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Michael, that little table you did earlier is v. interesting and food for thought. It looks sensible to try a more significant increase in the amounts of A and B on my next try, given how much...

And do these developers also reduce the grain-scatter ( Callier effect ) in upper mid-tones and highlights ?

Ah, I was thinking back to the way some of your discussions with DREW have developed, regarding staining developers.

I suspected that you would eventually turn against the subject, Michael.
Good that you are, however, warning us callow impressionable youths against the dangers of getting too tied up in staining...

Aside from the stain colour and its effect on density - which was part of the interest.
https://sandykingphotography.com/an-intro-to-pyro-staining-developers/

Hey Martin - not so fast - we had two days straight without any rain, at the weekend !



Back in 2005/2006 when I was a half-assed fell runner, I could beat the train going down, and was 5mins...

Thanks Michael, yes.
I'll have a good look at the numbers ref WD2D and WD2H and have another go with an 'educated guess' at what might work.
I will probably also try the experiment with PMK 'A'...

(Edit : this reply to Mark, not to Michael ) :

Oh I already did a print from one of the negs exposed with a slightly more concentrated mix.
It was fine, but the subject wasn't all that demanding...

OK I should clarify, the Zone 2 detail on the WD2H ones was nearly the same as the PMK ones, so i don't think there's a fundamental loss of speed; they just look under-developed.

OK. I haven't got a densitometer ( we used to have one at work but it's been retired ) .
I keep thinking about it but find it hard to justifiy approx £1000 for a current one with a blue channel...

Thanks for putting that together Michael.
I went part-way through something similar when I got the first results from WD2H.

I'm not sure I can agree with you that the sulphite-to-developer ratios...

Fine, I understand ; let's see if anyone else comments. I can do some maths in the near future and work out how to make a larger bottle of 'A' solution that adds more water, Metol and Pyrogallol but...

Alan, we must try and work on this problem - because I have over £20-worth of Pyrogallol locked up in that 250ml 'A' bottle !

Looking back at the formula, I can see that one of the differences...

Unfortunately no, not that I'm aware of. That's why optical shops use either a test plate ( sphere ) matched to the design radius, or nowadays, interferometers stationed in the shop.
You will just...

Nice shot, is that from Harlech ?

Well, I disagree, that sounds plausible for polishing with pitch ( grinding with fine grit would remove more ) if the glass is soda-lime eg. float glass.
ps. I've made about 6 telescope mirrors.
It...

Yes, you slide things onto them, and slide things off them ..... ;o)

No but seriously, here is a picture, they were made years ago from rough 3/4 ply, and refurbished by me recently, to paint the...

It's tough to remember back 30 years, but I owned a Tachihara 5x4" in the early 90's and it was very good. I don't remember any obvious shortcomings, but I sold it because I concluded that 6x9cm with...

You may find that Superpan 200 is a little cheaper ( it is in the UK ) and it is the same emulsion and probably same base.

What's the part about cell interchange ?
Have you got a link to the brochure ?

I must look into the Macro Sironar data, I had not realised that it might only be 6 elements. The Schneider's are.
The Apo El-Nikkor is 8 elements and the central doublets have a fluor-crown for...

Interesting, that suggests it's inferior to the Schneider Makro-Symmar 120.

Yes, these lenses ( also the Apo Macro Symmar HM and the Apo Macro Sironar ) are the same element count and very similar overall design to the rare Apo El-Nikkor lenses, albeit optimised for a lower...

Great - sounds like the macro Sironar will be perfect !

There's a 150mm G-Claron, it's slow, but should be good for 1:1 and almost up to 2x with your bellows.... not expensive.

Some good comment above, but can you just remind me of your format, and an estimate of the mag you're getting - sounds like around 1:1 or is it bigger ( more mag ? )
Maybe I can think of something...

These are a bit longer in optical construction than eg. a G-Claron,so I'd suggest 3:1 to 1:3 for critical use, this would be more at wider apertures, and when stopped down probably more, 1:5 to 5:1...

There is a set of three trays, one on the worktop and the stop and fix on the shelves underneath. Then in the main kitchen I have a holding tray if I'm doing a mix of stuff, some which needs washing...

Smaller Symmar-S/Apo-S/etc are already pretty sharp at f/8 and super-good from f/11 down. The bigger ones from 210 up need a bit more stopping down to be sharp over a decent area.
I agree with Oren...

The tonality of 40's/50's films, especially, is wonderful.

Here's a 5' x 7' darkroom with a 5"x7" enlarger that can do 20x16" prints. There should be a Nova 6-slot washer in the corner on the wooden table - I had just commissioned the enlarger here and was...

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?59085-Wimberly-WD2D-and-Jobo-Rotary-Processing-Heaven!

Very interesting, thanks. I had picked up a couple of old postings about WD2D/+ being 'thin' .

John said that the 'cookbook' missed out the sodium bisufite, 20g . Not the pyrogallol.
When I get time I'll dig out the link to his posting.

Seemingly, but however John gave all of the info at the time it was posted here ( 2011 ) , I just checked my copy and it was 9.5 mins for FP4+ for an N development at 70°C.

I did Alan, I mixed some up early this year and tried using it. I agree that the dilution seems to be 1+1+64.
( ps. i still don't believe there is such a thing as WD2H+ , I think it's WD2H. It's...

A standard lens might be fine on this subject, but the image errors at a non-designed mag are not just field curvature - you also get coma and astigmatism in the field. This will alter the sharpness...

Norland cements like 60 ( and 61 ) are widely used in industry, but maybe aren't the best choice for home use. Their expiry date is usually short and you need UV lamps.

The Apo Ronar ( and Apo Artar ) fares better across Infinity to 1:1 because its field angle is lower. The trade-offs aren't as harsh in this case, as with 70 - 72° lenses.

I have looked at the...

I'm not trying to get at you, Kevin. I'm just coming at this from a different angle, being a designer.
Re. separation, I was thinking in the context of the OP's 300mm Symmar picture.

As it is, i...