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Thread: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

  1. #3211

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    The images primarily show the difference in color response of orthochromatic and panchromatic emulsions. You can not get the same response onthe two films. If you want the look of the HP5+, use it, not orthochromatic x-ray film.
    Well I don't mind some of the contrast but there in the crook of the tree it went completely black, that isn't just because it is Ortho film, it's because I need to adjust my process to lower the contrast. I've seen some BEAUTIFUL imagery by one lady who's shooting something in the 14x17 range size cameras portraits, and they look Increadibly smooth and low contrast, so I know it can be done with ortho film, I'll try the yellow filter trick.

  2. #3212
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: X-ray Film example and comparison.

    No, it cannot be developed conventionally. It relies on heat to reveal the image.

  3. #3213

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    Re: X-ray Film example and comparison.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    No, it cannot be developed conventionally. It relies on heat to reveal the image.
    Great video Andrew, very informative

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Well I don't mind some of the contrast but there in the crook of the tree it went completely black, that isn't just because it is Ortho film, it's because I need to adjust my process to lower the contrast. I've seen some BEAUTIFUL imagery by one lady who's shooting something in the 14x17 range size cameras portraits, and they look Increadibly smooth and low contrast, so I know it can be done with ortho film, I'll try the yellow filter trick.
    Could you share link, if its not too much trouble? I am always looking for interesting portraiture photographers

  5. #3215

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by SergeiR View Post
    Could you share link, if its not too much trouble? I am always looking for interesting portraiture photographers
    I wish I could right now, unfortunately Facebook recently blocked me from access because they said my name "Stone NYC" was not the name I go by and real-life, I assume when they say that they mean my giving legal name, however this is the name I go by real life and anyway they have blocks access until that whole thing is sorted out, and I only know her through Facebook and a large-format group on Facebook. she has a very unique name and I'm not quite sure how to spell it.

    I'll try to remember if and when I gain access to Facebook again and will look her up and post here.

  6. #3216

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Well I don't mind some of the contrast but there in the crook of the tree it went completely black, that isn't just because it is Ortho film, it's because I need to adjust my process to lower the contrast. I've seen some BEAUTIFUL imagery by one lady who's shooting something in the 14x17 range size cameras portraits, and they look Increadibly smooth and low contrast, so I know it can be done with ortho film, I'll try the yellow filter trick.
    If a portion went completely black, it is under-exposed. Since shadows are inherently blue, adding a yellow filter will only cause it to get even less exposure.

  7. #3217
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    I suggest exposing for the shadows, developing for the highlights........
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  8. #3218

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    If a portion went completely black, it is under-exposed. Since shadows are inherently blue, adding a yellow filter will only cause it to get even less exposure.
    I would obviously compensate for the filter factor, but yes, that was my point, my metering was no different between the two films that I used, the only thing that changed was the exposure index I chose to use with each found in the development time, I'm finding that the ektascan (supposedly roughly normally an ASA100 film) shot at EI 80, is still not enough, so might have to go to EI50, however using Rodinal, I'm running into development times that would be difficult, under 5 minutes for EI 50. I'm going to experiment with diluting 1:100 instead of 1:50 to avoid this issue, but I'm worried about the small amount of developer, 1:100 with 300ml of developer for 5 sheets of 8x10 ektascan might put me in the exhausted developer arena, though perhaps that would be good and would fix this contrast issue?

    Anyway, I won't have time to "experiment" as much for a while but will try something different next time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Corran View Post
    I suggest exposing for the shadows, developing for the highlights........
    Yes, I know, but first you have to know what the true speed of the film is for daylight AND a good dev starting point, I've seen lots of people with various opinions about that but I haven't seen their negatives to know the densities they find acceptable etc, best to test until you can get it down yourself for your own personal tastes.

  9. #3219
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    I suggest Rodinal 1:100 like you say. It's worked just fine for me with Fuji HR-T, and that has the double-sided emulsion.

    You don't have to know the true speed of anything, you just need to evaluate your negs. If you are having shadow values that are too low, give it more exposure, and if you want to pull your highlights, give it less development.
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  10. #3220
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    You determine film speed. Shoot a evenly lit black card in shade. Use your best educated guess as to what the EI of the film is. Set that on your meter. Now meter the card and place the resulting value on Zone I, i.e. close down 4 stops from the meter reading. Take the photo. Close down one more stop and take another photo. Open up two stops and take a photo. You now have exposures bracketing your estimated film speed by 1 top over and under. You can do more if you're really unsure, but for 8x10 I'd just do the three. Develop the film using your best guess. Read the negatives with a densitometer. You want Zone 1 to read _at least_ .1 above film base plus fog. I prefer the value to be about .15. Does that correspond to one of your sheets? If it falls between the ranges your sheets give you, estimate the EI value that'll give you what you want. If there's not enough density, do the test again, starting with 2 stops more exposure than the first test. If it's more, do the same but giving 2 stops less for the starting exposure.

    Once you have your film speed, do a development test. Photograph an evenly lit blank white card in sunlight. Set the EI you determined on your meter. Meter the card, making sure it's evenly lit. Read your meter and open your lens to 3 stops more than the meter reading, which places that value on Zone VIII. Take two more exposure exactly the same. Develop one of your negatives. For diffusion printing, the value should be about 1.3 above film base plus fog. If you're not there, estimate the change in development. Develop the next sheet, measure, estimate, and develop the last sheet if needed. If you're development is way off, you might have to do it again.

    You now have your N development. You can test it by exposing one neg for the black card placing it on Zone I.....

    This sounds complicated, but it really isn't. It also doesn't take much time to do.
    “You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
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