Buidling a field camera - fabricating the metal parts

[David R Munson]

So I've finished drawing up plans for the wooden components of the 7x17" I want to build and am now turning my attention to the metal components. Creating the metal bits appears to be a bit more challenging than the wooden parts. Specifically, I'm referring to the metal standards for the front and back. The basic design is modeled after my Deardorff 8x10, and the metal components will be following that lead. Cutting the pieces to shape shouldn't be a problem, and I figure I can make a basic jig for bending the metal parts. Slotting is another thing entirely, though. Not quite sure where to start with that.

Anybody have any suggestions for how to go about this? I'll have a good variety of power and hand tools at my disposal. I've thought about taking some of it to a local machine shop, but I get the feeling that it would be more trouble and cost than it's worth. Suggestions are much appreciated.

[Frank Petronio]

Microtools.com has many small camera parts. Also consider buying a broken down old camera and stealing parts from it.

[John Downie]

www.mircotools.com is just a "search" site, as far as I can see.

[Ernest Purdum]

Very early brass and wood cameras had metal parts that were sawed out. Do you have a variable speed jigsaw? Or one that is belt driven so that you can change pulleys, or has a "universal" motor so that you can use an electronic variable speed control?



The traditional method of making a slot is to drill holes at each end, thread the blade through one of the holes, saw until close to a previously scribed line, then file to exact size. It's not easy, but it works. (Only on brass or soft aluminum, of course.)



For what it's worth, slots are pesky even in a well-equipped machine shop. To get it right, you have to drill the holes, then put in a milling cutter smaller than the drill bit and mill each side of the slot separately. Unless done very carefully, preferably with the aid of a digital readout, you then find out that the straight parts of your slot don't perfectly match the holes.

[tim atherton]

you need

www.micro-tools.com

or the home site

http://www.fargo-ent.com/

[jnantz]

hi dave

you might also want to check out the cameramakers mailing list there are folks there that make just about everything under the sun

http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers

good luck!

-john

[Todd West]

> Anybody have any suggestions for how to go about this?

I'm still saving up to buy it (keep finding good deals on lenses ;~), but I'm planning to use a Sherline 5410A milling machine (www.sherline.com). It wouldn't be all that hard to cobble something together in aluminum using a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade (I have a Tenryu 100T TCG Alumnicut---sweet blade), some jigs, and hand drills, but a vertical mill is really the appropriate tool for the job.

If you go to a local machine shop or somebody like Acratech (www.acratech.net) it'll be cheapest to give them dimensioned drawings of what you want them to build and make it a plug and chug exercise. Cost won't be all that much lower than buying a Sherline, though.

[Steve Hamley]

David,

Call me silly but why don't you get a "dead" Deardorff or other camera and rework the hardware for the 7x17? Seems easier than making all of it yourself from scratch.

Thanks!

Steve

[Mark Fisher]

I've lurked around here thinking about doing the large format thing...figure I should contribute where I can.....

For the amount you need to do, you could use a jeweler's saw (sort of like a coping saw, but for metal)or a hack saw. You start by drilling a hole on either end the slot and file the hole long enough to get a hacksaw blade in. This would not be necessary with a jewelers saw. With either type of saw, you remove the blade from the frame, thread it though the hole, and reattach the blade to saw frame. Also, don't saw to the line (at least my line would not be straight enough!). Saw just short of the line and file the rest. Go slow and it will work out well.

[Jim Galli]

You should start with a mid '60's Burke and James 8X10 like Butch Welch did on his projects. Hey! I just happen to have one and it's for sale! And it's cheap too. What a lucky coincidence. :>))