I was reading up D23 in the film development cookbook, and it was referred to as a divided developer. The first bath was D23 and the second bath was Borax granular, I have been using D23 only and want to know the second bath is required.
Raffay
I was reading up D23 in the film development cookbook, and it was referred to as a divided developer. The first bath was D23 and the second bath was Borax granular, I have been using D23 only and want to know the second bath is required.
Raffay
Out of curiosity I looked up the T-Max Developer tech pub. It mentions that 45ml of developer should be added for each roll of 36-exposure 135, so I assume that's how much developer they say is being used.
However, I've been experimenting with different dilutions and I used 6ml in 240ml of solution for a roll of 135, which worked fine. I wonder if there is a better way to determine the absolute exhaustion rate of a developer?
My current combination is Tri-X exposed at EI 100 and stand developed in D-76 1+3. My normal te is about 11.5-12 minutes at 68 deg F. I haven't read much about this combo. I like the results.
Thank you Ken, I guess it is time for me to read up and bring my knowledge up a little before I make someone go mad explaining things to me. I actually don't exactly know how to go about expose the the shadows and develop for the highlights... So I guess it is time for me to quit asking and start reading so that I can ask more questions that require clarifications and not concept building onesOriginally Posted by Ken Lee
Btw, your photography and specially the D23 formula on your site made LF possible in Pakistan as there are no other chemicals available for some strange reasons.
Cheers
Raffay
Even more important than the reading is to do, and then to learn from your own mistakes. Sometimes reading is the last thing you should do. The zone system is best left alone until you need it, if at all. It is a potential minefield of fussiness and infinite testing. Experience is the best teacher. Maybe take lots of notes and keep it simple until you find a system that works for you. And go back to the theory later when you can use it to explain some of your results.
David Cary
www.milfordguide.nz
I'm going to make the most outrageus, old fashioned recce on here. If you are shooting 4X5, get a box of Ilfords Ortho+. Develope it under a deep red safelight. In un-divided D-23. You will learn more about film developing in one box of Ortho film than in almost any other way. Especially where you live. After you go through that box, and realize that panchromatic film is the same stuff, except has an added dye to make it sensitive to red light. So, you can learn exactly how film responds to exposure vs. developement. And it all translates to panchromatic film, but without having to litterally work in a stygean gloom. Like I once said, I started 67 years ago. So I learned to develope undewr the red light. My grandfather was a great believer in the Watkins Factorial Metheod of developement, and he taught it to me. I reccommend you apply it to your work. Essentually, you time from the instant the plate or film is drowned in the developer until it flashes up. You multiply that amount of time by a "factor", depending on the developer.
Once you develope a system of factors, you'll have a grip on developement, even on that pesky, over-rated, but almost universally used pan film. On that subject, my grandfather had a great respect for pan film. "Good for portraits of ladies over 25 years old".
Hello,
I am thinking of a 1:5 ratio for D23. I have a 1.5 Litre tank so I was thinking 250ml of stock and then5 parts water to make 1500ml. This will save me on developer and I may get some good results, just want to try. I am not sure by what factor i am to increase the development time by. Like I am developing Ilford fp4 for 7 mins and Kodax tmax 400 for 10 minutes, I don't think it will be 35 and 50 respectively i.e. original time times the 5 the dilution ratio, would appreciate your input, thank you.
Cheers
Raffay
In general, development time for continuous agitation varies as the square root of dilution. For example, if your normal development time is 7 minutes in a 1:2 solution, and you triple dilution to 1:6, your new time would be 7(sqrt(3)) = 12.1 minutes.
As agitation "slows" the relationship between time and dilution becomes both longer and weaker. So for intermittent agitation (like 35mm inversion agitation in a small tank), many people like to start with the idea that doubling dilution -> doubling development time. So if your normal time is 7 minutes and you double dilution, you then double development time to 14 minutes.
When you get to stand or semi-stand agitation, all bets are off. You'll just have to test and see what works best for you.
And I should reiterate that these are considered starting points. You'll still have to test and optimize times for your materials and individual workflow. And you should check to make sure you use enough stock developer to avoid exhaustion of the developer; developer exhaustion can play havoc with the image and can make a mockery of your development times.
Bruce Watson
Well, Raffay. What to say. If you dilute D-23, it's a one shot developer, so develope than throw it away. If you use D-23 straight, put it back in the dark brown bottle with a screw top, and top it up with a little fresh developer (kept in real small bottles) seems like that's a little more economical, doesn't it? And economical doesn't always mean money...it's also with chemicals, which you may not be able to get any time you want them. Likewise, every dilution of D-23 changes the way the developer acts.
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