Timber thickness - 8x10 rear frame

**Lachlan 717** · 4-Mar-2013, 17:18

Can someone please suggest the "usual" thickness of the timber used on the rear frame of an 8x10?

Should it be around 10mm (3/8")?

I have a set of Sinar bellows (285mm square) and a 'Dorf back (305mm), meaning that I have 20mm to play with. As I need 2 sides, this leaves 10mm each side.

I realise that there is no standard for this; however, your experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

**Jim Fitzgerald** · 4-Mar-2013, 17:32

All of the cameras that I have built I have used 1/4" for my back box.

**Lachlan 717** · 4-Mar-2013, 17:35

Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald

All of the cameras that I have built I have used 1/4" for my back box.

Thanks, Jim.

That might work out as being better than the 10mm. The timber that I intend to use is 20mm (3/4"), so I can rip it in half and save stock.

Not to mention weight!!

**Jim Fitzgerald** · 4-Mar-2013, 17:40

I may have used 3/8" on the 14x17 but the just finished 8x10 was 1/4" and is just fine.

**Lachlan 717** · 4-Mar-2013, 18:01

I'm guessing that, once the film back is locked in place, the whole back becomes quite rigid.

All I have to do now is work out how to attach the Sinar bellows so that the can be removed relatively easily if I want to put a set of bag bellows in.

**Curt** · 4-Mar-2013, 20:33

1/4" to 3/8" I suggest 1/4" as a balance between weight, cost, esthetics, and convention, which will be hotly contested I'm sure. Don't fall into the pattern: "If all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail". I hear so often, "I used xxxx because I had it", while that may work on the farm try to be selective on materials. Like asking here, which you've done, that's a great start. Ask more and many questions!

**Lachlan 717** · 4-Mar-2013, 21:24

Originally Posted by Curt

1/4" to 3/8" I suggest 1/4" as a balance between weight, cost, esthetics, and convention, which will be hotly contested I'm sure. Don't fall into the pattern: "If all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail". I hear so often, "I used xxxx because I had it", while that may work on the farm try to be selective on materials. Like asking here, which you've done, that's a great start. Ask more and many questions!

Thanks, Curt. The timber's 20mm thick, so I can buzz it down to whatever I need.

I'm sure that there will be more questions!

I'm hoping to start on the rear frame this week. Finally worked out how to do accurate finger joints.

I've done the front Standard (aluminium, based on a 'Dorff swing design; but this might get redone), although I need to work on the timber parts. Need to nut out how to attach the Sinar Shutter so it's out of the way. Rear standard is still on the drawing board, as I don't yet know the exact size needed (will know after the rear frame is done), nor have I finalised how to set it up. I want centre, not base, tilt.

The base is still eluding me somewhat. I'm making this a clamshell design, but want to reduce the weight of a solid timber base. I'm thinking of using some Carbon Fibre inserts for strength, rigidity and low weight. Got to work out how to tap a tripod mount into this.

I've worked out the knobs. These are based on the Ebony/Shen Hao single knob/dual lock system, so that I can control tilt and rise from the same place.

Gears are next on the list of hardware. I think that I have found a place that has them. But difficult here in the Antipodes!!