see, a point source will duplicate the conditions under which you are having problems.

if you have a camera store nearby where anyone knows anything about this, you are indeed fortunate.

Again, are you using filters?