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Thread: Harman Direct Positive Images

  1. #521
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    Like time shifting people fading as stone remain

    Excellent!
    Tin Can

  2. #522

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    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Can View Post
    Like time shifting people fading as stone remain

    Excellent!
    There were a lot of people and decided to use ND filter for getting 60s exposure.
    Thanks for comment

  3. #523

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    Harman Direct Positive Images

    Another using HDPP. Same development process.

  4. #524
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    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    How exactly are you doing the preflash?
    Tin Can

  5. #525

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    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Can View Post
    How exactly are you doing the preflash?
    I am using two techniques:
    - Photo to the sky (when is cloudy), unfocusing as much as possible and compensating -5 steps of light.
    - Photo to a white paper sheet, unfocusing as much as possible and compensating -5 steps of light
    For this last photo I have used the second one

  6. #526
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    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    Thank you!
    Tin Can

  7. #527

    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    I read that I should shoot within 1 to 2 hours after pre-flash, and process within 1 to 2 hours after shooting.
    Is it true?

    -- https://www.shutterbug.com/content/h...format-dpp-one
    Chamonix 45N-2, Chamonix 45H-1

  8. #528

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    Harman Direct Positive Images

    Quote Originally Posted by younghoon Kil View Post
    I read that I should shoot within 1 to 2 hours after pre-flash, and process within 1 to 2 hours after shooting.
    Is it true?

    -- https://www.shutterbug.com/content/h...format-dpp-one
    Not in my case. Some photos were preflashed one day before and I did not see differences.
    I normally process the same day or the day after

  9. #529

    Re: Harman Direct Positive Images

    Thank you!
    Chamonix 45N-2, Chamonix 45H-1

  10. #530

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    Harman Direct Positive Images

    Most important parameters according to my experience:
    - To “Calibrate” the boxes with the first photos to see the ISO. In my case ISO 5
    - To measure the exposition. In my case I measure the dark part of the photo I need and I send to zone III. No the darker part. The light normally is in zone V. Any error in this part is giving a poor result, because the photo is unique and into the computer is another one
    - Development is normal, repeating every time the successful process:

    Ilford multi grade 1+9, 3 min
    Stop bath with water and Kodak stop bath 1+450, 1 min
    Kodak Tmax fixer 1+4, 3.5 min

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