I am not sure what Sal means by "carefree" processing and I am sure the numbers that he is quoting must come from some Kodak information but those numbers are very conservative. I use the BTZS...
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I am not sure what Sal means by "carefree" processing and I am sure the numbers that he is quoting must come from some Kodak information but those numbers are very conservative. I use the BTZS...
I recall John Sexton advising that you should always use full batches of film. But what if you don't have a full batch of film to develop? A completely exposed sheet of film is equal to 2 normally...
Maybe this is why it is The Art of Photography.
If I am understanding right, your prints are being dulled during the mounting process. I like my prints to have a nice gloss look. When they don't have the shine that I like, I will treat the...
I use a Pentax Digital Spot meter and my numbers go to 21.? I think. So I will guess that you are talking about an anolog meter. There should be a button for High range and Low range. I think it...
Just a brief comment. I can only speak for the T-Max films because that is what I have experience using. Recently I demonstrated for some students that this talk of fixing to get rid of the pink or...
Phil, How many rolls are you interested in processing? I used to buy Kodak's 5 gallon batches, which brought the cost down to below $2.00 a roll. Using the Developers and reversal baths one shot...
Well, in my experience with 4x5, most lens won't need more than a 5 degree tilt. 1 or 2 degrees is more the norm. I tend to take a guess at the tilt needed and then use the technique outlined on...
One question for you Roger. How many degrees of tilt are you giving your lens?
What developer are you using?
You might try what I like to call the poor mans JOBO. The BTZS Tubes. I use them and like them very much.
One thing that I might mention. A 135 lens must be mounted on a cone that extends the lens down several inches from the bellows. If it is mounted in a flat lens board you will never get it to focus.
I would suggest that you fix your negatives longer. I assume that you are using T-Max 100, with a rapid fix you will normally need about a 6 minute fix time. This will not get rid of the pink...
I would like to make a quick comment for the people using the JOBO reels for developing their sheet film. I used that set up for several years and thought that I was pretty good at processing film....
I like the BTZS tubes for processing sheet film. Even development, and being able to control the development of each negative individually are a couple of their strong points. You can find more ...
If you are looking for a workshop, Stu Levy is one of the best teachers that I have encountered. He is from Portland, Oregon and I believe that he has workshops based around the Oregon coast. You...
Jason, just a point of clarification. James wrote>>A.A. visualized "Clearing Winter Storm" and developed the neg to print it just the way he visualized it.<< Meaning just what you said, that Ansel...
Here is the Summitek version mentioned above. The Slosher!
I know this is not the answer that you want. I have been using LF for 15 years, I stopped trying to use charts more than 10 years ago. No matter how sharp your pencil you can not take all of the...
I was wondering if anyone has seen John Sexton's new book Places of Power and wh at your thought of it. I just received several copies yesterday to give out as C hristmas presents and must say that I...
I would advise getting on his mailing list and maybe in January call his office and ask about the workshop that you are interested in attending. Exact dates and that sort of thing. When you...
I prefer Ed Westons view on dust, leave it alone and it will leave you alone. I aggree that an occassional good cleaning is needed but once you stir up dust it can take days to settle back down.
John Sexton's current starting recommendatin for T-Max 400 in a JOBO with T-Max RS 1:9 at 75 degrees is EI 320 for 7.75 minutes and rotation setting on 3 1/2. John's figures are for 4x5 but I...
You seem to discount that Ansel is human and has all of the faults that come with that. In my readings of Ansel's work he does make mention of other artists works that inspired particular images....
Wasn't Cteins article at least partly disproven by a gentleman that showed that this focus shift was caused by focusing changes in your eye to different colors. He maintained that you focus your...
I do want to disagree with James that "all" long exposures need a reduction in development. When I first started doing long exposures I also believed this to be true ( not that James is...
I received a postcard last summer from them saying that the end of August would be when they were closing their business.
You are using B&W so why not use the aperature that works best and then extend your exposure time to give a good exposure. I often shoot under similar conditions in my home with an ordinary 100...
Doug, I have used this approach for the last 10 years, ever since John Sexton helped to save an exposure the he said would other wise not turn out. I was photographing in the same location as his...
I do not have any experience with the Minolta spot meter but I do with the Sekonic and Pentax. The Sekonic is a much more sopisticated meter. It meters normal reflected light and flash both corded...
I can effectively get a N-2 development from a rotary processor. For more contraction than that it is necessary to go to a tray where the agitation can be controlled. John Sexton does like the...
Check out the BTZS Film Tubes here. I really like them. Have fun.
One comment, if you read Harold Merlingers books on focus he talks about the idea fo things being acceptably identifialbe from the focus point back to the camera when your f/stop is smaller that...
If you get the papmplet that Kodak has on T-Max films you will see that the 1:9 mix for T-Max RS is also a recommended dilution. The development times are also longer but there is a little more...
To answer Tuan's question near the top. You receive a lot of e-mail and when the topic is intersting that is ok. I was part of another LF mail list and sometimes it would two people communicating...
1. The average gradients for your question= .54 for N, .46 for N-1 and .67 for N+1. This is figured using the traditional zone placements as outlined in "The Negative". Some people figure using ...
You need to make contrast corrections both at the level of making the negative and while making the print. One of the biggest misconceptions about the zone system is that because you are ...
I agree with your basic approach and use this same method for focussing. I use less than 1 mm as f/16, 1.5 mm as f/22, 3 mm as f/32, 5.5 mm as f/45 and 11 mm as f/64. I agree with the goal of ...
I am not aware of anyone that specializes in this kind of equipment for general photography use. I have their contact printing frame and and pin registration system. Seemed expensive at the time...
Their phone number is (203) 426-4119 but you better hurry. I have just received a postcard from them saying that they are closing at the end of August.