BTZS and Blue streaks, also drying issues.

[gmed]

I just did my first development for the film testing, and at the end, I had blue streaks on few of the films right where the film would bend in the middle. I did fix for 10 minutes, but Im not sure why I still have a pinkish color on the films and blue streak on 3 of them. Do I perhaps need more than 10 minutes? The fixer is Kodak fixer, freshly mixed.

also how do you dry so that blotches from the hangers arent left on the film? I didnt do the extra steps required (LFN or Photo-Flo) because this is for testing, but I did hang them with the hangers, but I have gel like blotches on the edges.

How do you get clean films? I dont want to get frustrated, but Im hoping I can get a hang of this.

[gmed]

From what Im reading, it may be that I under-fixed the films. Does this mean I can fix for more than 10 minutes?

Is there such thing as over-fixing?

[Robert Hall]

Do you have a picture of the streaks?

[gmed]

I don't. I shipped it back for testing.

[gmed]

Anyone?

[david.jade]

I've found that sometimes solutions don't get behind film when in the tubes. This doesn't affect development but it can make the back of the film base harder to clear. Using a hypo clear helps as does washing for an extended time. Fred should know how to deal with this if it is severe enough to affect the tests. It can just be re-washed and/or re-fixed to help it clear up.

[Andrew O'Neill]

You are removing the film from the tube before fixing, right?

[Bruce Pottorff]

I had the same problem, until I switched to VERY fresh rapid fixer.

[Larry H-L]

After they come out of the fixer in the tubes, just put them in a tray with fresh fix for a few minutes, the anti-halation backing dye will come off. Kodak T-Max films can be extra stubborn.

Pre soaking may also help.

[Shen45]

As David said some films don't allow developer to get to the back of the film and you can have a streak down the middle of the film. Foma has a very stubborn anti halation backing which even in very fresh fixer is not always removed. After the film has been fixed normally and if the stain is still present rinse the film free of the fixer and return it to a small tray that you have kept the spent [conventional] developer you have used. The backing will be removed very quickly without any effort. If you are uncomfortable at using spent developer mix up a solution of Sodium sulphite and water 50gms/litre and use that. The Sulphite solution can be used many times. If you are using a Pyrogalloll based developer most Alkali after bath treatments can tend to increase overall stain. Using a final soak of Sodium Sulphite didn't appear to adversely increase or decrease the stain of the PMK negatives.