Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[koraks]

Bob, in my experience so far: rather poor in general, but with great care it's not too bad. The main issue of xray film is its limited latitude which makes tonality quite harsh if both exposure and development are not controlled very carefully. The thin and soft emulsions also make for development issues (uneveness) to manifest themselves where they would not be an issue with regular film. With great care, very decent results can be had as eg Thodoris illustrates very well above, but personally, I am still struggling (after 3 years) to consistently get usable results. If everything goes well, a good print from a single-sided xray neg is almost indistinguishable from a regular film print. Scanning and digital editing offer more flexibility in adjusting the results, but of course, the darkroom is less forgiving.

[bob carnie]

Thank you , I have no experience with this film.

[Tin Can]

Thodoris is using Fuji AD-M xray film which is high-end Mammography film and more expensive than any other X-Ray film. It might be the best Xray film.

I have not used it. It's metric. But ZZ can get it. https://www.zzmedical.com/fuji-ad-m-...-ray-film.html

Compare to Ektascan https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...ideo-film.html

14X17 Ektascan seems gone. It was $1K for 500 sheets...

Many here use 2 sided Xray Film as it's the cheapest. Note this 14X36" film. https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...-ray-film.html

[koraks]

I currently use Ektascan B/RA; I haven't tried the AD-M film but I suspect it's comparable to the EB/RA. While EB/RA is a quite capable film, it does suffer from very limited latitude - even more so than double sided film due to the lack of an additional layer that seems to help preserve highlight contrast in high-contrast scenes. But double sided film (I have used it, I'd say some 150 8x10 sheets and many of them cut into 4x5) is a royal PITA and not worth the trouble IMO.

[meditant]

Hello,

A portrait with my 8x10 camera : 18x24cm (European size) Fuji ADM MAMO at ISO100, dev HC110 Dil. H 6 mins 20°C.
In shadows under the trees at 11AM

[Tin Can]

Like!

Hello,

A portrait with my 8x10 camera : 18x24cm (European size) Fuji ADM MAMO at ISO100, dev HC110 Dil. H 6 mins 20°C.
In shadows under the trees at 11AM

[Andrea Gazzoni]

Hello,

A portrait with my 8x10 camera : 18x24cm (European size) Fuji ADM MAMO at ISO100, dev HC110 Dil. H 6 mins 20°C.
In shadows under the trees at 11AM

Man this is wonderful

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Could someone describe the resulting tonal qualitys on print between x ray negative and lets say ortho neg or pan neg?

Bob,
I conducted the tests below for my own purposes, but I thought that they might provide a better answer your question than my words.

4 pieces of Fuji AD-M mammography film received identical exposures from an xray sensitometer's green light.
They were processed together in 11x14" flat bottomed trays, with intermittent agitation.
They received a 2'min prewash, developed in Adox RO9 20+1000ml at 24C (which happens to be my room temperature, and I have stopped trying to fight it in open trays), with each film pulled from the developer at 4', 5.5', 8', and 11' minutes.
There was a 30"sec rinse, a 5'min fix, and a 10'min wash.
They were then contact printed on Ilford MGWT RC paper, including a Stouffer scale for comparison, at grades 00, 2, and 5.
The exposures were made with a Durst L-1200 and an Ilford 500 head (the one with Green/Blue lights), controlled by an Analyser 500. I exposed for a little more than minimum exposure for maximum black.
The densities were also measured with a black-and-white densitometer and the readings were plotted with the (free to download) FilmTestEvaluation.xls file.

As a side-note/disclaimer, almost all of my equipment is second hand (to say the least), and my digitizing/post-processing equipment are not exactly "calibrated".
But if you were to compare what you see on your screen to actual contact prints of your own of a Stouffer scale on the corresponding grades, it should give you a pretty good idea of what the actual prints look like.

[Fr. Mark]

Thodoris, you do beautiful work!

[Fr. Mark]

I have to say I was disappointed when they combined the pictures and technical threads on Xray, there was a lot of overlap, but it made it slightly easier to find the tech data you need the old way. Don't forget that all Xray is Blue or Blue and Green sensitive. It's not very red sensitive at all, kind of like printing paper in that regard. Consequently, the reds you photograph are rendered v. dark in prints. And, it is also time of day/color of light dependent on its response. Photos from early or late in the day need a lot more exposure, typically, and likewise under incandescent lights. Your light meter will likely tell you to under expose your Xray film under incandescent/early/late light unless you make corrections. Some recommend as much as a stop per hour outside of 10 a.m.-3p.m. I've also seen some quality issues with Ektascan B/RA. The 14x17 is gone? That's sad, that was one of my justifications in planning to make 14x17 camera! I'd not do double sided Xray again without film hangers and dip/dunk approach to developing. YMMV. Double sided is a lot more common/lower cost.