Newbie, jumping in with Arca Swiss

[Scott Jackson]

Okay, I'll bite....

I'm a longtime photography enthusiast who took his first formal photography course this summer at PCNW in Seattle. First experience developing my own film, though I have had an SLR since the late 90s and a DSLR since 2006. I liked shooting black and white and developing the film, but 35mm doesn't allow for much enlargement, and I'd like to continue exploring film, but with an eye towards shooting some real keepers and not being constrained by roll film, enlargement limitations, or lack of perspective control (I hate shooting buildings/architecture with an SLR).

So.... after several years of lurking on sites like this one and others sniffing the LF wind, I've decided to actually purchase a camera and do some of this now that I have a clue on how to develop (and only a clue -- not an expert at all yet). I'm also planning on taking the next PCNW BW II class, so I'll get a chance to put it through the paces testing film and expanding my skills.

At this exact moment, I've purchased a used Arca Swiss F-Classic from B&H, and it hasn't yet arrived. I have yet to purchase a lens for it, as I'm still struggling to figure out all the different lines of Rodenstock & Schneider, as well as figure out the older lenses that permeate eBay. I'm interested in being able to shoot architecture and hike a little to shoot landscape. The architecture would seem to argue for a lens that allows plenty of movement with a large image circle. Overall, lenses seem a bit intimidating because I've seen quite a number on eBay with ages (I'm talking Schneiders) that are often 50 years old, some which *don't* use standard Copal shutters (I've seen Compur, which AS doesn't seem to make lensboards for?), and a friend of mine from class is also new and talks about needing a center-spot ND filter for one of his used lenses.....so while I'm not exactly tiptoeing in by getting an AS, I'm still working on putting my rig together. Just picked up a Sekonic light meter, and if I'm reading the specs on my new camera correctly, I'll actually be able to get away using my existing Manfrotto tripod with a 410 geared head on top, since my camera should be less than 11 lbs when all together.

Meanwhile, I've got a lot of reading to do.

I'll try to be judicious about searching the posts for answers without re-asking the questions. If you're in Seattle, and you see a tall guy fidgeting with an Arca Swiss at Gasworks, the Space Needle, or bumbling downtown in the coming weeks -- feel free to give me some pointers!

Thanks,

Scott

[engl]

Welcome!

Regarding what lenses you can use with the AS lens boards, the number in the shutter name stands for the size, and these are pretty much standardized. You will most likely be looking at lenses with shutters of size #0, #1 and #3. All the #0 and #1 are the same size and will fit the same board, and most #3 are too. There is something about old Copal #3 being different size, perhaps someone else can fill you in.

Regarding lenses, there is indeed a lot to choose from, but it is easy to buy great ones. If it is made by "The Big Four" (Fuji, Rodenstock, Nikon, Schneider) and fairly recent and multicoated, you will not be disappointed. Older lenses also have very high potential, but quality is less even and personally I would not want to use a single coated lens for the urban and architecture photography I do at night (lots of light sources in the frame).

For architecture, the bigger the image circle, the better. If you have a lot of money the choice is simple, buy lenses from the Schneider Super Angulon XL range. At a considerably lower cost, and with a slightly smaller image circle, the big four all have lenses of very similar optical design and performance. These are Fuji SWD, Nikon SW, Rodenstock Grandagon and Schneider Super Angulons. You'll be happy with either of these. The faster versions of the lenses generally have bigger image circles. One that stands out is the Nikon 90mm F8 which has as big of an image circles as the F4.5 and F6.8 lenses of the other makers, and a bigger image circle than the F8 lenses from the competitors.

90mm is a quite common focal length for architecture, get one from the above series and bag bellows for your camera and you are ready to go. You might want a compact 150/5.6 plasmat (Fuji N/NW/CM-W, Nikon W, Rodenstock Sironar-N/S/W, Schneider Symmar-S/APO Symmar) for general use, landscape etc. They are very inexpensive and very good.

[Brian Ellis]

"Architecture" is a pretty broad term. What kind are you doing - interiors, exteriors, residential, commercial, real estate ads - and for whom - architects, real estate agents, home owners, contractors, yourself? For pay or for hobby?

