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Thread: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

  1. #21
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by ImSoNegative View Post
    very cool Pali good luck with your project please post pictures as you are putting it together
    Thank you! All items have shipped as of this afternoon and they are all scheduled to arrive before Saturday. I will be taking many pictures and potentially videos to share with everyone here.

    Quote Originally Posted by ced View Post
    I just think a frame (sturdier) and not pillars for the front standard...
    Do you intend to make it fold up into the rear?
    Yes, I am hopeful that if done right - this should fold into 18x18 square about 4-5 inches high. I thought about the frame similar to my Deardorff V8 but I would think 3/8" aluminum pillars should be sturdy enough. They will most likely need corner support that is not pictured in the draft design.

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTang View Post
    I'm interested in how you're going to deal with the back
    the back is the only critical part of the camera
    I could make a camera with a cardboard box if I had a back with proper dimensions for film plane/gg plane
    Agreed and I feel the same way. I ordered a film holder so the back can be built around it. I know the basics of what needs to be done but the key challenge will be springs and ground glass placement. I am hoping that having the film holder in hand while building will help. I also plan to mimic the Deardorff 8x10 back and scale to 11x14 as reference.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    I agree. For many years I used a B&J flatbed with a front standard much like the ones the OP proposed. That camera incorporated slides and swings in the front standard, and tilts on the lens board frame. It could have been sturdier. If no slides and swings are intended, securing the front standard to the baseboard with a wider base as shown below would be much stronger. Slides can be eliminated if both front and rear standards have swings. In this case, rather than swing and clamp the front standard about a central screw, consider a clamping screw in a slot hear each edge of the front standard. This more directly clamps the front standard to the baseboard rather than relying on minimum torque of the base of the front standard.

    As for the focusing screw, for readily available material and items, I'd use a standard hardware store V-threaded brass rod running in a threaded hardwood split nut. Lignum Vitae might be a first choice if available, but I grow an excess of Osage Orange at home. The split nut can be tightened as necessary to minimize backlash.

    The support for the rear standard may be versatile, but looks awfully flimsy.
    Attachment 138579
    Jim, these are all great pointers - thank you! I have been studying various camera designs and the svedovsky camera uses the double locks as you suggested. For me it's hard to compromise on movements just yet because I have no idea how things will come around and feel once the camera starts taking shape. I have plenty of wiggle room to learn from experience on the project. Also the general design is modular enough to build/learn/enhance as I go along and that is why I am being ambitious to start with a design that has all movements except rear swing. That one is easy to let go for me because I have never used it on my 8x10.

    Regarding the focusing screw, I bought 5 Start ACME Rod and Nut that Randy posted in this thread earlier. I am hopeful the set will do the job just fine. Regarding rear standard support, I will be adding L shape support which is common to pretty much all camera designs along with heavy duty hinges. Haven't found ideal hinges yet so they may be custom machined from steel for this project.

    I appreciate everyone interest and help on this project. Not everything is finalized in the design yet but that is by choice because I want to adapt as I learn more from the process. Really hoping that all of you will stick around to see the progress and help me make the decisions as things go along.

    I will follow the following basic plan once the birch plywood gets shipped:
    1. Camera base will be built first. Seems straightforward and should provide the platform to get things rolling. The base will have an aluminum plate very similar to my Deardorff V8 for mounting on the tripod.
    2. I will then add the focus rail with all movements including focus screw and guided rails.
    3. The front standard will go next. I haven't fully settled on if it should be a 8" square with 6" lens boards (to match my Deardorff) or 10" square with 6-7" lens boards. Waiting for the bellows maker to get back on what is the "typical" bellows size for 11x14 camera to help make the decision.
    4. Next will be the rear standard and rotating back with springs. The hope is that by this point, there will be many opportunities to learn on what works and what doesn't giving the best chance to get the back right.


    Pali

  2. #22
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Rather than the expense and construction inconvenience of an aluminum plate for a tripod socket, use either a T-nut inset into the top of the base plate and extending to flush with the bottom surface, or 1/4x20 brass insert threaded and epoxied into the bottom plate. These are cheaper and more durable than aluminum. Adding a 3/8x16 socket during construction is better than adding one later.

    There seem to be variations in the dimensions of ULF film holders. Others with experience in ULF can advise you about this better than I can. A variety of holders that otherwise fit but have differing "T" spacing (the distance from the face of the holder to the back of the septum) can be used if the focus is adjusted by the variation in the T distance after focusing on the ground glass.

