Choosing an 8x10 folding camera

[vvplem]

No architecture for sure. But the point of LF for me is to stay creative and experiment. It's hard to be more precise than in my original post because I'm not looking to limit myself to one type of picture and what I'm looking for is a versatile tool to experiment. 1:1 close ups with some comfortable working distance from the subject is something I will do for sure. I also would like to have fun with some old WA lens with lots of distortion and 100mm seems a bit long...
Again Deardorff seems to me as the best choice for the most beautiful camera (and I'm very sensitive to that) but not necessarily the best tool...

[vvplem]

Gem, thanks for your answer. Could I please ask you to specify what you like dislike about the Canhams? The traditional seems like a very interesting choice how do you feel about smoothness of operation and movement possibilities overall? Thanks!

[E. von Hoegh]

A 100mm lens with movements is going to be a problem on any folding 8x10 and most monorails (unless you use a bag bellows). Straight-on, that is using no movements, most cameras will accept a 100mm lens - some might need a recessed lensboard.
A 300mm lens will give you 1:1 at a 2 foot lens to subject distance and a two foot bellows extension.

Have you looked at the homepage of this site? There's a link in the upper left of the screen just below "What's New?".

[georgl]

Switched from Sinar F to a Canham - never looked back. It's not less sturdy than the Chinese wood cameras but better built. Ebony and high-end-metal studio cameras might be better but heavier and expensive.
Deardorff depends on condition - many used ones are ruined by unprofessional repairs.

What annoys me with older cameras (Deardorff or my Sinar F) are the ridiculously dim groundglasses! You have to replace them! How can you work with that? You can barely see anything in daylight at f5.6! The Canham (or other modern screens) is easily 5 or 6 stops brighter!

I've handled various Shen Haos on PK - in no way comparable to an Ebony - you get what you pay for...

[E. von Hoegh]

Switched from Sinar F to a Canham - never looked back. It's not less sturdy than the Chinese wood cameras but better built. Ebony and high-end-metal studio cameras might be better but heavier and expensive.
Deardorff depends on condition - many used ones are ruined by unprofessional repairs.

What annoys me with older cameras (Deardorff or my Sinar F) are the ridiculously dim groundglasses! You have to replace them! How can you work with that? You can barely see anything in daylight at f5.6! The Canham (or other modern screens) is easily 5 or 6 stops brighter!

I've handled various Shen Haos on PK - in no way comparable to an Ebony - you get what you pay for...

I use something called a "darkcloth" and the original Deardorff GG. I use no fresnel or other gadgets. I can focus comfortably a f:9.5 Artar in fair light, and I can focus all my other lenses at the working aperture of 16 or 22.

[Bill_1856]

I recommend that you buy a used 4x5 camera (such as the Tachihara orShen Hao) from a dealer such as KEH or Midwest Photo, with a "standard" 150mm (or 135mm or 180mm) lens, and a couple of film holders. Use it for 3 months, then if you're still in the mood for an 8x10 you can discover what is really important to you, and will be able to resell it for little or no loss.
There's no substitute for personal experience -- 90% of the advice you'll get on a forum is shear opinion, and worth exactly what you pay. (That includes advice from me.)

[E. von Hoegh]

I recommend that you buy a used 4x5 camera (such as the Tachihara orShen Hao) from a dealer such as KEH or Midwest Photo, with a "standard" 150mm (or 135mm or 180mm) lens, and a couple of film holders. Use it for 3 months, then if you're still in the mood for an 8x10 you can discover what is really important to you, and will be able to resell it for little or no loss.
There's no substitute for personal experience -- 90% of the advice you'll get on a forum is shear opinion, and worth exactly what you pay. (That includes advice from me.)

This, actually, is better advice than my advice to get a 'dorff.

[Cletus]

I'll chime in too, on the sensible advice to work with 4x5 for a bit first. It's fairly inexpensive to get started in and most of the accoutrements, with the exception of film holders and possibly lenses, will carry over to the larger format. I know you want a folding field, but you could get into a 4x5 Sinar F system for a few hundred bucks, or a Cambo for even less and thus, answer all your own questions (better then anyone here could do, by experiencing it yourself) about movements and what's important for the way you work. A Sinar 4x5 is almost as lightweight and compact as a field camera and has pretty much ALL movements available for a view camera. I've been down the exact road you plan to take, BTW...

With that said, I recently picked up a brand new Shen Hao FCL810-A and it's truly a beautiful camera. There's nothing cheap or 'Chinese' about it and believe me, I was looking! All of the controls, knobs, focusing rack, etc., are buttery smooth and perfect and while I've not personally fondled an Ebony, I can't imagine there would be a big difference. Movements are ample, but it's still a folding field, so back movements are somewhat limited, but front makes up for much of it.

It was a very close call between the Shen Hao and the Chamonix for me, but ultimately the Shen Hao won out on price and with a few more features than the Chamonix. I also have a Sinar F 8x10, which obviously has more movements, but I haven't used it once since I got the Shen Hao.

Last thing - if you ever handled the Shen Hao 4x5 field, the HZX IIA or whatever, the one with the black hardware, which was my old camera. It was also of good quality and build, but nowhere near the FCL810. I was pleasantly surprised at how much more attention to detail and finish and hardware the 8x10 is. Highly recommended camera!

[Ari]

Better still, ask your friendly camera store for a rental; try a few cameras and decide from there.

I'm thinking of going back into 8x10, for reasons similar to yours.
A Kodak Master View is the camera I'm considering because it is metal, has plenty of movements, and folds up nicely.
I will likely borrow a friend's this coming week for a test drive.
The only drawback to the KMV is its price; a decent specimen will run easily over $1000, so I may have to settle for something else.

[vvplem]

Thank you for the advice about 4x5, I appreciate what you mean, but I know that much that the projects I have in mind will be in 8x10 and don't feel like wasting time and money on a 4x5. Celtus and georgl thanks! it's exactly what I'm looking for, personal experience with the cameras I've mentioned. Thank you again E. for your comments on close ups and WA I clearly don't think LF yet so that helps!