Folmer & Schwing 7x17 Accessories

[photoevangelist]

I recently purchased a 7x17 Folmer & Schwing. It's in customs now and will be delivered on Monday. I'm so excited I can hardly stand it! However, I've encountered a slight misfortune with the ground glass.

Needs:

Ground Glass - The ground glass was shattered during shipment. Where could I get good quality ground glass of this size? I think I'd like one with the grid lines.

Tripod - I have limited access (maybe overnight and weekend usage only and not all of them are functioning) to a large Gitzo at the university I'm employed at. I'm seriously looking into a Berlebach 3032 for personal use. Yeas or Nays on that one? Seems affordable and could potentially support this camera. Might be interested in shooting a few 7x17 vertical with the FS. Would a tripod head be helpful or necessary?

Film Holders: The camera includes one holder. I'm eyeballing one or two additional S&S film holders.

Focusing Cloth: There's a cloth market very near. I'm thinking about having one made. What would be a large enough size for this 7x17 monster camera?


Have:

Film: I've purchased the last box of HP5+ in 7x17 from Midwest Photo. 25 sheets should be enough to do me until Ilford's ULF 2013 order. Even if it doesn't I've got some tricks up my sleeves for some possibly interesting alternatives.

Film Sleeves: 100 7x17 from Climax Photo

Film Processing: Recently purchased a Jobo 2850 to use with the university's Jobo CPP-2. Tank says it only needs 200 ml of developer. Seems very low. Any suggestions on how to process the film flawlessly?

Developer: For the majority of my 35mm and 120 work, I've been using Diafine and Rodinal using agitation. Now I'm trying to use the university's CPP-2 for rotary development. I tried using both Diafine (Tri-X @ 1200) and Rodinal 1:50 (Fomapan 100) for 4x5 and it appears to be ok. Anyone objections to using Diafine or Rodinal with HP5 as rotary development in the Jobo 2850? I've seen some beautiful scans of FP4+ in X-tol. I might consider this in the future. I have access to D-76 (loved it with Ilford Pan 100) and have some of Sandy King's Pyro PMK, that has yet to be used. On the bottle it says not to use it in Print Drums.


I think that's about it.

Overall, I'm really excited to be joining the crowd of ULF users.

Lee

[Lachlan 717]

Lens? Loupe?

[photoevangelist]

Camera came with a lens.

Lens: Rodenstock Sironar-N 1:8,4 480mm MC. The lens came separate in the mail today. It's HUGE. I love it! I might also try the Dagor 12" f6.8. Recommendations?

Loupe: I've only ever used my eyes for initial focusing and an Agfa 8X Lupe for 4x5. I think it's meant for 35mm contact prints and slides, but it's worked for me. I'm a noob here. Should I invest in a better loope?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/

[Lachlan 717]

Camera came with a lens.

Lens: Rodenstock Sironar-N 1:8,4 480mm MC. The lens came separate in the mail today. It's HUGE. I love it! I might also try the Dagor 12" f6.8. Recommendations?

Loupe: I've only ever used my eyes for initial focusing and an Agfa 8X Lupe for 4x5. I think it's meant for 35mm contact prints and slides, but it's worked for me. I'm a noob here. Should I invest in a better loope?

That loupe will be fine. It might be a little too strong/powerful if anything (depending on the GG replacement's quality).

That IS a huge lens. I'd recommend checking its weight on the end of camera before I committed to keeping it. I have a Nikkor 450mm for my 7x17, along with a 355mm G Claron and 240mm Computar. As for the 12" Dagor, I seem to recall that it might cover when really stopped down. Perhaps search for that? 12"/305mm is a semi wide on 7x17.

Any dark cloth is suitable, as long as it darkens the image enough, and allows you to get far enough away from the GG to see the whole image. As a suggestion, I'd consider getting a piece that is about twice your arm length. This will allow you to drape it over the front of the rear standard, as well as over the back of your head.

I use both Jobo 2800 tanks (I have 2), as well as an Expert 3063 tank on a CPP-2 processor. I just use Tetenal Ultrafin developer. Cheap, simple to use and, being one-shot, repeatable. The D-76 should be fine, as is Xtol. Freestyle still has some 7x17 in 100asa in stock if you need some; however, I like HP5+ as it gives 2 extra stops' speed. Important when you're shooting at f64!!

Feel free to send me a private message if you want to ask any other questions!

[Doug Howk]

For film holders, I have an S&S as well as couple of older holders. The S&S got a mediocre review in View Camera some time ago, but mine seems OK as long as I keep the darkclothe draped over back (light leaks). You might also consider holders by AWB http://www.filmholders.com/ I believe there also can be some differences in specifications for 7X17 holders for different cameras (no standard).
For GG, I use Steve Hopf glass, see http://www.hopfglass.com/

[photoevangelist]

Wow, their film holders are about $100 dollars more.

I contacted Steve Hopt today, waiting for a response. No surprise since I'm on the opposite side of the world. Thanks for your recommendations. Do you use F&S 7x17?

Forgot to mention case/bag. What do you all recommend?

[Louis Pacilla]

Wow, their film holders are about $100 dollars more.

I contacted Steve Hopt today, waiting for a response. No surprise since I'm on the opposite side of the world. Thanks for your recommendations. Do you use F&S 7x17?

Forgot to mention case/bag. What do you all recommend?

Hey Photoevangelist, You may want to wait on the camera to see if the back has been modified to accept the newer ANIS holders. If not then it probably has the original back that takes the F&S property holders which are different the the former. this way you don't buy holders you can't use.

