I was sitting at the coffee shop with Marcos and the "mysterious unnamed founder/mountaineer/photographer" as they discussed some business deals. I've known Marcos for a number of years. He invited...
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I was sitting at the coffee shop with Marcos and the "mysterious unnamed founder/mountaineer/photographer" as they discussed some business deals. I've known Marcos for a number of years. He invited...
Nothing to do with Hugo, but he is absolutely affiliated with Chamonix. The IG account is not grey market. He has full blessing from Chamonix's owner to sell the cameras.
If it is Marcos that you are dealing with on IG, I can say that he is 100% legit and an upstanding guy. I've known him personally for many years.
I tried this and found that not seeing light with my eyes does not equate to light tight. Turns out film is more sensitive than my eyes ;)
Since it's a 300mm, it will be plenty bright even though it's f9 (I have one, love it) The brightness of a lens on ground glass is more affected by the angle of the light hitting it, so a 75mm f9...
Reticulation looks like cracks, think dried mudbed, not likes stretches. And reticulation is really quite difficult to induce with modern films. I've done 15'C temp shifts and not been able to get it...
All of the shots that I have posted are with Fuji green. Its called Super HR-UC
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Chamonix 4x5, fuji 135mm f5.6, xray film, led flashlight.
I 3d printed some. Dirt cheap.
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There are all Fuji x-ray developed in HC110
There is no problem with blue, I was just curious.
As for what is the goal of obtaining a negative, so that I can make an enlargement. The final print is the goal to me, the negative is the road...
The problem I see with doing reversal is that the film base is not clear, its blue. So if the goal is to show the positive as the final image, it's not a B&W picture, but a mostly blue picture.
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Thanks you, I use HC110 1:70 for 6 minutes at 20'C using constant rotation.
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I did this with a Chamonix and a fuji 135mm. It's slightly larger than 1:1, probably closer to 2:1
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Messing around with some macros and an LED flashlight. Wanted to see how the fuji green handled it before using it for portraits. Worked quite well.
I don't have a sp-445, but from what I gather, the film touches the holder on one side, or at least comes extremely close to doing so, correct? This spells disaster. I use a jobo tank that holds 6...
I built my 10x12 using extruded aluminum and wood scraps in my apartment. It's a tailboard design and way to heavy to be portable, but it has been a fine portrait camera. The largest expense was the...
Do the flash/triggers have a PC sync? Are your lenses mounted in modern shutters with a PC sync? If so, then yes. It will work just fine.
To me this doesn't look like a problem of having the film reversed. That tends to show up as overly orange shots. Could be developing related. You mention B's reel. What is that? Don't give up yet.
Not sure what your problem is, but it seems that you want to discourage or make this as complicated as possible. Isn't photography supposed to be fun? Anyway, I know that my tri-colors are not...
Haha that is exactly the film I used for my 4x5 shots. It worked just fine.
Maybe I got lucky, but the wine bottle and flower shot were my FIRST attempt at this process. It's really not that difficult if you already have film photography down.
Here's my try at this. The pencils and hammer were 4x5 and the bottle and flowers were 35mm. Both using the same RGB filters. Just some cheap square ebay color filters with no markings or color...
Using that holder in the tray is not going to help you at all with scratching. The film will sag and still touch the bottom of the tray and it just adds extra steps (loading and unloading the holder)...
I quite enjoy my kodak enlarging ektar 125mm. Here is a shot on 4x5, Not sure what the magnification is, but I filled the frame with the watch (39mm)
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Expired Fuji Pro160, Chamonix 4x5, achromat 216mm f3.5
If it was me, I'd fill the holes and re-drill. That will be the cleanest and easiest on your fingers. Manually filing sounds like a literal pain.
Despite what others have told me in the past (it won't work, it will be uneven, it will be too hard to control) I use a canon ex550 flash pointed at the ceiling on 1/32 power. Most negatives need 3...
It looks like the glass is missing.
I've used a couple medical supply stores that I found on Taobao. It's pretty easy to find, don't recall the actual names of the shops. The few that I contacted had no problem selling single boxes.
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A couple from last week. Both were shot on fuji xray film cut down to 4x5. The lady is with a sironar 210, the boy is with a diy achromat 216.
In China, xray by traditional xray film is still king. Even at the "high end" western hospitals here in Beijing. I don't see it going away any time soon.
Turns out that yes. Many many people have this problem regardless of if they have 16 or 64 gb of ram. It's software, not your hardware that is the problem.
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Technically you can, but you will be getting into funky sized ears and noses if you are going for a tight portrait. You could try to get a tophat lensboard for your 300. That could give you some...
I highly disagree, for photo editing, 16 gb is more than enough. Recommending 64 as a minimum is absurd.
Wow, I was at that same church two years ago!
I very much agree with this. In my case, the local labs charge $10 per sheet to develop and scan. It doesn't take long to exceed the cost of a decent scanner, 3 boxes of film and you are already more...
If I sent my stuff out for processing, I'd be broke long before I learned anything. Developing is dead easy and you can shoot 5 times as much for the same costs. You'll learn much quicker.
Sounds about right, I have been shooting it in 4x5 for a few years (probably 1000 sheets at this point) and I settled on 50 iso working well for me.
HK has quite a few LF guys. It's a wonderful place to shoot.