Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[seezee]

Huh, what do you know, that looks perfect! Can you post a picture of the modifications to the MOD54?

+1

[Westerman]

I've been trying different developing combinations over the last month for 8x10 x-ray film, and finally, after about a couple dozen over-developed, fogged, or badly scratched negatives, I've found a method that works consistently for me. I tried using a gallon size mason jar, but it leaked and was messy to use, I tried the unicolor 8x10 tube, but it scratched the negative, I tried a cibachrome tank, but it scratched the negative. I tried using a red fluorescent light that was supposed to be safe for x-ray film, but it was fogging the film. I tried developing in the Stearman Press developer that came with the SP-445, but it caused millions of tiny black spots to cover the negative, I tried developing in HC-110, but the film was very grainy and lost lots of detail.

I am now doing tray developing with a sheet of glass on the bottom in total darkness and developing by inspection using an old Eyeclops night vision toy with half strength Acufine developer. I'm still trying to learn how properly developed x-ray film looks under infrared light, but my negatives are now consistently properly developed with almost no scratches.

I think the skies are a bit mottled, because I'm not getting consistent development on the top and bottom emulsion, but I think it gives an interesting look.

Here is an example of one of my first photos with the new process:



and here is another that I had posted to the Cemeteries thread:

[Corran]

Nice results. I flip my negatives over every minute or so developing in tanks, which might help your mottling problem? I've never seen that on my negatives, anyway.

Acufine is a great developer! I've used it diluted a couple of times but never with x-ray, very cool.

[koraks]

Dito, although I flip the sheets over even more frequently - about every 15 seconds. This prevents hot edges, which seems to be caused by developer replenishing the bottom side of the film along the edges, but not in the center of the sheets. Continuous agitation and frequent turning of the film so far has been the only way I get reasonably good negatives.

[Westerman]

I'm sure I'm getting the mottling because I'm mainly keeping the film flat on the glass and not moving it much to keep it from getting smudged or scratched. The glass I'm using is 8 x 10 from a picture frame and still has sharp edges. I might try getting some larger glass, so the film can be moved and flipped more without being scratched. Half strength Acufine only gives me about 3 minutes of developing time, so I might try 1/4 strength and see if I have more time to flip the film.

[MAubrey]

Very first negative. I didn't put much effort into avoiding scratches. I'm cutting 11x14 down to 5x7 and I don't yet have a good cutting system. Once I have that in place, things will look significantly better (and I'll make more effort to be careful about dust, which there's also plenty of).

Still, I'm pleased. I expected the contrast to be more difficult to handle. Lot's of potential here, but I'm going to need a lot more practice! Developed with Caffenol and fixed with TF-5:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]160191[/ATTACH

[seezee]

Dito, although I flip the sheets over even more frequently - about every 15 seconds. This prevents hot edges, which seems to be caused by developer replenishing the bottom side of the film along the edges, but not in the center of the sheets. Continuous agitation and frequent turning of the film so far has been the only way I get reasonably good negatives.

I was going to ask how folk handled developing the back-side of the double-emulsion film when tray developing. Both to avoid scratches and to get even development on front and back. I haven't tried the sheet of glass trick yet, but plan to soon.

Since I'm semi-stand developing, I wonder how often I should be flipping if I go back to trays with the double-sided stuff.

[seezee]

I tried using a red fluorescent light that was supposed to be safe for x-ray film, but it was fogging the film.

Many of those on this thread, including myself, had had good luck with this lamp. This base allows you to double your output when used with a standard spring-clip shop light. As long as you point the fixture toward the ceiling or walls, away from your trays, you shouldn't fog film. It's okay to shine directly for a short time for inspection. I have left film sitting in trays for an hour under those conditions with no noticeable harm.

[Jim Noel]

I was going to ask how folk handled developing the back-side of the double-emulsion film when tray developing. Both to avoid scratches and to get even development on front and back. I haven't tried the sheet of glass trick yet, but plan to soon.

Since I'm semi-stand developing, I wonder how often I should be flipping if I go back to trays with the double-sided stuff.

I use Cesco trays which are extremely smooth and do not scratch the film. They are one standard size larger than the film size. I agitate almost constantly and flip the film every minute. No scratches and nice even development,

[koraks]

Yeah, I use a non-stick oven tray that is very smooth as well. I suppose as glass tray would work too. I don't have much hope for getting even development with semi-stand due to the underside of the film being unevenly affected by fresh developer seeping underneath the film along the edges. It should work fine if you just use one side and strip the backside. I tried stripping one side and it works fine (with chlorox), but it's a little messy and there's the risk of chlorox getting to the image side if you don't tape the negative down properly. Due to the loss of density, I haven't pursued this route yet, but it seems feasible - although it's a bit of extra work.