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Maybe the issue is one of semantics. I don't quite understand what you mean by a split toned print, with neutral highlights, and minimal colour shift.

If you're using a bleach/redevelopment...

Congratulations you guys!! Would a ridiculously awesome project!!

It's not surprising, at all. Juergen is a brilliant and a wonderful guy. He personally replaced the 12x16" and 8x10" heads in my...

I've used weak dilutions of potassium ferricyanide to brighten highlights before. I typically prefer to dilute my rehalogenizing bleach, perform the bleach application, then fix, hypoclear, selenium...

Just to clarify, are you looking to achieve a split through selenium alone, or a combination of selenium and bleach/redevelopment in sepia toner? How much of a colour shift are looking for? And what...

One quick comment: your developing time will augment colour. Shorter=warmer vs longer=cooler. If you're looking to cool down the image I would use a developing time 5+ minutes. I've used a developing...

Sandy, I never would have arrived at this conclusion were it not for all of your and Steve Sherman's guidance on film development. It can be a maddening process of trying to reverse engineer the...

Hi John...Sorry if I misunderstood your post. Perhaps I don't understand what your concern was/is? As long as the base stain is even, my thought is that it's all useful image stain because your...

If you test and discover a faster method I'd love to know what that is. I'm sure there would be variance with different film formats and, of course, you could agitate the presoak bath more...

Hi Steve,

I conducted this testing with either "Ansel Adams test negs" exposed to Zone VI or VII or with scenes where blue cloudless sky occupied at least 2/3 of the image. The test negs were then...

The 20 min time was based on throwing an unexposed sheet of film - 8x10 or 11x14 Tri-X, FP4, and/or HP5 - into a tray of water and rocking it every minute until all layers are removed. You'll have a...

Sure thing.



Hi Sandy,

I'm really glad that turned out to be valuable info after all the help you and others have given me over the years. The long presoak with agitation eliminated a...

No prob...if I can figure out a way of attaching a vid clip of the agitation method I'll get that up too.

Sure thing...

Attached are a few pictures of a the tubes I use. They're made from black PVC. I made the prototypes myself but then had a plastics welder fabricated the caps - the original caps...

First off, be aware that by increasing Part B, temperature and/or using more aggressive agitation methods you'll also increase the overall density of your negs. Additional stain will inevitably come...

If you find that you need to harness your contrast/subject brightness range to a fine point, I would use Pyrocat divided. I've managed to reign in some wicked contrast with that methodology - like 14...

+1

I'm not sure to be honest. I have everything mounted by Hieu at the Lab in Vancouver. He's about the only person I trust with mounting my stuff. They're fantastic.

All of the prints I make are dried in a tented drying rack that has one or two humidifiers placed inside (not the kind that produces steam). After being carried by its corners out the tray (I don't...

Beyond using a horizontal enlarger, there are several ways to process silver gelatin roll paper, the largest of which - to my knowledge - is 56" wide. It also comes in 50" and 42" wide as well. All...

I presoak my paper for a good 5 to 10 minutes, drain, affix with a weight at the top of the paper and then apply the poured developer. I've also found that fixing times tend to be longer using a...

I might be concerned about adequate washing. I process my prints in a very similar manner as you describe, pouring my chemicals over the print where they're returned to me through a system of ABS...

If sanding doesn't do the trick you can also pour acetone very carefully into your tubes and pour out immediately. It will start to melt the plastic and leave you with a really smooth surface.

When I develop my film in BTZS-style tubes I always one-shot the developer. I'm using Pyrocat.

The viability of being a printer really depends on market demand, which may be difficult to determine off the hop. As some people have alluded, you might have to do some leg work and put yourself out...

Thanks Bob, great stuff.

Totally your prerogative.

When I used gas burst it was recommended by several people to use nitrogen and not compressed air. I can't remember the explanation.

Hi Randy,

Alistair Inglis is a wonderful fellow who makes gas burst systems and he may be of some help to you: http://www.alistairinglis.com/

Best,

Michael

I'd love to see some pictures or diagrams of your process and some examples of your work as well. It sounds really interesting. The largest prints that I've been able to make are 53x69 inches image...

With my one-tray process, I have the ability to either keep the tray flat and plug the draining holes with two rubber based plugs, or I can tilt the far end of the tray at a slight angle, remove the...

I use Nymoc as well. They've been fantastic.

I found that using a gutter underneath and several holes along the bottom of one end of the tray allowed for the chemistry to return to me faster and for the tray to drain much quicker during washing...

Wow, that was an amusing twist to the thread...lol ~shaking head~

Back to making big prints.....

Another tip for printing big is that in order to get your prints to dry flat, humidity is the...

Sorry, I didn't mean to provoke a discussion about Ilford's papers and sidetrack the OP's thread. It was only meant as a point of reference because printing larger becomes a different animal with...

Hi Steve,

I've focused my work on making large prints, the largest of which has an image size of 53"x68-70" archivally processed and toned with sepia, gold and selenium.

I have a large table...

I get all my roll paper from either B&H Photo or Fred at the View Camera Store.



Ilford's Classic and Cooltone (glossy) papers definitely mottle at larger sizes. It was explained to me - by...

Hi Steve, your two cents are much appreciated!

I've also found that the selenium treatment before the thiocarbamide provokes a slight colour response towards the brown/red. In the case of the...

Thanks, Thomas.

Hi everyone,

I'm wondering if it's necessary to fix in between sepia and gold if I'm fixing after the gold toner? I'm unclear after reading Tim Rudman's discourse and several other posts on this...

That sounds like a fantastic project! I only wish that more art schools and universities would teach students the mechanics of printing large prints. I would have loved to do a crit like that!!
...

Very welcome! There are several advantages to the Heiland LED cold light source beyond faster exposures. Your ability to manipulate exposures by going in between paper grades and to adjust your power...