  3. #23
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    Rather than the expense and construction inconvenience of an aluminum plate for a tripod socket, use either a T-nut inset into the top of the base plate and extending to flush with the bottom surface, or 1/4x20 brass insert threaded and epoxied into the bottom plate. These are cheaper and more durable than aluminum. Adding a 3/8x16 socket during construction is better than adding one later.

    There seem to be variations in the dimensions of ULF film holders. Others with experience in ULF can advise you about this better than I can. A variety of holders that otherwise fit but have differing "T" spacing (the distance from the face of the holder to the back of the septum) can be used if the focus is adjusted by the variation in the T distance after focusing on the ground glass.
    Thank you again Jim. Will keep these in mind during the build. I ordered the Film holder that has arrived and quick tape measurements show that it matches the specs here: http://home.earthlink.net/~eahoo/page8/filmhold.html

    Here are the two parts that I have received so far - the start is getting near



    Question regarding bellows. I contacted Rudy (ebay seller) for bellows size recommendations and I am having some challenge due to language differences. My question to him was how "thick" should the bellows fold be for 11x14. By this I mean, should the inner size be 1 inch less than the outer size making the rear outer size 17 inch square and inner size 15 inch square for my build? Does anyone know what is ideal size that I should provide for the bellows fold size?

  4. #24
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Hey Paul, just checking if you have an update on your progress.....

    Jim
    "it’s so easy to get famous now. Have a big butt and an Instagram account."...Naomi Grossman

  5. #25
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Yes, I have been trying to sneak a full camera on you guys but you brought this back to the top : )

    Here is the status on the camera:

    - Machining for all parts except rotating back has been completed
    - The lead screw still has to be sized and needs a slot done on a lathe machine before it is ready for the camera
    - Dad just got the front and rear standard frames done this week and I now have final measurements to order the bellows - these will be ordered in a day or do.

    The camera is mostly in ready to assemble stage but I do not have picture of everything just yet. I plan to take a day off soon to spend a full day with my dad and get the pieces assembled and transform them to take the shape of the camera. So far, things have gone slow but smooth and I am starting to get an appreciation for the size and weight of ULF. It won't be easy but sure will be fun.

    And here are a few pictures that I think are probably of the most interest to all : ) BTW, my dad made some modifications based on his experience and swears he is making things stronger and lighter and not the other way around. I will be taking very detailed pictures when I assemble this so I can document how it all comes together.









    - Pali

  6. #26
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Two more




  7. #27

    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    updates please. i am about to start making an 11x14 back soon and eagerly waiting to see how yours is turning out.

  8. #28
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Pali K View Post
    Thank you again Jim. Will keep these in mind during the build. I ordered the Film holder that has arrived and quick tape measurements show that it matches the specs here: http://home.earthlink.net/~eahoo/page8/filmhold.html

    Here are the two parts that I have received so far - the start is getting near



    Question regarding bellows. I contacted Rudy (ebay seller) for bellows size recommendations and I am having some challenge due to language differences. My question to him was how "thick" should the bellows fold be for 11x14. By this I mean, should the inner size be 1 inch less than the outer size making the rear outer size 17 inch square and inner size 15 inch square for my build? Does anyone know what is ideal size that I should provide for the bellows fold size?
    Did you get the bellows dimensions figured out? Sorry, but I only now noticed your question.

    I had 3 Deardorff bellows made by Turner of Rochester a couple years ago, they no longer make custom bellows.

    They were for a SC 11X14 Studio Deardorff. I just measured the inside dimension to be 14X14" with 1" square folds and the bellows are straight with no taper.

    I need to make a 11X14 box camera this winter.
    Tin Can

  9. #29
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Moe View Post
    Did you get the bellows dimensions figured out? Sorry, but I only now noticed your question.

    I had 3 Deardorff bellows made by Turner of Rochester a couple years ago, they no longer make custom bellows.

    They were for a SC 11X14 Studio Deardorff. I just measured the inside dimension to be 14X14" with 1" square folds and the bellows are straight with no taper.

    I need to make a 11X14 box camera this winter.
    Thank you Randy but I managed to figure out the bellows dimensions. I am using 16x16 inner for the rear and 8x8 inner for the front which will give me room to shoot upto 16x16 plates if I ever want to upgrade this setup. Here are some parts that were made yesterday to support the front and rear standards. I am hoping the camera will be done by next week.



    You definitely need to make a box camera this winter - always need more cameras

  10. #30
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by phillip2446 View Post
    updates please. i am about to start making an 11x14 back soon and eagerly waiting to see how yours is turning out.
    Phillip, the basic outline was machined yesterday but it is going to gets its real shape tomorrow. I'll post pictures as soon as I can.

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