Last edited by Bill McMannis; 10-Feb-2013 at 19:09. Reason: typos, always typos
Bill McMannis
Pre-soaking is indispensable for those of us that develop sheet film by hand in trays in large batches in order to keep the film from sticking together in the developer. Other than that, I can see no real advantage to pre-soaking provided that the film is immersed quickly and evenly in the developer.
If that is not so easy to do (e.g., I never thought I could pour developer into a double 120 tank fast enough to guarantee that there was not a significant time lapse between the bottom of the bottom reel and the top of the top reel...) then a pre-soak seems a prudent measure to help ensure more even development, since it slows down the onset of developing a bit.
Similarly, if one re-uses developer, say in a replenishment scheme, then it might be a good idea to keep all that dissolved anti-halation dye out of the mix by removing it with a pre-soak.
I can't think of an instance where pre-soaking would cause problems. There is, of course, a slight difference in developing time with and without pre-soak.
Best,
Doremus
Last edited by Doremus Scudder; 15-Oct-2018 at 10:45.
With a presoak, the rubber bands would still be in place with the taco method and your antihalation dyes would still not wash out completely. Just dump the negatives after processing them into a tray of water an let them soak for a while, the dyes will wash right out. At least the dyes used by Foma will. You can add a little washing soda to the water to facilitate the process; something like 2-4g per liter should be fine.
I must be leading the "unexamined life." I used HP5+ and soak in distilled H2O for 3 minutes with agitation every 30sec. I suppose this will remove any dust, lint, etc., that got on the film, but it will be a benefit only with respect to the dust, lint, etc., that attached to the film after exposure.
But I feel a lot of satisfaction watching all that purple-blue water pouring out of my SP-445 tank.
Last edited by Peter Collins; 14-Oct-2018 at 16:37. Reason: Re-leaning how to spell "agitation." "Ajitation" didn't look right.
Peter Collins
On the intent of the First Amendment: The press was to serve the governed, not the governors --Opinion, Hugo Black, Judge, Supreme Court, 1971 re the "Pentagon Papers."
I always pre soaked as I was taught to do so.
When I started to process my sheet film I did pre soak one time & found issues with my dil.
I used a Jobo with DDX
It's best to test it for yourself, as different methods may or may not be affected by pre soaking or lack thereof.
If you pre-soak , then pre-soak long enough beause if not it may lead to an uneven development, specially in a non rotary process.
"A pre-rinse is not recommended as it can lead to uneven processing." Iford says in the page 3 of datasheet : https://www.silverprint.co.uk/wp-con...0/HP5-Plus.pdf
This is because pre-soaking removes surfactants from the emulsion that are included to ensure a even development.
helps me with HP-4 in 8x10 only..which is weird
5x7... fine, but 8x10 has weird white 'clouds' occasionally that never happen when I remember to pre-soak... and they never appear on 5x7 even when processed together with the 8x10
Well, one explanation I read says that presoak at development temperature allows film to swell to max size for that temp and bring film to developing temp as well. This way, the film can accept max amount of developer more quickly. I know you need it it for color neg and slide film. I do it with 2-bath Pyro a well and Tmax developer. Always done it no problems for me.
And it's cool watching the Easter egg die water pour out.
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