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  1. Re: Scratch on negative, how to remove defect from print?

    Curse, weep, and make sure it doesn't happen with the next negative.
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    Re: Uva alt print box

    This makes sense particularly for units that emit a broad spectrum of (UV) light such as old-fashioned gas discharge bulb plate burners. However, for UV-A tubes and leds, the safety issues are of...
  3. Thread: old film

    by koraks
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    Re: old film

    Depends a bit on what film and paper it is. I assume for the film it's B&W. You mention Ilford, which makes either FP4 or HP5 the most likely candidates. Not sure if the + variants already existed...
  4. Re: C41 Accidentally added too much water to the Blix mixing

    It'll likely work OK, but it will be slightly slower and have slightly less capacity. So perhaps use a bit more margin with Blix times and number of rolls/sheets processed. I wouldn't sweat it though.
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    Re: New to me printing issue

    This. If you're sure focus was right on in one place, check the alignment of your enlarger.
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    Re: Color contact printing

    90 seconds for final prints, but for test strips often only 20-30 seconds.
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    Re: Color contact printing

    There's a small difference in filtration at lower temperatures, but adjusted for this, prints are indistinguishable. Development is pretty much to completion, but just like with b&w paper, the margin...
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    Re: Color contact printing

    A hairdryer works quite well to dry a test strip within a few seconds. Squeegee first, then blast with hot air.

    Trays of course limit the size at which you can print conveniently. I don't go...
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    Re: Color contact printing

    I find trays the most convenient personally. No temperature condition necessary, just do it all at room temperature with extended processing time. 90 seconds development does it for me. Drums are too...
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    Re: Mammography film

    Usually green, so sort of orthochromatic. It seems to be disappearing from the market currently. I have no experience with the particular film you mentioned.
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    Re: Color contact printing

    Color paper sensitivity, translated to film terms, would be somewhere around 12 iso or so. Faster than b&w paper, slower than typical film.

    Exposure times vary wildly depending on the negative,...
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    Re: Color contact printing

    Depends on how you define 'right away', but I don't see how you're going to get the right exposure and a decent color balance if you don't print more or less immediately. You don't know how to adjust...
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    Re: Fomapan 100, 200 and 400

    Daniel, it sounds like you're in the process of finding out why Fomapan films are just not a very easy choice for low light situations. As you indicated, at some point you get stuck in an endless...
  14. Re: Mounting 4x5 film on 8x10 drum ( Kodak LVT 1010 )

    Yeah, maybe sacrifice a sheet of 8x10 film and use it as a mask. Does the documentation of the LVT mention anything about using 4x5 film with it?
  15. Re: Jobo Expert Sheet Drum OR Mod54 Large Format Film Processor?

    I've never used an expert drum; I use the 25xx drum & reel for 4x5. When I started out with 4x5 I got a Mod54 and used it for a while. It worked OK, but loading it was a bit of a trick and I...
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    Re: What can cause TINY TINY white spots on a neg?

    Mix some fresh fixer and give it another go. Used fixer tends to throw down silver particles under certain conditions and those may stick to/in the emulsion quite firmly.
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    Re: Help with developing results good and bad

    That's probably just halation or light piping.
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    Re: Help with developing results good and bad

    Yes, massive overexposure indeed. By the extent of +8 stops or more I'd wager. An open lens is indeed a possibility. It's too severe even for the "whoops forgot to stop down" thing I'm sure we all...
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    Re: Help with developing results good and bad

    Please post a photograph of the negatives. Not scans. Actual photos (smartphone snapshot is OK).
  20. Re: Tried out Cinestill's new CS6 kit, or how I learned I'm exposing slide wrong (may

    As you noted, exposure is critical for making good transparencies. I personally place important highlights (that need to preserve some color/texture) at +2 2/3 stops, so close to +3 stops, and let...
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    Re: UV bulb in enlarger?

    That's not a valid argument. Copyright emerges at the moment the work is created, and it does not need to be explicitly indicated or filed for it to be present.

    On the other hand, it is an...
  22. Re: Portra 160 x 400 (4X5) mixed up (ay caramba)

    You can tell them apart by their notch codes. Just open the film holders in the dark and feel for the notches. The datasheets of both films include a little picture of the notches. No need to guess...
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    Re: Daylight processing tank for x-ray film

    Anything that touches either side of the film is not a good idea with double-sided x-ray film unless you intend to strip one side of it anyway. So both the Stearman and the 20th Century systems will...
  24. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    Sistan isn't going to do much either. It's also designed to bind to silver grains, so it won't work magic on dyes. The best archival treatment for ra4 paper is thorough blixing followed by a decent...
  25. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    Proper storage conditions; check the datasheet of your RA paper. Dark, cool storage is best. They should last decades that way.
    Selenium toner isn't going to be beneficial in any way.
  26. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    I print from Ektar occasionally. It's not any different from printing other film stocks. Yes of course, color rendition and saturation are specific to Ektar, but each film has its own characteristic....
  27. Re: Is Chrome Alum and Potassium Alum The Same?

    Food grade will be generally potassium alum or otherwise sodium alum. Both should act as a hardener, but you'll need more of it than chrome alum to reach the same degree of hardening, or hardening...
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    Re: Ektachrome 64 Colour Cast

    Did this film come in boxes of 50 sheets with the sheets divided into two packs of 25 each? And if so, am I correct in understanding that you successfully processed the contents of one bag, and are...
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    Re: How do you remove silver nitrate stains?

    It's likely the most valuable concrete slab out there, it being silver plated and all. I'd leave it as it is.
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    Re: Bottle cap liner replacement?

    I find that properly fitting plastic caps on glass bottles are pretty much airtight without an additional liner. Good enough to keep mixed c41 developer good for over 6 months at least.
    Perhaps it...
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Yeah a sulfite bath often clears things up. Good to hear you resolved the issue!
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Definitely looks like antihalation dye. Just wash those negatives again (in a tray) and the stains will likely be gone.

    Ive done 5x7 film in jobo paper drums as well and it works - at least with...
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    Re: Fotospeed Chromium Intensifier

    Wash more when doing the intensifying process, and use a sulfite bath to clear the stain. The latter may work to an extent on your already processed negatives.
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    Re: Fomapan 100, 200 and 400

    Depends a bit, but 100 is a safe compromise for this film in my experience. Whenever shadows aren't critical, I don't hesitate to shoot it at 200. But since I currently only use it in 4x5, which is a...
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    Re: Fixer- sediment layer on bottom?

    I believe I've recently seen more reports of fresh Kodafix concentrate throwing down a precipitate. A very slight sulfur smell is not necessarily problematic. I'd mix some working strength with it,...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    Oh, don't get me wrong; there can be merit in experimenting with the salts. I never noticed improvements over Cl when using Br or I, but I never tested more complex mixes, let alone uncontrolled ones...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    Yeah, and images taken on the seaside should be made using seawater for the salting solution :p

    Seriously - no.
  38. Re: Stearman Press SP-810 Daylight Tray and Pyrocat HD

    Same here, works just fine. The potential drawback is increased oxidation resulting in more general stain, but in practice, this turns out not to be a serious problem.
  39. Re: Stearman Press SP-810 Daylight Tray and Pyrocat HD

    1: 1+1+100 usually, or 1+1+50 occasionally if I need super brutally contrasty negatives
    2: depends on the film and contrast I need!
    3: with tray development, usually 30 seconds initial and then ca...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    I generally use Fomapan (usually 100 or 200) for salted paper prints, developed in either instant mytol (xtol clone) or Pyrocat HD. Rated at box speed and developed twice as long as the charts...
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