Yet another 8x20 camera thread

**pound** · 2-Aug-2016, 01:40

Originally Posted by Barrie B.

Greetings , I often use ' one tray ' to process large sheets of paper :- use three buckets ( or containers ) for your chemicals (i) Developer (ii) stop (iii) fix ) and tip the chemical back into its bucket . You only need to rinse out the tray after the fixer . This way one can manage quiet a few large prints per session. Of course I use three 5" x 7" trays for my test strips for the large prints I use un-ribbed bottom trays and the print sticks to the bottom when pouring out the chemicals . Cheers Barrie B. Australia.

thanks Barrie for sharing your experience. I just not used to use to working in total darkness when developing film. I will update more more when my camera reach me. Cheers!

**Jim Fitzgerald** · 2-Aug-2016, 06:55

I built my first camera many years ago and it is an 8x20. At first the format will be hard to "see" in order to compose. I've taken many wonderful images especially tall trees (redwoods) with this camera. Here is some of what I've learned. Finding a backpack. I use a MEI backpack for all of my cameras except the 14x17. You can find them on E-bay. They have good suspension and they are not filled with all of the extra padding that will make the bag weigh a lot. You can add your own as needed. The lens I use most is my Rodenstock 360mm Gerogon. The lens is not in a shutter and is light weight and amazingly sharp and the coverage is huge. Wide open at F-9 it covers. It will take 77mm filters as I recall.
Keep your eye out on e-bay and on the forums for film. I've found a lot of expired film and right now am using some Berger 200 from 2006 and it is very good. The Ilford run is the way to buy film. Even in this format I love to shoot slow film. Depends on your subject matter and how you wish to print. For years I shot Efke 25 in 8x20. An amazing film with a huge range and I've made some wonderful carbon transfer prints from these negatives. You will generally be shooting at F-45 or greater and will be doing long exposures so find a film and learn it. Same with a developer. I started with Pyrocat HD as I knew that I would be doing an alternative printing process. So consider that as well.
For years I worked in a small bathroom. 3 feet by 5 feet. I developed and printed up to 14x17 in there.You have to get creative for sure. For 8x20 use a 16x20 tray or trays. I used the 10x22 seed trays and got surge marks on my negatives. You can use one tray but it will be a pain in the dark changing things out. Use four trays just make sure the developer is in a tray that is big enough and use plenty of chemical. I use 4,000 ml of Pyrocat HD to develop. I've done 3-4 negatives in this. 8x20 that is.

Now when I've done shows my 8x20 work gets the most attention. It is a format that a lot of people don't see. The contact print is what counts, at least for me. Also, I feel that if you have at least four film holders you will have enough if you go on a trip. It will make you think about your compositions much more. Most of all enjoy and expect some attention.
Have fun!

**pound** · 5-Aug-2016, 02:39

Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald

I built my first camera many years ago and it is an 8x20. At first the format will be hard to "see" in order to compose. I've taken many wonderful images especially tall trees (redwoods) with this camera. Here is some of what I've learned. Finding a backpack. I use a MEI backpack for all of my cameras except the 14x17. You can find them on E-bay. They have good suspension and they are not filled with all of the extra padding that will make the bag weigh a lot.

Thanks Jim for the various tips on the bag and lenses. I read one of the older post that you mentioned the MEI backpack. Unfortunately I did not win the last one that was on Ebay recently. Will be sourcing locally for alternatives . I guess I will have more questions when I start to use the camera.

**pound** · 5-Aug-2016, 05:50

Originally Posted by pound

Thanks Jim for the various tips on the bag and lenses. I read one of the older post that you mentioned the MEI backpack. Unfortunately I did not win the last one that was on Ebay recently. Will be sourcing locally for alternatives . I guess I will have more questions when I start to use the camera.

Thank Jim. Sorry about the typo. I cannot edit my reply.

**Fr. Mark** · 5-Aug-2016, 20:29

Ken Lee on this forum recommends using a night vision goggle. This would make working in the dark much easier for the one tray thing assuming you aren't using IR film. The goggles emit and "see" IR.

**pound** · 30-Aug-2016, 19:24

my camera is here and I am happy with it. One of the dark slide disintegrated but I have quickly DIY one with a black acrylic sheet. Still looking for a bag for it. I think just for the camera i would need one that is 25x16x8". The new MEI Voyageur seems to a bit too small but I will be on the lookout for the older models on ebay unless I can find something locally.

I have also tested a paper negative with it and processed it with tray. Amazing details on the paper neg. I will continue to shoot with paper neg until I can get hold of some film.

**Lachlan 717** · 30-Aug-2016, 23:05

I use one of these for my 7x17", along with 4 holders and 4 lenses. Heaps of room to spare.

http://www.blackwolf.com.au/product/Cuba/14/category/31

**pound** · 31-Aug-2016, 05:39

Originally Posted by Lachlan 717

I use one of these for my 7x17", along with 4 holders and 4 lenses. Heaps of room to spare.

http://www.blackwolf.com.au/product/Cuba/14/category/31

Thanks ...it looks good, good size and front panel loading but never see this brand here in Singapore. Will look closer to home before exploring shipping one in..

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