Pictorially, 300mm is very short for 14x17 portraits, some would say too short for 8x10. But you're quite right that 14x17 coverage at infinity isn't necessary for 14x17portraiture.
Type: Posts; User: Mark Sawyer; Keyword(s):
Pictorially, 300mm is very short for 14x17 portraits, some would say too short for 8x10. But you're quite right that 14x17 coverage at infinity isn't necessary for 14x17portraiture.
Rock the plate as you drain the collodion off, so it doesn't all flow in the same direction. The phenomenon is called "corduroy lines".
If measuring the aperture is difficult in your usual situation, just make a chart of the aperture sizes at the standard f/stops. Say you have a 210mm lens; at f/5.6, divide 210mm by 5.6, your actual...
Or...
You can measure the bellows extension and aperture and divide to find your actual f/stop.
It's in the name "f/stop".
"f" means "focal length"
"/" means "divided by", (or in...
Presuming the same focal length and aperture, the depth of field will be the same across all designs, old or new.
300mm f/4.5 Tessar, perfect for 5x7 portraiture, traditionally a little short for 8x10 portraiture, but you can pick up a longer lens later. Coated is better, and you don't need a shutter. The...
I'm not into grain, but if I were, I think I'd try temperature-shock reticulation.
But could a million monkeys photographing with a million 8x10 view cameras for a million years replicate the portfolios of Ansel Adams?
I think we're working on it...
"The infinite monkey theorem states that a monkey hitting keys at random on a typewriter keyboard for an infinite amount of time will almost surely type any given text, including the complete works...
I've always admired Adams' photographic work, but I think I could best him at martinis.
That's why people using the Zone System use spot-meters.
#2 answers #1. Most images require normal exposure and processing, so yes, just follow the meter and standard processing instructions. The Zone System is for improving the negative's printability in...
Remember that calculating the f/stop means measuring from the rear nodal point of the lens to the focal point. On telephoto lenses, the rear nodal point is in front of the lens, while on...
Yes. You've concentrated the same amount of light in a smaller area, regardless of focus.
Okay, here's probably the simplest method for math-o-phobics:
Close down the aperture of your lens to 1 centimeter wide, measured through the front element. Put a little mark on your aperture...
I agree with John, buy one lens to start. Everyone should have a "normal" lens, so start with 300mm, then see whether it seems too long or short for your needs.
If you want a second lens right...
It should be noted that all these lenses are f/9 maximum aperture, (well, f/8.5 for the Fuji).
Keep in mind that whatever used camera you buy, if you get it at a fair price, you can resell it at a fair price if it doesn't work out. New cameras will lose some value when they become used, which...
I have a few 8x10s, including a Master View which is my hiking 8x10. It weighs about 12 pounds, about the same as a Deardorff or 2D. Considering the weight of the rest of the equipment needed...
Can anyone speak further to working with reciprocity failure during multiple strobe pops?
Looks like a home-made 11x14.
Having the soft image from focus shift overlaid on the sharp image is the whole point of the Imagon.
To quote from the Rodenstock's instructions online at:...
Not according to Kuhn, and his method makes sense if you want a sharp image with a soft overlay. Focus for the sharp image for the central aperture, then add the soft effect from the peripheral...
It should be noted that the technique for focusing the Imagon with h/stops is very different than for other soft focus lenses with conventional f/stops. With the Imagon, you focus on the sharp image...
Really, I'm not trying to start trouble, but... umm...
You know, the Fujinon L-Series Tessar lenses are really, really nice...
If you really want a complete "Fuji Kit", I think you need all of...
There is no such thing as "bellows extension factor". All those calculations are just a work-around for not being able to figure out your f/stop at any focusing distance other than infinity.
It's...
Let's face it. We just can't help ourselves...
Okay, serious points for that one!
A haiku for large format photographers:
I'll buy no lenses.
I have enough already.
Oh, a Cooke Portrait...
The light reflecting off the spinner is directional, though.
"How have you shopped for lenses over the years?"
Constantly...
Yep, I'd suspect that shiny spinner.
I've heard the exposure with the fan should be 6 times or 8 times the original exposure. The big variable will be compensating for reciprocity failure, which varies from film to film, at these...
Another possible option. Perhaps. Put a +3 diopter on an f/4.5 300mm lens. That would give you (approximately) a 160mm f/2.3. There might be some aberrations, but they might be interesting.
One of my favorite photographic peccadilloes is often found in old photography textbooks, where the author has included an array of images of the same scene but printed at different contrasts from...
An air bulb is just a rubber bulb you can squeeze to blow air out, in this case through a hose leading to the fan. Blow air on the fan and it spins.
And I'm not interested in a new Hypergon as I...
If you look, the trees aren't quite vertical. The needed movements would have put them slightly out-of-focus, so I just let the lens do what it does. It's remarkable that it can stay rectilinear at...
Here are a few older images made with the 75mm Hypergon on 8x10. I haven't used it much, but hope to get back to it as time allows...
In the original Hypergon, the lens elements were so close together that there wasn't room for both aperture and shutter blades between them. Those Hypergons could only be mounted in a Volute...