I would like to put some of my 4x5 b&w images online. I have an “old” Epson Perfection 2450 scanner. I haven’t been able to make it work with my Windows 11 PC; apparently there are no drivers...
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I would like to put some of my 4x5 b&w images online. I have an “old” Epson Perfection 2450 scanner. I haven’t been able to make it work with my Windows 11 PC; apparently there are no drivers...
I mix Photo-Flo in distilled water and keep it in a glass bottle and use it multiple times. Before using I hold the bottle up to a light and swish it around. If it’s completely clear it’s ok to use...
I just started on a new box of 4x5 Kodak TXP and these sheets of film are missing the usual edge marking “Kodak TXP 320”. Is this the new normal or an anomaly? The images seem fine. Should I be...
Yes. I’m on a well and have a “whole house” 5 micron filter. It catches an amazing amount of grit. Still, some gets through. I have two faucets in the darkroom; the one hooked up to my film and print...
Got the Peak magnifier today and tried it vs the Bestwell. The Peak is far easier to see the grain, brighter and clearer.
One advantage of the Bestwell though is it’s much taller, making it easier...
I’m in Montpelier
Thanks folks. I found a used Peak at Catlabs, it will arrive this week.
I’ve been using the same grain focuser for decades; a Bestwell Microsight III. Lately I’m finding that I need more magnifying power, especially with small prints from 4x5 Tmax negatives. Yes I do...
Ohaus digital scale and plastic Dixie cups make weighing quick and accurate. Mixing your own is less expensive and more dependable. Artcraft is great and they have everything I need except Glycin,...
When the new HC-110 started crystallizing in the bottle I switched to mixing my own D-76H. I had already switched to mixing my own paper developers when a bag of Dektol turned brown. Now the only...
What I really liked about HC-110 was the convenience of being able to mix a stronger batch to increase contrast while keeping the developing time down to a reasonable level. But after a third bottle...
I did check two tests straight after the fix, and there were no spots. But the effect has been very random. Some sheets have no spots, some just a few, and some have a lot.
I can’t think of any...
Update: It’s the bubbles in the print washer causing holes in the emulsion. I exposed a sheet of TXP to a grey card at Zone V. Processed it in a tube (I use both BTZS tubes and trays), HC-110, stop,...
I’ve been getting small clear spots on my 4x5 B&W negatives. It happens with TMX and TXP films, developed with HC-110 and D-23. I use distilled water for everything but the wash.
The spots are...
Got it, thanks
Anyone have an f/stop printing chart in pdf format you’re willing to share?
The best adhesive for acrylic is acrylic cement. Weld-On 4 is “water thin”. Apply a small amount along a tightly fitting joint and capillary action pulls the cement throughout the joint. For...
After continuing to experiment with different developer formulas I finally clenched my teeth, bought some glycin, and tried the Ansco 130 formula. Problem solved! Diluted 1+2 I’m able to get plenty...
Not sure how to go about doing this. I have a good negative of a thundercloud. I’d like to make a high contrast negative of something in silhouette - a bare tree perhaps. My idea is to print the...
I’ve been using the F-6 fixer formula, with half the recommended amount of alum, for a long time. I like it because I can barely smell it. I’ve read that prints will tone & wash better without any...
Wow it’s been decades since I’ve done any flashing. I’ll try it.
I am happy to report however that using a soft developer, or divided developer, works quite well. Classic paper developed in Ansco...
The Zone VI unit has two light grids.
I have not tried a filter. Wouldn’t a green filter work better to reduce contrast?
Yes, switching to split printing was my first impulse, and I did a lot of work that way. It’s not really ideal, for me, as I like to burn with intermediate grades. Figuring this out with split...
I have a Zone VI Type II VC enlarger. To achieve a “normal” or “grade 2” print with a normal full scale negative on Ilford Cooltone or Classic, I have to turn the contrast controls almost all the way...
Yes a footswitch is very helpful.
This brings up a question that’s been nagging me for quite a while.
My first two enlarger setups, for graded papers, used a footswitch with a tik-tock...
Yes Doremus, it is threaded. Took stronger light to see it. I’ve screwed it back together and the glass is no longer loose. I’d like to screw it in a little tighter to make sure it’s secure but...
No, the inner ring snaps in. But it’s not really fitting very tightly. It’s staying together but seems like it could easily come apart again
I dropped a brand new B&W 82mm yellow filter on the floor. The inner and outer rings came apart and incredibly the filter is undamaged. I pressed it all back together but the glass is now loose...
I recently switched to using the S11 bulbs from superbrightleds. They’re very bright. I bounce them off the ceiling, which is white and rather low. First I tested two amber bulbs with Ilford MGFB...
Thank you. My switch setup matches your description. I’m relieved to hear that I can pull the switch out without having to disassemble the head. Sounds like there might be enough wire length to work...
The power switch in the head of my Zone VI Type II enlarger just stopped working. Fortunately it’s stuck in the “on” position, so I can still use it with a switched power strip. Has anyone ever tried...
Thanks Richard, I found them on the McMaster Carr site. Can you tell me which one I need? The switch I have, which has worked fine for 25 years, is the momentary type that springs back
I’ve been having an intermittent issue with the footswitch.
In normal operation, turning on the power to the timer turns on the display at 0:00, where it waits. Pressing and releasing the...
I got scratches using the 4x5 black tubes. I think they were caused by sliding the film into and out of the tubes. Although I never found that these scratches affected print quality, it made me...
I use it 1:10 for 2-8 minutes, keeping an untoned print handy for reference
So the "RTCAL" on the right is real time calibration, and "PCAL" on the left is the compensation factor, thank you.
I actually have two of these timers. Timer B is my original one, which went...
My zone vi compensating developer timer is running too fast at higher temperatures. It works well enough from about 66F to 70F. Inside the unit there are two adjustment screws labeled PCAL and RTCAL....
I’m working on some close-up images with 4x5. Any recommendations on a free depth of field calculator for iphone?
The new formula does not keep as well as the old syrup. I opened a bottle of the new stuff a few months ago, used about half of it, and now find that the remainder has formed crystals in it. I tried...