Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Tin Can]

The way I started getting people to sit for me was to start a defined project with an end goal. In my case, it's portraits of Oklahoma musicians (past & present) shot on 4×5″ x-ray film. Once you get a few to sit for you they start telling their friends. I use social media to find more subjects.

I spent a lot of time being timid about actually getting live models over here. Lots of excuses to myself. "I need to nail down the lighting. I need a different lens. I need to improve my darkroom technique." It was time wasted. Just do it.

My point is, make a project for yourself and then go out an find the subjects you need for it — it's much easier than it sounds.

Good advice and I have done that.

I will get going again.

[Jim Noel]

Yes, next time I bracket widely.

First time.

My suggestion for bracketing low light shots is to double for each exposure. The laws of reciprocity cause these to be not quite one stop apart.
Example: 1,2,4,8,16. . . whether seconds, minutes or hours.
Jim

[Tin Can]

My suggestion for bracketing low light shots is to double for each exposure. The laws of reciprocity cause these to be not quite one stop apart.
Example: 1,2,4,8,16. . . whether seconds, minutes or hours.
Jim

Thanks Jim!

That was my plan, but I got cold and very nervous in the isolated spot 'down by the river.' Looks civilized, but Chicago can be dicey.

I will shoot that location again when it warms up. I think a lot of Chicago river shots are done by boat as I cannot find the best angles on land.

I have shot from our water taxi, but it vibrates a lot and moves quickly, however cheapest boat ride anywhere.

[SergeiR]

Thanks Jim!

That was my plan, but I got cold and very nervous in the isolated spot 'down by the river.' Looks civilized, but Chicago can be dicey.

I will shoot that location again when it warms up. I think a lot of Chicago river shots are done by boat as I cannot find the best angles on land.

I have shot from our water taxi, but it vibrates a lot and moves quickly, however cheapest boat ride anywhere.

theoretically you can do it from spots where water is not scary deep by using tripod in water. But yes, there are dodgy places along the riverwalk. Bring people with you, Randy Don't be loner

[Tin Can]

theoretically you can do it from spots where water is not scary deep by using tripod in water. But yes, there are dodgy places along the riverwalk. Bring people with you, Randy Don't be loner

Understood. I am not shooting the downtown River Walk but much farther North. I am a loner. But when one is alone, you meet more people and make new friends. That's why I prefer to travel alone. Works for me.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Late Afternoon Light

The winter sun sets a bit too fast.
The window of time between beautiful afternoon light with long elongated shadows, and the moment the sun sets behind the hills in the west, is very short.
If you don't pay attention, you can easily miss it.
Especially with the time it takes to set up the LF camera.
But it's worth it.

18x24cm camera
Fujinon W 250
Agfa CP G+ (x-ray film) at 100asa.
Tray developed by inspection in Ilford MG 1+100 at 22C for 7min
Scan from negative, finished in PS.

[senderoaburrido]

Okay, so I got a Wratten no. 44a filter on ebay, cut it down to size, placed it in a cokin gelatin holder and, with the aid of adapters, slapped it on my spot meter. Now that my spot meter is "seeing" roughly what the EB/RA Carestream single-side emulsion film does, I'd like to establish a static ISO approximation. Has anyone narrowed it down with a similar setup as mine? Or do I just figure it out by experimentation?

[Tin Can]

I think most now believe ISO on this film changes by angle of Sun. I see people choosing 50, 80, 100. I shoot it 'now' at 50 under studio strobes. Which is working for me in studio.

But most advice here on ASA is find your personal EI.

Okay, so I got a Wratten no. 44a filter on ebay, cut it down to size, placed it in a cokin gelatin holder and, with the aid of adapters, slapped it on my spot meter. Now that my spot meter is "seeing" roughly what the EB/RA Carestream single-side emulsion film does, I'd like to establish a static ISO approximation. Has anyone narrowed it down with a similar setup as mine? Or do I just figure it out by experimentation?

[senderoaburrido]

I understand what you are saying. The thing is that the filter I chose is cyan (discovered it as a "minus-red" filter), which should be blocking the majority of the red light coming through to the spot meter. Regardless of my source of light, the meter ought to be giving me readings that are consistently parallel with the specific sensitivities of the film, no? I figured this would allow me to establish a baseline ASA/ISO.

[Tin Can]

I understand what you are saying. The thing is that the filter I chose is cyan (discovered it as a "minus-red" filter), which should be blocking the majority of the red light coming through to the spot meter. Regardless of my source of light, the meter ought to be giving me readings that are consistently parallel with the specific sensitivities of the film, no? I figured this would allow me to establish a baseline ASA/ISO.

I cannot advise on your scenario.

Why not try it both ways? This stuff is cheap. I cut to 4x5 and run through a bit finding my way through the smoke.