Well, I certainly learned a lot from asking an innocent question! Thanks everyone, for your answers (so far!)
Well, I certainly learned a lot from asking an innocent question! Thanks everyone, for your answers (so far!)
I am new to wet-plate and wanted to post a few portraits I did back around the new year. Still need to scan some of my more recent ones but thought I would post a few.
All of these are 4x5 ambrotypes. I haven't had much luck making good scans yet (another process to I need to practice) so these are all photos of the plates.
Here is a recent 8x10 plate on aluminum. As per a rather interesting discussion I can honestly say on my computer screen (Mac) this scan (epson V700) looks very much the color and tonality of the actual plate. I made an 8x10 print (Epson R3000) for the model which I often do for local models to say thanks and it also looks true to the actual plate. I am not endorsing these products but they work for me. I only sell original plates at the gallery that represents me, but I don't think there is anything remotely wrong or distasteful in anyway of making prints for sale. I have purchased digital ink jet prints as well Platinum Palladium prints from digital negatives that were from wet plate positives and I display them at my house. I just choose to sell plates, but it is just a personal decision. Peace.
I shot this quarterplate yesterday. My scanner software is kaput, so I had to manually adjust the twain input. This is pretty close to the actual plate color, but not perfect. My old custom New Mexico mule saddle.
Garrett
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one of the better plates from my 2nd session . lessons learned :
- how long to wait for collodion to settle before dipping it into silver
- too fast dipping and design of dipper causes swirly patterns on lower edge with streaks to the top
- striations / crepe lines solved by rocking the plate correctly
9x12 aluminium, LED lights, 1s @ f5.6, OWH, MD-4 (15-20s), fomafix, epson v500 scan
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