I have two very nice F&S 7x17 's (don't ask) that both have not been modified and I opted to leave the cameras as original and I had Sandy (S&S) manufacture a few holders to match the original F&S specs.

So if your camera has not been modified you'll have to make this decision if you want add more holders. you have a few choices. One is to have Richard Ritter modify your camera back to accept the ANSI holders. You'll have to send the camera out for this.

The next route is look for original F&S 7x17 holders which come up for sell but not very often, though I have found two nice 7x17 F&S holders to date.

If you opt for the route I took then you can simply send the original holder to S&S or ABS or Lotus and maybe Chamonix and they can manufacture the holders to match the F&S holder. As I recall the price for each holder was the same as Sandy's list prices. So no extra charge for the custom work.

I have NO trouble with my S&S holders leaking light. Period.

I can try and post photos of the S&S holders as well as the original F&S if this helps explain this better then my text does.

BTW My 12" Dagor covers 7x17 at about f32-45 and has a tiny bit of room left over for movements like a bit of tilt and swing but not much so go easy.

BTW2 I agree that while the 480 Sironar is impressive in size it's certainly a bit heavy to hang on the F&S. I bet you could easily sell this and pick up a Nikkor M450 which is a stellar lens on this camera. If you do it right you should have a few dollars left over towards your new holders. Pretty sure the 480 may get a bit more then the Nikkor can be had for.

[Doug Howk]

For carrying my Korona 7X17 camera, I use a Pelican 1600 case.
For carrying 3 filmholders, I have a customized padded case from AWB.

[andreios]

Photoevangelist, sadly I can't give you any advice, since I don't own a F&S 7x17, just wanted to congratulate to such a camera purchase! This is a format that is always in the back of my mind as a penultimate ULF format - the ultimate being 12x20.. I wish you many negatives that will make you happy.

[Jim Noel]

I recently purchased a 7x17 Folmer & Schwing. It's in customs now and will be delivered on Monday. I'm so excited I can hardly stand it! However, I've encountered a slight misfortune with the ground glass.

Needs:

Ground Glass - The ground glass was shattered during shipment. Where could I get good quality ground glass of this size? I think I'd like one with the grid lines.

Tripod - I have limited access (maybe overnight and weekend usage only and not all of them are functioning) to a large Gitzo at the university I'm employed at. I'm seriously looking into a Berlebach 3032 for personal use. Yeas or Nays on that one? Seems affordable and could potentially support this camera. Might be interested in shooting a few 7x17 vertical with the FS. Would a tripod head be helpful or necessary?

It is necessary to make some kind of adapter other than just a tilt head in order to turn this camera vertical. It was designed as a horizontal format only.

Get a Ries with single tilt head. More strength for the weight, not hot in summer, or cold in winter.

Film Holders: The camera includes one holder. I'm eyeballing one or two additional S&S film holders.

Good idea to have 2 or 3 holders. 4 holders, 8 shots, is a full day with a camera of this size.

Focusing Cloth: There's a cloth market very near. I'm thinking about having one made. What would be a large enough size for this 7x17 monster camera?
Mine is 5x8 feet. I got it years ago because my 4x5 footer was just too small.


Have:

Film: I've purchased the last box of HP5+ in 7x17 from Midwest Photo. 25 sheets should be enough to do me until Ilford's ULF 2013 order. Even if it doesn't I've got some tricks up my sleeves for some possibly interesting alternatives.

Film Sleeves: 100 7x17 from Climax Photo

Film Processing: Recently purchased a Jobo 2850 to use with the university's Jobo CPP-2. Tank says it only needs 200 ml of developer. Seems very low. Any suggestions on how to process the film flawlessly?

200 ml of chemistry is insufficient for the film area. The tube is designed for color prints. You need a minimum of 7 ounces of concentrated developer. If you are diluting 1+1 that makes a total of 14 ounces of developer. I sometime use a liter of HC110 Dilution "A" to get the necessary contrast for alternative prints. Most of my development is done using Pyrocat HD. I use 1 1/2 liters for two sheets. Never skimp on developer - exhaustion will catch up with you when you try to develop your "Moonrise" with inadequate quantity.
You may have problems with lines showing up on the processed film. One or two sheets at a time in a tray work best for me. Actually I can hand like up to 4 sheets at a time but none of my students have ever been able to do so therefore I don't teach it.

Developer: For the majority of my 35mm and 120 work, I've been using Diafine and Rodinal using agitation. Now I'm trying to use the university's CPP-2 for rotary development. I tried using both Diafine (Tri-X @ 1200) and Rodinal 1:50 (Fomapan 100) for 4x5 and it appears to be ok. Anyone objections to using Diafine or Rodinal with HP5 as rotary development in the Jobo 2850? I've seen some beautiful scans of FP4+ in X-tol. I might consider this in the future. I have access to D-76 (loved it with Ilford Pan 100) and have some of Sandy King's Pyro PMK, that has yet to be used. On the bottle it says not to use it in Print Drums.
PMK oxidizes too rapidly and thus loses strength when used in a rotating drum. It does a beautiful job on FP4+ in a tray. I suggest you begin with D-76. Use it straight in order to get the contrast you will need to print on chloride contact papers or any of the alternative processes. Messing around with a large variety of developers is the downfall of many photographers. Learn the qualities of one or two and stick with them for a year or so. at least.


I think that's about it.

Overall, I'm really excited to be joining the crowd of ULF users.

Lee