If you're thinking of doing this for paying clients my understanding from reading Kirk Gittings' posts here and from my own observations is that most commercial architectural photographers use digital cameras, often with a tilt-shift lens. So you'll be going against the grain and doing something most clients aren't used to if you use a LF camera and film.

If you're thinking of this as a hobby don't start worrying about every lens out there, just buy a 75mm or 90mm f5.6 lens made by Rodenstock, Schneider, Nikon, or Fuji that's in a Copal shutter for starters. For your first lens I'd suggest buying from a reliable, well-known dealer in used lenses such as MidWest Photo Exchange or KEH rather than ebay. I also wouldn't suggest a real old lens as your first because you probably don't know what questions to ask or what to look out for right now.

[jayabbas]

Welcome to the world of sheet film -- fun and festive most times. I concur with Brian; ask questions of the well known dealers. A great many feebay sellers puff and fluff lenses into the stratosphere. The people on this forum will steer you well and Arca Swiss for a 1st LF -- nice pick !!!

[Scott Jackson]

Thanks for the help. Sounds like very reasonable advice WRT eBay. I'm inclined for the moment just to get one normal lens (150mm) and play with that to get familiar and actually make a functional camera. I've been reading about the importance of the large image circle associated with a 90mm lens, and a friend here in Seattle has a 72mm on his AS w/ a recessed lensboard that he has difficulty getting much movement on, even with a bag bellows, so I'm unlikely to go smaller.

My thought on architecture is outdoors shooting it, and as a hobby -- I don't yet have the competency to manipulate the shifts/swings/tilts to go pro. Maybe down the road. I have an otherwise excellent shot of a friend and his wife taken with my SLR of them sitting on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial in DC, and it drives me nuts looking at the converging lines. Presently I'll be shooting film, too, since I'm inclined to learn more about that process (B&W negative for the near term). I think I'm a long way from a digital back (though I like digital generally).

Thanks for the kick-off. I'll check out KEH and MidWest -- I don't think I've actually been to their sites despite being aware of them.

Scott

[Frank Petronio]

A Rodenstock 90/4.5 Grandagon-N is a really nice general architecture and landscape lens, about as wide as a 28mm on your 35mm camera. These cost $450 - $700 depending on mood and whimsy.

A Rodenstock 210/5.6 Sironar-N (or later Sironar-S) is a nice moderate long-normal, about like a 65mm... These are plentiful and not very expensive, maybe $350 for a nice clean example but sometimes only $200 will purchase the same thing.

These make a nice combo and are considered "modern". You can use them for your entire career as a view camera photographer, it would be splitting hairs to find anything better. Schneider, Fuji, and Nikon also made similar, high quality lenses in the same lengths, half-a-stop slower in the case of the 90mm from Schneider and Fuji (90/5.6).

They come mostly in black Copal 1 shutters, which are fine. The black Compur shutters of the same vintage are actually better quality German shutters, just not as popular in the USA, but don't sneer at them in favor of the lessor (IMHO) Copals.

I'd also look into getting a Fuji Instant film back and a stock of Fuji Instant - it certainly is a great learning and proofing tool. As is your digital camera.

While the Manfrotto tripod and 410 head is probably just fine, one of the nice things about an Arca-Swiss camera's base rail is how nicely it slips into the Arca-Swiss clamps on their lovely ball heads. I am not a big fan of their plates being used on every camera, but when it is an Arca-Swiss camera, it sure is smooth and seamless to use an Arca-Swiss head.

You can also get a nice Arca-Swiss compatible clamp to mount onto the 410 head, some people here have done some more elaborate modifications to make the clamp integrate with the head better.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

Hello from Besançon, France !
Welcome to tha Arca Swiss Club !

Do not hesitate to ask any question you would have related to the Arca Swiss system, and if I do not know the answer, the people at Arca Swiss just nearby where I live will know for sure ;-)

I do not know whether you'll get an older "171 mm" F-line camera or a more recent "141 mm". 171 and 141 refer to the size of the frames and lens boards in millimeters.
For 171 mm F-line models you'll find used spare parts ( bellows, lens boards, ..) more easily than the most recent 141 series. Most accessories are compatible between 141 and 171 series.

Have fun !!