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Thread: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

  1. #21

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by nomennominatur View Post
    I am aware that anti Newton glass should display some roughness, however, neither with naked eye, nor with a 10x loupe am I able to discern any roughening. However, I do not get any Newton rings at all, sandwiching the film without any spacers. I am a bit puzzled myself. The glass is from a rather prestigeous framing shop out of town. Next time I go there, I will ask the owner about the technical details of this archival glass, which he uses only for the most expensive framing jobs. The glass is rather thin, thus the top glass does not brutally weigh down the negative, yet flatness is more than sufficient for my DOF setting.

    Kind regards
    Mathias
    Perhaps your museum glass is the type with an antireflective coating on it? If so make sure you clean it like you would a camera lens. I have a few sheets I've tried in the enlarger and they seem to do a decent job with newton rings on most of the time.

  2. #22
    schatten & licht nomennominatur's Avatar
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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gebhardt View Post
    Perhaps your museum glass is the type with an antireflective coating on it? If so make sure you clean it like you would a camera lens. I have a few sheets I've tried in the enlarger and they seem to do a decent job with newton rings on most of the time.
    Thanks. Multicoating seems to be an option, indeed. I just came across this:
    https://tru-vue.com/solution/museum-glass/

    But then, coating should not affect presence or absence of Newton rings which are a function of wave length and spacing, if my dim recollection of college physics does not fail me...
    "In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few."
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  3. #23

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by nomennominatur View Post
    Thanks. Multicoating seems to be an option, indeed. I just came across this:
    https://tru-vue.com/solution/museum-glass/

    But then, coating should not affect presence or absence of Newton rings which are a function of wave length and spacing, if my dim recollection of college physics does not fail me...
    By reducing the reflection you reduce the rings since they are interference patterns created from the reflection of light between the two surfaces.

  4. #24
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Yes, my experience is that multi-coated glass does reduce Newton's rings, reduce but not eliminate.
    “You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
    ― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know

  5. #25
    schatten & licht nomennominatur's Avatar
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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Larry and Peter, thanks, that makes sense.
    "In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few."
    (Shunryo Suzuki)
    http://www.galerie-elsner.de

  6. #26

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by rdeloe View Post
    ...The tethering approach looks very interesting. Unfortunately Sofortbild only works with Nikon. I have to get serious about finding something that works well with Fuji. Mind you, focusing with live view on the Fuji is actually very easy.
    Capture One Pro (v.11 or now v.12) is your best option for tethering Fuji camera's. Really fast, and it's also the best raw converter, most pro's swear by C1. Has a bit of a learning curve though and it's not cheap (though there is a cheaper Fuji-only version). Download a free trial at https://www.captureone.com

  7. #27
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    I agree with Jeroen about Capture One and Tethering. It's the best solution I've used.
    “You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
    ― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know

  8. #28

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by rdeloe View Post
    When you are camera scanning, the lens plane, sensor plane and the plane of the negative should be absolutely parallel (or as close as you can get). To ensure the scanning template is level, I installed four “furniture levellers” that allow each corner to be raised and lowered independently; these cost a few dollars at the local hardware store. I level the camera using the old trick darkroom workers know well for levelling their enlarger: place a mirror underneath the camera, on top of the level scanning template, focus on the front of the lens, and then adjust the camera until the front of the lens is dead centre in the frame. I find this is much more accurate than putting a level on the camera.
    Ahhhh Furniture levellers...... Thanks very much - I was thinking of ways to properly align my camera

  9. #29

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmarxz View Post
    Ahhhh Furniture levellers...... Thanks very much - I was thinking of ways to properly align my camera
    One could also use three, then it would always be stable during adjustments. Or use a baseboard with three wooden wedges underneath at the edges, moving them in and out to level the baseboard and securing them temporarily with a bit of tape.

  10. #30

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    Re: Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

    Hello to all.
    I need an advise on a freeware software that has a color negative to positive feature.

    I use MS Paint.net for viewing my scans since I don't need any high resolution or super adjustment for printing output.
    Unfortunately, I cannot covert color negatives into positive with it (only "invert colors" which turns a color negative into a total blue image).

    Thank you!
    Pressing the shutter is the only easy thing

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