Wet / dry plate photography

[Two23]

So this answers 2 questions, yes put exposed plates in water and take them home


for the record I did order a custom silver box from France, which looks exactly like a Lund with a different prop stand

The French tanks have hardware that corrodes from the silver nitrate, and the lids can develop leaks. Some people have written they quickly replace the hardware. Still not sure why anyone would not just go ahead and process wet plate in the field. It's easy and takes only 15 seconds to develop, maybe 30 seconds in the wash tray, and about 3 minutes in the fix. This allows you to see if the exposure was correct, which is important. You really can't meter wet plate since it responds to UV light. More, the collodion itself changes sensitivity as it ages. Not sure why someone would go to all the trouble to take a shot and then not check to see if they got anything. Once plate is developed and fixed, yes very convenient to have a way to keep it wet so you can take it home to do the final 15 minute wash.

I did get the Coffer manual when I started and it's very good. It's very practical and hands on. I still had some problems the manual didn't mention but eventually figured them out.

Below is the frame & box for my latest dark lab. It fits perfectly in the rear of my Subaru Forrester. My wife sewed a large tent to go over it from light proof drapery lining. The outside is white to reflect heat, the inside is black to cut reflected light. I have x2 multi-LED red lights mounted inside, and added a strap to secure my silver tank while traveling. (LAST thing you want is for silver solution to spill!) The floor of the box is lined with plastic foam core and then cardboard cut to fit. I can replace the cardboard from time to time. Also have a holder for paper towels inside. PVC frame so it can be disassembled and even wheeled on a dolly to remote locations. I have processed ISO 2 dry plates in it as well, but it's not quite light tight enough to do film. Plenty of room to do 8x10 and probably 11x14. Bigger than that I think I'm look at getting a tent.


Kent in SD

[pkr1979]

Thanks again all,

A few follow up questions from me here... and please pardon any potential ignorance on my behalf. So, I'm probably eager to try the wet plate stuff instead of the dry plates - and in particular I want to make correctly orientated ambrotypes. But what is it that characterizes the different processes? What makes an ambrotype an ambrotype? Ive read that they are underexposed on purpose to make positives (rather then the chemical process)? Does that mean that the process apart from that and the black backing is the same as other wetplate collodion techniques?

I guess Im asking if I get a collodion 'kit' I can use the same chemicals to do these different kinds of techniques? Also, how long does a ambrotype last? Im guessing its possible to make a contact sheet on a negative for preservation?

Im shooting mostly 810 but only got film holders for it. But I can convert one of these to hold wetplates I assume/according to the internet.
Apart from that I need the chemicals and glassplates, a rack for the glassplates, gloves and protective glasses. Anything else? I'll start out in the backyard so I can do the development in the basement... meaning I can wait a little with the portable darkroom.

Cheers
Peter

[goamules]

The same chemistry works for all the techniques. There are different variations of formulas though. So buy a kit that is set up to work with all the other parts. Some people have a special collodion formula for negatives, a different one for positives also. But most beginners would never need that, the same will work fine for both. An ambrotype is the same chemicals and exposure as a tintype, but on glass. It will be easy for you to determine a good exposure when you start shooting.

I think you said you ordered a manual. When you read that it will become clear all the items you'll need. I don't want to answer the other 25 questions you're going to ask before you have a manual. Learning wetplate is like learning to fly an airplane. You can possibly do it by asking a million questions. But it's better to take a class and/or read the manual.

[pkr1979]

Haha - fair enough :-) I didnt get one yet, but I’ll get a hold of a manual shortly and get around to try this. I’ll return with questions then ;-) And thanks - this thread is an interesting read in weird times.

[ghostcount]

8 hours north of your location, there is this...

https://www.nordphotography.com/wet-plate-collodion

[Pere Casals]

dry / plate

For dry plate, I'd recommend you this site: http://thelightfarm.com/

Also I'd recommend you to buy the book.



You can reversal processing the dry plates to obtain positive images. You may reverse the slide, so the slide won't be geometrically reversed. You may place a white surface in the other side to look like a print, but in that case density has to be lower as light has to cross the image twice.

[Two23]

Thanks again all,

1. What makes an ambrotype an ambrotype? Ive read that they are underexposed on purpose to make positives (rather then the chemical process)? Does that mean that the process apart from that and the black backing is the same as other wetplate collodion techniques?

2. I guess Im asking if I get a collodion 'kit' I can use the same chemicals to do these different kinds of techniques?
3. Also, how long does a ambrotype last? Im guessing its possible to make a contact sheet on a negative for preservation?

4. Im shooting mostly 810 but only got film holders for it.

4. But I can convert one of these to hold wetplates I assume/according to the internet.

5.Apart from that I need the chemicals and glassplates, a rack for the glassplates, gloves and protective glasses. Anything else?

6. I'll start out in the backyard so I can do the development in the basement... meaning I can wait a little with the portable darkroom.

1. An ambrotype is simply a tin type shot on either black glass or regular glass with a black background (typically velvet.)

2. Yes, but you mix the developer to a different strength for negatives vs. positives. Negative developer is weaker. Most also use a slightly different formula for negatives.

3. No one knows yet. I've heard estimations of 1,000 to 2,000 years.

4. Only 8x10 is going to get very expensive, and needlessly so. I shoot 4x5 test plates before committing to an 8x10. Remember, there is no exposure meter for this. You have to guess. I usually have to shoot one and sometimes two 4x5 tests.

5. Camera, lens, tripod, dark cloth, focus loupe, silver tank, disposable gloves, safety glasses when filtering/pouring silver etc., old clothes, tray to develop in (or over), tray for water stop, tray for fixing, roll of paper towels, plenty of water (distilled for mixing chemicals,) red light in darkroom, electric griddle to gently heat plate, shellac/varnish, place to dry the plates (or use hair dryer.)

6. Keep in mind that the silver will drip all over when you lift it out of the tank. It's clear at first, like water, but then it turns dark brown. Consider the stains permanent. I never do any of it in the house but if I had a dedicated darkroom with dedicated sink I would.


Kent in SD

[pkr1979]

Thanks again folks.

I agree that a workshop would be best, but with two little ones time is an issue - I might get permission though ;-) And it sounds fun.

Reversed dryplates is an option... I'll check out the lightfarm.

And Kent in SD... thanks for the comments and for mentioning the dripping silver in particular - I will need that portable darkroom after all :-)

[Jimi]

Since you are located in Oslo, I would guess there are at least one or two wet plate photographers locally. If not, then there are a few in the Gothenburg area. When the time is right, I can always refer you to someone for a workshop session in that case.

[pkr1979]

Pere, this:

You can reversal processing the dry plates to obtain positive images. You may reverse the slide, so the slide won't be geometrically reversed. You may place a white surface in the other side to look like a print, but in that case density has to be lower as light has to cross the image twice.

Would I do that as I reversal process my BW film? Except I probably shouldn't do it in a Jobo.

Jimi, thanks - I'll keep that in mind :-)