post alternative techniques

[Tin Can]

Attachment 175704

Mordancage with 4x5 negative.

Looks a lot like a Murdercage Triumph Spitfire,'73 and up.

[Bipin]

Yup, that's it! A Mordançaged Murderçage

[bob carnie]

Some tri colour gums , and behind me on the wall a series of silver lith prints from colour negatives.

Skip Dean photographer of the gums
Cory Wilyman photographer of the Liths

[sanking]

thank you both

Have a look at grow light technology. Units that you can hang from the ceiling are available in both HID units at 1000 watts for around $200, and also in LED banks.
Up to 1800 watts of full spectrum light, including UV 380 nm, for $200.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XC4GYS/...a-349961548256

I have not worked with any of these units for making gum prints but I am told they are very effective in growing marijuana. Make some cash by offering the space to your friends to grown their plants when you are not making gum prints.

Sandy

[bob carnie]

Thanks Sandy

I get paranoid when smoking pot so I think this idea is out of the question- though I will look into them for other purposes more suited to me..

Bob

[Vaughn]

Hey, Bob! For historical (hysterical?) reference, this is what I have used for years for personal and workshops-on-the-road printing. Bulbs are hard to find now, but I have a fine collection that should last me. They are 120 volt and take the larger mogul (E39) base.

The piece of wood (1"x3"x3') gets suspended between chairs or whatever I can find. Adaptable for unknown situations ahead! Contact printing frame on the floor with a fan blowing across the top of the frame. Keeps the UV light spill-over low. Bottom of the bulb is about 16 to 24 inches above the contact printing frame (so far; up to 11x14). Not fast...hard to guess what other folks exposure times would be -- maybe 15 minutes. Excellent sharpness. My times run 30 to 60 minutes with dense negs and low pigment in my carbon tissue. I'll set up to three lamps and work on multiple negatives at the same time.

Vaughn

PS -- the problem with the grow lamps (most lamps, really, including mine) is that you are paying for a lot of wavelengths you do not need. That's why I have to run a fan due to the excess white light and heat produced by my merc vapor bulbs. I am assuming that these LED grow units have an array of different LEDs that put out specific wavelengths -- and one can dial in which LEDs to use, depending on the plant needs. Which means that most of the LEDs in the units do not put out UV and the unit as a whole may not kick out that much UV. If you could replace all the LEDs with UV emmitting LEDs, that would be perfect! Research needed!

[bob carnie]

Hey, Bob! For historical (hysterical?) reference, this is what I have used for years for personal and workshops-on-the-road printing. Bulbs are hard to find now, but I have a fine collection that should last me. They are 120 volt and take the larger mogul (E39) base.

The piece of wood (1"x3"x3') gets suspended between chairs or whatever I can find. Adaptable for unknown situations ahead! Contact printing frame on the floor with a fan blowing across the top of the frame. Keeps the UV light spill-over low. Bottom of the bulb is about 16 to 24 inches above the contact printing frame (so far; up to 11x14). Not fast...hard to guess what other folks exposure times would be -- maybe 15 minutes. Excellent sharpness. My times run 30 to 60 minutes with dense negs and low pigment in my carbon tissue. I'll set up to three lamps and work on multiple negatives at the same time.

Vaughn

PS -- the problem with the grow lamps (most lamps, really, including mine) is that you are paying for a lot of wavelengths you do not need. That's why I have to run a fan due to the excess white light and heat produced by my merc vapor bulbs. I am assuming that these LED grow units have an array of different LEDs that put out specific wavelengths -- and one can dial in which LEDs to use, depending on the plant needs. Which means that most of the LEDs in the units do not put out UV and the unit as a whole may not kick out that much UV. If you could replace all the LEDs with UV emmitting LEDs, that would be perfect! Research needed!

Hi Vaughn

thanks I am looking for exactly something as simple as this so I can take it , or ship it easily for some future Artist in Residence and workshop needs. Right now if I timed my 261K exposure for Pt Pd and Gum at average 85 units it seems to be about 3-4 min exposure which is what I would like to end up with .
I am purchasing a small printer ( EpsonP600) to use as a digital neg maker for the above needs on the road. My goal is to travel to locations with equipment I am use to working with so the setup time in other locations is reduced dramatically.

Bob

[Vaughn]

...My goal is to travel to locations with equipment I am use to working with so the setup time in other locations is reduced dramatically.Bob

I just bought one of the UV meters (PPM-2), specifically for calibrating different light sources. I was using the big UV unit at PhotoCentral and used the meter to see what my exposures were running at. I have the numbers written down somewhere and I'll use them to give me a starting point with different light sources.

Of course, each type of light will have its own 'signature'. Bl and BLB tube systems run cool and relatively fast but bulky to transport, and for my thick-emulsion carbon work they produce too soft (sharpness) of an image...and for most people the difference is not significant. I suspect that an array of LEDs might be slightly sharper than BL tubes (made up of multiple point sources rather than glowing tubes) and a UV light meter might be nice to have to monitor any drop in UV output over time. But for weight, ease of transport, low heat output, flexibility, and printing speed, a bank of LEDs seem to fit your bill.

[Tin Can]

Bob, that's the meter I told you about...

I just bought one of the UV meters (PPM-2), specifically for calibrating different light sources. I was using the big UV unit at PhotoCentral and used the meter to see what my exposures were running at. I have the numbers written down somewhere and I'll use them to give me a starting point with different light sources.

Of course, each type of light will have its own 'signature'. Bl and BLB tube systems run cool and relatively fast but bulky to transport, and for my thick-emulsion carbon work they produce too soft (sharpness) of an image...and for most people the difference is not significant. I suspect that an array of LEDs might be slightly sharper than BL tubes (made up of multiple point sources rather than glowing tubes) and a UV light meter might be nice to have to monitor any drop in UV output over time. But for weight, ease of transport, low heat output, flexibility, and printing speed, a bank of LEDs seem to fit your bill.

[Erik Larsen]

Some tri colour gums , and behind me on the wall a series of silver lith prints from colour negatives.

Skip Dean photographer of the gums
Cory Wilyman photographer of the Liths

Those are interesting Bob. The portraits are exceptional I think. The glove series must have been fun to do. Did you get to pick the colors?