180/2.8, just in case the idea tickles you. Explanation below photo. It sharpens up as stopped down, of course.
. . . . https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/26275968925/
Type: Posts; User: mdarnton; Keyword(s):
180/2.8, just in case the idea tickles you. Explanation below photo. It sharpens up as stopped down, of course.
. . . . https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/26275968925/
I used to have a B&J and now have both a Korona and an Ansco. The Ansco is relatively heavier, but a really nice camera, and stays on a tripod at home or at my shop. It's my favorite for studio, etc....
The unsung hero of my 5x7 kit is the very tiny 108mm/6.8 Wollensak Extreme WA. Maybe not up to modern specs around the edges, but a friendly lens nevertheless.
...
When I built the bench for my D2V I didn't put in any permanent shelves, and mounted the column to a solid and stiff narrow shelf at the back of the top made by gluing several layers of 3/4" plywood...
I used to use my Oly OM-1, 50/3.5 macro, and Pan-X when I didn't want to use Hasselblad and Tri-X. Functionally equal. That macro was a phenomenal lens.
I have metol from about 35 years ago that I still use and it's fine. It's even picked up a light brown cast through time, but doesn't seem to matter. D23 is generally a flat developer anyway, which...
All other questions aside, a few years ago I saw an exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago of a photographer who made large prints (20x24 or larger?) using both inkjet and traditional methods....
This. The whole point of split development is to exhaust the part A that carries over. When that's done, from that point it's all over.
The first aerial camera is somewhat important in some sense, I would imagine.
I see just a bit of room for more stuff.
I don't currently have a darkroom, but when I did, from about 1965 onwards, I always set the Time-O-Lite to 5 seconds and used a footswitch. It's a real speeder-upper for production.
The threads are small and tight. In my experience (I own five, I think....it's my favorite lens) the lock screw messes them up a bit and that may be what is holding things up. The first time out may...
Totally agree.
I once tried to build a "Verito" that way and it was a disaster. Tried just switching out the front lens on mine and that was a disaster too.
The rainbow chart is silly bad.
You...
OP hasn't really made it clear what he's looking for. Initially it seemed like he wanted a normal lens with pleasing rendering, but it's drifted over to overtly soft focus lenses. OP, what are you...
Really like this one!
Yeah. Gutted my SF to make something better. Most unspecial lens ever, IMO:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/16945855792/in/dateposted/
210 mm isn't as long as it might seem. This is a 210 mm Paragon from about 5 feet:. https://www.flickr.com/photos/mdarnton/12154146424/in/dateposted/
Opinion? Definitely the Xenar or any other f/4.5 Tessar formula lens, for their smooth rendering of nearbyout of focus areas such as hair and ears.
No need to buy a modern lens for this... An old...
Give this one a look... https://www.photopea.com/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/26769483286/
You might also find the thread linked in my Flickr post interesting.
I'd put the box on strips and forget the wax paper. And be sparing with the glue!
If you're looking for stability, have you considered 1x1 strips of wood on all of the inside joints, glued and screwed, rather than dowels? Dowels aren't that strong, and you run the risk of light...
I have used reading glasses, also. Another strategy that works but makes the hood non-folding is to drop in a Cambo straight viewing hood. Sorry, I could only find the 90 degree one in pictures...
Regarding keeping the standards straight: they might get off every time you open the camera, but the knobs should be spring loaded--pull the knob out and it disengages the gears allowing you to...
Yes. If the sharp image is in the same plane as the scratch when you move your head they will stay together. Otherwise they move relative to each other because they are different distances away....
I knew I'd find a photo somewhere. Here's what people are talking about for front drop via tilting, second photo on the page:...
The Palmer is back open, too, after being closed for a couple of years!
CC today...
226141
I don't know if this has been covered already, but I just stopped in this morning. They had a flood in the temporary space, so as of a week ago they are rushed back into their original...
One thing that is probably going on is that at 1:1 you are using only the very center of the field of the lens which is where simple lenses are the best.
Check out the camera in the lead photo of Financial Times Ukraine article!
https://www.ft.com/content/d0ad583c-a5a6-4a70-97c9-428606300a96
Edit....
Phooey.. link was OK but now it's a paywall....
Sell the 250SF and that is the best way to raise the total quality of your collection. Then if you want a soft lens, buy a real one.
And the thing no one seems to have mentioned: facial distortion. It works both ways, with lenses that are too wide AND lenses that are too long.
A nicely-illustrated discussion of that topic:...
By the traditional metric for portrait lenses, film length + film width, 9" would be ideal, but that's just a guide. I use 210 mm.
Given that it will make swings and tilts more wonky than they already might be, depending on your camera, I'd take it off.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/26769483286/in/dateposted-public/
I bought a 250SF Fujinon, didn't like it at all, so I gutted it and use a two-element achromatic on the back filter...
Go to the hardware store and buy a short piece of brass tubing that fits tightly in the hose, then squish the end down flattish so that the exit is a slit rather than a round hole. That will raise...
I use D23 1:7 for xray film. That would solve your problem but I haven't tried it that dilute with regular film. When it quits it doesn't slow down it stops dead, so you need to stay safely clear of...
I have way too many holders--dozens--because I bought cheap and couldn't resist, and consequently I have mostly wood, with zero problems. I can say, however, that a beat up old wood holder is a lot...
As an electric model most likely that is a #5 and only offers time exposure, not instantaneous.
A tessar-formula from a solid company with great performing lenses? I'm going to bet that it's pretty good if you like Tessars. They're not for everyone.