Using Uni-Color drums for processing X-ray film in HC-110

[Randy]

I have been processing 8X10 X-ray film in trays using HC-110 "H" for a while now. I want to give my Uni-Color drums a try. I think I purchased them many years ago for processing Cibachrome prints. I have an 8X10 and an 11X14, with end caps.
Anyway, I have no experience processing film in any rotary processing methods, so I have some questions.

1 - Since the X-ray film I use has emulsion on both sides, and my drums have thin ribs that run the length of them, will the film contacting these thin ribs affect the processing of the emulsion layer that is against the ribs, causing me to have to strip the back emulsion layer?

2 - Since very little chemical is used in these processors, will I still be able to use dilution "H" (1:63) or will that exhaust to quickly, making dilution "B" necessary.

3 - I will be rotating the drum manually and assume that agitation has to be constant. Any thoughts on how fast I need to rotate the drum?

[Wally]

I use HC110 in unicolor and besseler drums for 5X7 HP5+. I use 150mL of dilution H, which is at the raggedy edge of what's recommended for minimum developer, and have seen no issues yet, but 8X10 at dil.H and you might be running out of juice. I'd recommend dilution D instead to keep from starving out on developer, especially with the double-load of silver.

I use the drum turner, which spins the drum about 20 rpm (rough guess), and it agitates continuously. It goes about 1.5 turns clockwise then about 1.5 turns counter-clockwise, which I think helps keep streaking away.

[John Kasaian]

My Unicolor has been giving me fits after over a decade of excellent service---1/4 of the film I exposed at my last shoot was screwed up because of uneven development and I stil can't unearth the problem so I'm tray developing now. With ortho film you can tray develop under a safe light---a piece of cake!

[Randy]

I tray process X-ray film with a red safe-light also, but the problem is that film is so prone to scratching. I was hoping that using the drum might solve that problem. If all I am going to do is scan, I can get rid of the scratches in PS, but if I want to contact print, which I would like to, I can't have all these darn scratches.

[Jody_S]

I gave up on the drum after some very uneven development. I started stripping off the back emulsion so I didn't care if it got developed, but rolling the drum over the counter as recommended in their instructions yielded much heavier development of the ends of the film. So I'm back to trays, emulsion-side up (notch the film so I can keep track), one sheet at a time, and if there's a scratch on the backside I don't care because it goes away when I strip. I still get minor scratching on the front from washing and hanging to dry. If I could wash each sheet individually I might solve that as well, or I need to get some SS hangers and a wash tank.

[Randy]

I gave up on the drum after some very uneven development. I started stripping off the back emulsion so I didn't care if it got developed, but rolling the drum over the counter as recommended in their instructions yielded much heavier development of the ends of the film.

Well crap.

[John Kasaian]

If you are going to use the Unicolor, a motorized base! I have had many excellent negatives using one. It sounds as if maybe a smooth, ribless tank with those self adhesive silicon "bumps" Drew Wiley uses in trays would be less prone to scratching instead of the Unicolor's ribs. Just a thought.

[Tav Walraven]

Randy....

I have used the Ciba drums for years on a motorized base that turns both ways. All of my drums are smooth inside. I have only processed 11x14 and 12x20 film this way and they have always come out with no streaks or uneven development. Those negs have been used for pt/pd prints and it is the only way I'll process what film I have left in inventory. I've received 11x14 and 14x36 X-ray film and will cut the 14x36 down to 12x20 soon for testing and will try the same drum processing I have used in the past. I'm sure patience will be a large part of the equation with the potential scratching problems but with the price of Ilford film vs. x-ray film in ULF sizes, the wallet seems to stay thicker purchasing x-ray. I have a good friend with a fabricating shop and took him a piece of my 12x20 film. He cut a piece of stainless plate which is .058 thick to the exact size of the 12x20 film. I have a piece of glass cut to 14x22 and will put the x-ray film on that, put a piece of 24# paper on the film, then the stainless plate on the paper, weight it all down with a gallon container of water, and get to work with a utility knife. Hopefully, out comes (somewhat) inexpensive 12x20 film. I mention the above process for those interested in cutting down the 14x36 to any sized smaller formats not available in standard sizes. Time permitting, I hope to have this all done by Sunday and I'll report back with any results, success or failure!


tw

[Randy]

Thanks for the input Tav. I guess I just need to break down and try a couple sheets this weekend. I do not have a motorized drive so I will be rolling it around on the bathroom floor or perhaps kitchen counter.

[SergeiR]

Motorbase here...

I processed only couple of xrays in mine, but basically its same deal as with using jobo print tanks. If you put film carefully in - you not getting any problems at all. If you try to force-slide it - ribs will scratch other side of emulsion (i got both effects, b/c i didnt get first sheet in right and had to pull/force it a bit). If you stripping - wont matter. If you not stripping - then just carefully bend film get it inside of tank and then just kinda tuck it into groves.

As of uneven development - didnt see that one at all - both sides were perfectly developed.

I did presoak it for 5-7 minutes (as i do with regular film.. 5 normally, but sometime if i do something while it soaks - i do get carried away ).