meter of choice?

[Chris Strobel]

I owned a Minolta Spot Meter F and a Pentax digital spot meter. Since I only wanted the meter for zone system usage the various "features" of the Minolta made it unduly complicated for me. I preferred the Pentax for its simplicity. And while it does only one thing it does that very well. Since you have a digital camera I'm not sure why you'd want a flash meter.

And I'm on the flip side of the coin.Had the Pentax digital spot meter and found all the little numbers on the rings confusing. The Minolta was way more intuitive for me, but I'm missing the left side of my brain

[rince]

For flash/studio work I use my sekonic l-358 for everything else it would be my Soligor Sensor-2.

[Michael Kadillak]

Does this mean you're not a geek anymore?

I have only owned Sekonic spot meters (the L408 and now the L608). As Frank said, the displays can be a bit busy for my taste (especially the 608), but that's mainly because the meters do so much more than I need. I like the simplicity of the Pentax spot meter.

Mike touches on an important point. Meter first using your head. I sometimes carry a small pocket meter (Sekonic L188) as a training exercise. Wherever I am (walking, on a bus), I guess the meter reading and then test myself to see if I'm right. That way, if I need to photograph something quickly and don't have time to meter, I'm much more likely to guess correctly. And in general shooting, I just don't need to use the meter as often as I used to.

Well done. I believe Tony that we we grow older and more experienced the geek in all of us diminishes somewhat. LF and ULF cameras users have a perception among the general public that the person under the dark cloth is several cuts above the auto point and shoot crowd in their choice in making images, but the proof of this is in the prints.

Back to the metering issue. I find that statistically a device that measures the intensity of the light and averages it has a higher frequency for me of producing acceptable results quicker as long as one can make the determination as to how the shadow areas should be handled. It allows "interpretation" of how a specific situation should be handled and forces the photographer to use their eyes more in the process. I find it also reduces the errors I experienced with my spot meter from flare and rapidly changing lighting conditions. Occasionally I check a sky with a spot meter just to be sure but it is becoming much more infrequent. Making exposures should be an issue of memory.

Ask someone what their base exposure is for their favorite film for a mid day normal exposure. If they have to think about it I put odds that their spot meter is a significant part of their image making process and they have places such emphasis on the center circle that they become overly reliant on it. A $25 gossen analog incident meter is all you really need.

[Doremus Scudder]

I've got three Pentax digital spot meters (but only the readout is digital ). I use them for everything except flash. The few flash exposures I make are calculated the old-fashioned way using guide numbers and distance measurements. If I did more flash, then I'd get an incident/flash meter as well.

If you need flash metering, get something that will do all you need. If you don't, then I recommend the Pentax too. Maybe you need two meters?

Best,

Doremus

[premortho]

My God, I didn't realize how far behind the curve and uncool I am. I'm ashamed to admit that not only do I use a Weston 11, I actually like it!! For flash I use bulbs (!) and guide numbers. I use the Weston for photofloods.

[Michael Kadillak]

My God, I didn't realize how far behind the curve and uncool I am. I'm ashamed to admit that not only do I use a Weston 11, I actually like it!! For flash I use bulbs (!) and guide numbers. I use the Weston for photofloods.

You are not far behind the curve at all. I actually have four spot meters that I rarely ever use. I figure with Pentax out of business for some time now they are appreciating in value. My two Spectra combi 500's are my mainstay and they do their job well.

[Atul Mohidekar]

I used an entry-level Nikon DSLR for long time but got tired of carrying its bulk and weight. I then bought Sekonic L758R which like very much.

[alexn]

I have just made the move from using my Nikon D2X on spot meter mode with a 200mm lens to a Pentax spot.. So far I have been more confident with my exposures, and more pleased with the results I have seen. What I've appreciated most is going from a 1.6kg DSLR + Lens, and horrible calculations...

I shoot ISO 50 film, my Nikon only goes to ISO 100, on top of that, I usually shoot at sunset/sunrise so for the nikon to even give me a reading I need to have it wide open at F/4 and have it at ISO 400~800.

So the calulation I used to do would be say, 4sec @ F/4 ISO 400 conveted to F/22 @ ISO 50. By the time you calculate in your head that it works out to 16 minutes, then work out the reciprocity failure, the light has changed and you need to re-meter and start again.

The Pentax digital spot has changed the way I shoot from a paniced rush to a calm contemplative workflow. Its SO simple, one button.. Point, press the button, set your shutter and fire off your shot... Simple as that...

I'll be buying a backup Pentax meter as a just incase too.

[chassis]

I use a Sekonic L-758DR and like it. It has spot and incident capability. Fairly widely available used (got mine locally on craigslist).

[buggz]

Wow, what a great place this is!
I thank everyone for your time, and the valuable information and shared experiences.
I am now leaning more towards a two meter solution.
First, the venerable, Pentax Spot.
Then later sometime, a Sekonic.
Thanks again!