The thing about the new Ilford MGFB paper is the emulsion is very tough. Actually it's 3 different layers and it will take two weeks in a tray before it softens enough to come off. Also the 8x10...
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The thing about the new Ilford MGFB paper is the emulsion is very tough. Actually it's 3 different layers and it will take two weeks in a tray before it softens enough to come off. Also the 8x10...
I like glass top and Botton. 1/4 or 3/8-inch tempered (or laminated - how cool was that windshield!) . You have to be able to keep the surfaces absolutely clean, otherwise a tiny grain of dust will...
I like glass top and Botton. 1/4 or 3/8-inch tempered (or laminated - how cool was that windshield!) . You have to be able to keep the surfaces absolutely clean, otherwise a tiny grain of dust will...
I struggled looking for the right word. It's not really damp, it's drier than damp.....If you slide a dry finger across the emulsion of a dry print then maybe it's the next perceptible point of 'less...
I posted the same question, in February... after getting back into B&W photography with Ilford fiber based paper. Here's what works for me: First squeegee your prints, then blot them to make sure...
Thanks Drew
That matte finish ink I posted a picture of is excellent, it os barely distinguishable in a bright side light, let alone straight on. So far I'm pleased with that on the prints I am...
[QUOTE=Michael R;1689218]Unfortunately this is one of those things you have to determine empirically. We all perceive tones/colours differently, the papers have changed, etc.
Yes exactly, salt to...
[QUOTE=Drew Wiley; 'When I want warm, I like the effect of sulfide Brown Toner better.'
What are you using for sulfide brown toner? A quick search yielded all out of stock.
UPDATE: I found...
As usual, good information, Thanks! I followed this thread because I'm still trying to replicate the look of the old Gallery paper in 54-D developer and F24 fix. (kind of greenish color) and then...
Yes Potassium Bromide, that's what I meant, but I typed Bi. Is someone using both together... does that even work?
pool dechlorinator
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Are you adding Benzat. to developer that already had KBI in it? How's that work?
All this talk about paper and toning and not a mention of fixer..... just sayin,' fixer adds tone, depending on its 'livery'.
I know what you are eluding to with the bridge, but what are you saying? That I will buy anything? That internet chemicals are trash? Help me understand.
Yes. I've been through 30 pounds of 'pool dechlorinator' and all is good. Silver and hypo tests are all good.
How does the surface reflection look when you look at it on an angle? That's the problem I have with Grumbacher water-retouch colors.
Excellent news! I'm doing prints for a museum. THANKS!!
Thanks for the explanation....Kodak; I should have known!
240994
I've been experimenting with this, you can dilute it with water and the matte finish dries really nice, but it's not archival.
Thanks Michael
yes eBay is scary, but this stuff is professionally packaged and has been 100%.... so far ;-)
Are you mixing in an opaque container? Try Mixing in a clear beaker and see what happens. Metol tints it a little but then the tint goes away with the sulfite.
If you're just starting back at it, why not try develop and inspect them with a green light as you go?
Like the title says:
So how can, say Kodak Dektol developer, come with all the powdered chemicals in one packet, and yet instructions for mixing your own Dektol always say to 'mix in order'
Why...
You can fold a dark opaque shirt to make it a dark bag. Then Insert your hands up through the sleeves
I've used stick ink mixed with gum arabic on the old Gallery paper but on the new stuff it has the wrong sheen. What's better?.... and available!
Thx
I buy Hypo from Cesco on eBay. It's labeled for Pool DeChlorination but it; ls also photo grade. Around $35 for 10pounds shipped free. Sodium Carbonate and metabisulfite come from Duda Energy also on...
vacuum sealed bags for the freezer. I used to separate 100 sheets into 10 sheet packs and suck the air out of them with a food vacuum sealer.
Have you tried Wet Scanning? It';s time consuming but I love the way my 6x7 stuff comes out. Especially old chromes!
Nice images but I am missing the direction of your post.
I've been gone for almost 30 years and NOTHING has changed! ;-)
The Ilford Multigrade filters fit right in my D2 upper condenser housing ;-). and so do my old Cibachrome filters.......
What is everyone missing? I am NOT trying to keep this print or do anything other than float the emulsion off. I wanted to see if the paper without the emulsion dries any differently than a normal...
Ilford Multigrade Fiber based paper won't sherd its emulsion, no matter what! Is this a good thing?
https://youtu.be/xmdhOlZ_p8U
I've been buying from the Formulary for years, but lately I've been shopping around. eBay seems to have some good options with free shipping, which when I but 30 or 40 pounds of 'stuff' at a time...
Ahh! that will work! ;-)
Me? I was a Fuji guy, but either way, somehow, with fresh E-6 chemicals, an image always looked best. Then print one on Cibachrome .....
I was thinking agitation too
Doesn't anyone use 4x5 hangars in a deep tank? Is there a better way? In a tray the negative is in contact with the bottom. With reels there is bending and friction.
Here's a video I put on my You Tube Channel about the process I use and my way of figuring this out:
https://youtu.be/NTkqgG-NuWU
Yes I know it: 'When we dont learn from our mistakes we are destined to repeat them'............. that one?