Which JOBO: Expert Drum (3006/3010) or 2521 tank

[Ron Bose]

Hello All,

Which of the two Jobo processing drums is a better 'system' ?

The 2521 style tank requires that a reel be loaded by hand or by loader in a similar way to Kindermann Stainless Steel tanks.

The 3000 series Expert Drum, looks like you 'roll' your sheet film and insert it into a hole in the tank, like you'd load a BTZS tube.

Firstly, are my conclusions correct ? Which system is more user friendly ?

Does the expert drum share, the same anti-halation clearing issue of BTZS tubes ? The advertising for the expert drum claims that it has very even development.

As ever, thank you in advance for your responses ...

[Michael Kadillak]

Without question, the JOBO sheet film drums are the way to go but I would put a conditional statement on my recommendation that they are best utilized with a JOBO CPP2 unit. I have no experience using them on their own and would think that getting fluids out of them without a lift unit (a device that raises the rear of the tank to drain it and in its level position allows chemistry to be poured into the tank while it is rotating) would be difficult at best.

The lids come off of the unit with pressure from a foot pump applied to the center light tight opening and the sheet films are put into the tanks emulsion side out. I have never had a problem with the anti hallation layering not being cleared properly as was regularly the case with the BTZS tubes I started out with. My 3010 drum takes 1 to 10 sheets of 4x5 film. My 3005 drum takes 1 to five sheets of 8x10 film and the 3006 drum takes 1-6 sheets of either 4x5 or 5x7 film.

JOBO systems are not optimally used for diluted developers such as John Sextons HC110 extended developement in tanks with minimal agitation. However, they provide constant mechanical agitation, consistent temprature and many sheets of development at a time in room lighting with a minimum of your attention. All you need to do if you have a JOBO unit is empty of fill your chemistry. I use it for washing as well.

Development is even and consistent.

Cheers!

[Robert J Cardon]

Ron -

A lot of us use the 3010 and swear by it. It’s very, very easy to load, even in the dark, holds 10 sheets, and seems to be quite durable. I’ve loaded 100s of sheets and developed them without ever any streaking, fogging, uneven development, etc. Any flaws in the negs were my own fault, not the drum’s.

My only complaint, a minor one, is that seating the lid is a bit cumbersome. There is no lock position, or flange-type arrangement to ensure it’s on square. If you get it on crooked, the processor will make a squeaking noise, which may increase wear and tear, but it won’t impact the film processing. Normally I put the lid on tight enough to seal the drum, turn the lights one, then make the final adjustments. This is easier done than described.

Another caveat is this: Buy the foot pump attachment. The drums seal tight and the lids are difficult to remove with just your fingernails. The foot pump essentially builds up pressure inside the drum, blowing off lid off the drum (disquieting the first time you experience it).

RJ

[Eric Woodbury]

I use the JOBO 3006 (6 ea, 5x7) with PMK developer. (I backfill the tank with nitrogen to get it to work right.) I have never used the JOBO base. I felt they were too big for my darkroom and too expensive for my budget. Some folks complained that the early motors weren't strong enough. So I built a base of my own, much like a Unicolor type, with a strong motor and lower speeds (for the PMK). I've done hundreds of sheets without a problem.

The top is a bit hard to get off, but I manage without a pump. Still I recommend the pump and will get one when I get around to it. The trick to getting it off is to heat the top of the tank with warm water. Plastic expands rapidly with heat and this loosens the top. I have a cork w/tube that I blow in and the top comes off. Get the pump, but try warming the top (less than 100 degrees F). Just rinsing the top with warm water will do it.

[Andre Noble]

I have both types. I just processed 2 sets of 5 sheets at a time, E-6 in a 3006 drum yesterday. E-6 is a joy with the drums. Drum is nice because you will not damage your sheets during loading. Also, if you shoot infrared film, I would say the drums are almost mandatory because they allow you to load your sheets with the most minimal of handling.

I use a very, very, very! thin film of Vaseline on the inner area of the lid that contacts the drum. this allows the lid to seat all the way down, and facilitates removal much easier with the foot pump. Otherwise, you'll have to build up much more air pressure into tank, and risk busting the drum as some others have noted on some forums.

The regular 2521 and larger 2553 tank is better for general B&W developers, because it allows for diluted developer when necessary, IMO.

Start with one of those since their much cheaper.

[Ron Bose]

Thanks for all your responses ...

So is the Jobo processor manditory ? Or can you fill and empty the chemicals in the same way you would a Patterson or Kindermann tank ?

I have a Unicolor rotating base already and was thinking of using it with the Expert tank to develop only (using HC110-B). I'd consider stop and fixing in trays ....

[Michael Kadillak]

Since you can acquire a used JOBO for a song in todays market, why not make it easy on yourself?

If you want to go through the effort of manually filling tanks and rotating them on a roller base, I can respect that decision as well. Rotation speed consistency in both directions clearly works with the processing units. I would try to match this action manually versus going in one direction. If it were me I would put a piece of colored tape on the drum so you could get a sense of rotation speed and find a way to get good at keeping it consistent during processing and by all means - wear gloves.

Cheers!

[Michael E. Gordon]

I just got the 3010 and am developing with Rollo Pryo and agitating on a Chromega base. I flip the drum every thirty seconds. I have not had a need for the foot pump and have found removing the lid quite easy, but being a rock climber may help. Although I haven't yet maxed out on chemistry capacity, I find it no problem to handle the drum by hand, pouring chemistry in and out.

Get the Expert without hesitation.

[Bill Jefferson]

I've had problems with the jobo lids, form time to time not coming off. One way to take the top off. place the lip of the top on the edge of a table and pull down on the drum slightly, then rotate the drum and repeat the procedure, the top will pull off easily.

[Larry Gebhardt]

Has anyone switched from the 2500 series to the expert drums? If you did, did your times change for E-6 and B&W? I currently use the 2500 drums and have no problems, but I have thought about getting an expert drum for 5x7, but I don't wnat to redo all my development times.