Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[koraks]

Considering the fact that you used a ribbed tray, the results are actually quite encouraging! Most of the unevenness seems to be caused by this; using a flat-bottomed tray should get rid of most of the problem. I see in the first image that the edges are still a little 'hot' from overdevelopment. As many others will assure you, only a bigger tray will solve this. I currently use a non-stick oven tray tray that's about 25x35cm (inner dimensions; ca. 10x14") and that seems to be just large enough for 8x10" film. For 4x5" x-ray film I use a tray that's about 13x19cm (~5x7.5") and that works fine. Don't waste your time on trays that are too small and that will just fit your film - I've been there, done that for dozens or probably even hundreds of sheets and the edges will _always_ develop faster than the center, no matter what magic you work with your body to ensure perfect agitation.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I would not recommend continuous agitation with double-sided x-ray film in trays, including flat-bottomed trays. You run the risk of "skuffing" and or scratching the emulsions. Gentle north/south, east/west every 30 seconds works very well for me. Flipping the emulsion can be good advice (I don't. I don't like sticking my fingers in Pyrocat), but be very careful to not scratch with your finger nails. Stay away from ribbed trays... or place a sheet of plexi inside.

[koraks]

I wish I could get even development the way you do it Andrew, but my mileage varies too much from yours, I'm afraid How you get even development without flipping the film is beyond me (well, without stripping the backside of course) - count your blessings!
You're right about the scuffing and the scratching. This film scratches if you so much as look at it.

Here's one I did this afternoon. Doubled-sided green-sensitive at EI 50, Pyrocat HD 1.5+1.5+100, continuous agitation for about 9 minutes by gently rocking the tray from side to side for 5 times and then flipping the sheet over. Wearing gloves helps to keep the nasty pyrocat off the skin. Scan from negative; I develop these for Van Dyke printing and this negative is a tad on the thin side, but it prints quite alright.

[DeKlari]

Do any of you try a vertical developing? like standard tank for 4x5 with frames? I guess for 8x10 film it will be a little problem to find such large and thin tank.
I'm sorry if you already discuss this, but this forum too big..

[DeKlari]

excellent work, I definitely should try this

[koraks]

Thanks; it's been a long and rocky road and I'm not quite there yet, but I'm finally getting somewhere at least.

[j.e.simmons]

I've successfully used tank development with hangers for X-ray film. Both 4x5 and 8x10.Pyrocat developer and various minimal agitation schemes. I make sure to agitate vigorously.

[koraks]

I haven't tried tank development personally, but I suspect that if you can live with the volumes of developer and fixer it requires, I think it should work very well indeed.

[DeKlari]

I haven't tried tank development personally, but I suspect that if you can live with the volumes of developer and fixer it requires, I think it should work very well indeed.

I just thinking, If make very thin plastic tank for 8x10. Something as 8x10 film holder to reduce the volumes of developer (it could be also transparent) and using it in the darkroom.

[seezee]

Do any of you try a vertical developing? like standard tank for 4x5 with frames? I guess for 8x10 film it will be a little problem to find such large and thin tank.
I'm sorry if you already discuss this, but this forum too big..

I use the discontinued HP CombiPlan for 4×5. But I'll be tray developing when I get my Century Universal in working order.