Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[photoevangelist]

Do you mean Fuji HR-HA? HR-A doesn't seem to exist in Google.

It is indeed: Fuji HR-A. I was clueless too. I can only find it offered in South Korea. Supposedly it's the same stuff as HR-U but less silver so its cheaper? I don't know. That's what I think the lady told me. Korean isn't my first language.

Perhaps they're testing it here first before releasing it to other parts of the world?

I've seen beautiful stuff on this thread with HR-T, but its not offered here in Korea.

[Corran]

I can't help you because you are way outside my area of knowledge, but these are looking very pretty though Lee!

[William Whitaker]

Trays for 7x17 are far cheaper than are those for 16x20 paper. Buy the green seed starting trays from Park Seed, be sure you get the ones without holes.. Three will cost you around $10-15, if I remember correctly. These are 10x20" trays.

http://parkseed.com/large-perma-nest...domes/p/v1590/

[Jim Noel]

"Do you think that the extra density around the edges might be to do with increased development? This semi-stand method might help with that, since the film is lying on the bottom of the tray for long periods, minimizing the effect of fresh developer ingress to the underside."

How large are your trays? A tray which is too close to the same dimensions as the film can cause over-agitation as the developer sloshes against the the edge of the tray. I use 10x20" trays for 7x17" film and agitate rather gently in order to prevent this.

[jb7]

"Do you think that the extra density around the edges might be to do with increased development? This semi-stand method might help with that, since the film is lying on the bottom of the tray for long periods, minimizing the effect of fresh developer ingress to the underside."

How large are your trays? A tray which is too close to the same dimensions as the film can cause over-agitation as the developer sloshes against the the edge of the tray. I use 10x20" trays for 7x17" film and agitate rather gently in order to prevent this.

Well I don't actually have that problem, at least I don't think so, I haven't scanned or printed my negs yet. I'm aware of the tray size issue, however, x-ray film is further complicated due to the double sided emulsion. If a negative has a short development time there is more chance of uneven development, particularly on the lower surface in contact with the smooth bottomed tray. There might be more chance of finding fresher developer around the edges of the underside, rather than towards the centre.

I use 16x20 trays for 11x17...

[William Whitaker]

I now have a 14x17 film holder and will be making my 14x17 extension back. I am curious what lenses people are shooting 14x17 with.

The basis for my lens kit for 14x17 and 12x20 are the 355mm G-Claron, 450 M-Nikkor and a 270mm Computar. I also have a 600mm Apo-Ronar which seems to be ideal. Also have a 500mm Wollaston from Reinhold. There are some other older, fuzzier lenses, too, but that's the core kit.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I am curious what lenses people are shooting 14x17 with.

My 300M Nikkor, 355G-Claron, 450M Nikkor, 600C Fujinon all cover my Rickety1417.

[photoevangelist]

http://parkseed.com/large-perma-nest...domes/p/v1590/

This and other plant supply stores won't ship internationally unfortunately. Apparently these trays are a thing of the past in Korea too. Any flower store I visit in Korea doesn't carry these. I can't find them online in Korea either.

[Carl J]

Actually not. Looks like it wasn't the film with problems (except for the spots I was getting - because I don't have those). The problem is me. I just cannot master this tray processing thing! The Rodinal 1:100 images I processed today are looking bad - more unevenness. This is really quite frustrating.

Possible agitation and developer problems aside, you're getting better skies, though. Which filter, again? I'm using a #12 (medium yellow) but still seems to be luck if I get much in the way of clouds but it does make something of a difference, at least.

3 min. in XTOL 1:1 seems pretty short, however (not that it doesn't seem to be working), considered trying 1:2 or 1:3?

[photoevangelist]

"Do you think that the extra density around the edges might be to do with increased development? This semi-stand method might help with that, since the film is lying on the bottom of the tray for long periods, minimizing the effect of fresh developer ingress to the underside."

How large are your trays? A tray which is too close to the same dimensions as the film can cause over-agitation as the developer sloshes against the the edge of the tray. I use 10x20" trays for 7x17" film and agitate rather gently in order to prevent this.

My tray with developer is 16x20 for 7x17. It can dance all over the place since there is more room on the left and right sides. I've found however that a medium aggressive agitation gets me the evenness I need. One thing I wasn't doing before I processed with XTOL was long prewashes. I normally did 1:30 min - 2 min prewashes. I read somewhere that 5 min pre washes are necessary for even skies. I changed both developer and prewashing times at the same time so I can't be sure if the prewash or XTOL was the cure. For the film edges that are getting too hot, I think they could be cropped or perhaps try a more dilute mix for longer times. 3 min was never too short for my 8x10 in Rodinal 1:50. 7x17 is proving to be another demon on its own. I can't just look at my negative and tell there is a problem going on, so I've been using my scanner to preview before I try the next experiment. I'm very grateful I can do these scans in two parts. If I was doing any larger negative it may very well be impossible and would have to go all kinds of contact prints and would take me longer to figure this all out. I'm definitely more excited that XTOL and PMK are giving me results I can work with. I'd love to try Sandy King's Pyrocat HD. Freestyle didn't have it at the time, so I bought PMK instead. I'd mix it myself, but when I asked the chemical supply store, one of the ingredients had to be imported and it was looking mighty expensive. The premix would be cheaper for me even with the shipping fees.