Minus Development versus Stand Development

[Michael Graves]

I'm looking for the best way to photograph a high-contrast subject using 8x10 HP5 film. I've had some success using stand development in the past, but occassionally get a bit of mottling in areas of even tone. However, my experience with minus-development using HC110 has been less than optimum. Has anyone done a direct comparison of minus versus stand? Ordinarily, I'd just burn a couple of film holders full of film and try it myself. Only I'm shooting the subject this weekend and won't have the opportunity to test in advance. And I only get one chance.

[Ken Lee]

Try Divided Pyrocat HD.

It is neither Minus Development nor Stand Development - and suffers from the limitations of neither.

As you can see in the images posted in the above-linked discussion, it is no problem whatsoever to encompass a range of 14 Zones.

You really have to see it yourself to believe it because it's so far outside our normal experience with b&w film.

Just be sure to add a little wetting agent to the developer to avoid any mottling.

Here are links to additional discussion:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/64343-divided-pyrocat-hd.html

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=67154

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=62871

[Lynn Jones]

Diafine will do it quite easily.

I test all my films and developers to go from GBar .3 up to 1.0 and further test for exposure and development for these contrasts to always get a .70 for middle grey often called Zone 5.

Lynn

[Jay DeFehr]

Michael,

If it was me, I'd develop in a tube, 5:00 pre-soak, 510-Pyro, 1:500, 70F, 1:00 initial agitation, 10 seconds agitation at 5:00 intervals, for 20:00.

I wouldn't trust a staining 2-bath developer for something important until I was sure I had the process worked out.

[engl]

Trying a new developer with an important negative sounds crazy. The question from the OP was about two techniques with which he was familiar, but had not conducted direct comparisons of.

I'm sorry, I do not have much to contribute about stand vs minus. I do use stand development myself and get good results, as long as the film, tank and developer are at room temperature (to avoid convection).

[Jay DeFehr]

Stefan,

Which two developers? I think the question was about stand development versus minus development- two techniques.

Technically speaking, stand development and minus development are not mutually exclusive, if minus development is taken to mean less than normal development. In fact, stand development is frequently used for minus development of film exposed to high Subject Brightness Ranges. In short, I think the question was somewhat mis-stated, but I understood his meaning. Perhaps relating what I would do is less useful than my opinion about what his best course of action might be with the developer he has on hand.

Michael,

If you're getting mottling with stand development, but otherwise satisfactory results, just increase agitation. A few seconds every 5 minutes ought to eliminate mottling.

Good luck!

[engl]

Yes you are right, I meant techniques, I have edited my message. Thanks.

[Ben Calwell]

I don't quite understand divided Pyrocat HD. From my reading of the threads on this, it sounds as if each bath -- A and B -- is the exact same thing. How does that provide a compensating effect?
With divided D23, you've got D23 in the first bath and then a second bath of Kodalk --two trays, each with a different solution in it.
What am I not understanding?

[sanking]

Jay writes, "I wouldn't trust a staining 2-bath developer for something important until I was sure I had the process worked out."

Totally agree, and I would add that for important work I would not trust any procedure not already worked out.

It is also important to take into consideration whether any slight blemishes/imperfections are tolerable (as they might be if we expose and develop to scan) or if a near perfect negative is required (as it might be for printing directly with analog processes).

I say this because while reduced agitation (stand, semi-stand, etc.) and two-bath development have a long history use in photography, it is a fact that very refined technique is required with any minimal agitation procedure to make negatives that are totally free of development artifacts such as mottling, spots, streaks, uneven development, etc. If you need to expose and develop to print with analog processes for scenes of high contrast I would seek out specific process details from Steve Sherman. He is one of the best I know at this.

Sandy King

[Jay DeFehr]

Sandy,

I agree on all counts.