Harman Direct Positive Images

[MAubrey]

Just bought 6 boxes of 4x5. Do you think this paper is here to stay for a while?

Ilford seems to be runs for it on a semi regular basis. It isn't always in stock, but there hasn't been any suggestion that they're going to stop making it.

[Tin Can]

RC which I prefer in this paper has been off market in USA for some time.

[Willie]

Seeing the developer questions it seems that like film, everyone has a favorite.
Anyone try Amidol developers? Maybe using a water bath to control highlights?
The developer works so well with silver chloride contact printing papers, maybe with the direct positive paper?

[devinnamaky]

I started using this paper recently for pinholes with the kids... we were using D-76 with baking soda added to develop them at 6 minutes at first because that's all I had. They never went totally black with that mix.

I finally picked up some Dektol and loaded some of the DPP into the Intrepid to try and figure out the ISO. ASA of 3 worked best for me.

This is f/32 for 10 minutes with the Fujinon 210 5.6 lens:

[MAubrey]

Seeing the developer questions it seems that like film, everyone has a favorite.
Anyone try Amidol developers? Maybe using a water bath to control highlights?
The developer works so well with silver chloride contact printing papers, maybe with the direct positive paper?

Just remember that controlling highlights on a negative, becomes controlling shadows with Harman DP.

[mvanderaa]

Hello All: Great images and really fun paper to experiment with. I'm wondering if anyone has experience toning Harman's direct positive paper? I found John Olsen's post whereby he used selenium, but curious if anyone else has tried any type of toning?

[Too Many Cameras]

I've been experimenting with DPP lately and different developing techniques. Below I have some photos that represent multiple techniques. Camera and developing data are provided for reference.


Gibellini Proxima, Yamasaki 90mm f/6.3 @f/16, one second. Developed in a daylight tank, Ilfosol 3+60, stand

To show that the colors weren't a fluke, here's a second shot developed the same way:

Same camera and lens, but f/32 and 12 seconds on the exposure time.


Rodinal=100, stand. Graflex Anniversary Graphic and Caltar (Schneider) 210mm f/5.6 @f/5.6 for 1/8. The negative had a yellow tint but lacked any blue coloration in the highlights, as compared to the Ilfosol 3 1+60 samples


Recognizing that DPP is paper, I do also develop it as paper. Here's a sample in Dektol+2 for approx. 2 minutes. This was taken in a home-made curved-plane pinhole camera with a 143mm fl and 0.4mm pinhole for 4 minutes.

I've also developed this in Caffenol (which makes the photos very sepia tone) and I think D-76. I don't have any scans yet, but I've also tried Dektol+7 with and without an intermittent water bath to control contrast. I think that Dektol+7 is currently my preferred method and that it yields consistent and good results.

[Tin Can]

Is the color from the scan?

I scan B&W film as color film and it produces some interesting color digital images

Or are you getting these results from DPP and creating the image with a digital camera without.....

[richydicky]

Wow, TooMany, those are fantastic especially the Ilfosol ones I love the effect. The colours remind me of the weird tones you can get on lumen prints.

I was recently working with DPP on a project and had some up in an exhibition. I came to the conclusion that experimentation with developer is required. On the assignment I only had PQ and Dektol but at the end I happened to have a pack of Foma PW developer which did give very warm tones and more controlled contrast but never reached full black. That led me to start thinking about slower developers, Foma is glycin based. I'm back home now so can experiment but it is not a good time of year for light.

[Too Many Cameras]

Is the color from the scan?

Nope. That's how the print looks. I digitize with a DSLR and macro lens, generally illuminated from below as well as the sides because I like the way that the paper texture complements some images (I don't illuminae from below if the paper texture doesn't complement the image.) The colors are just the way that the photos looked coming out of the tanks. I suspect that i overexposed the images a bit, which could have contributed to the coloration.