Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

**cyrus** · 28-May-2011, 06:37

Thanks ic-racer,
I did zero it by loosen the screw on the bottom of the counters and re-engaged the counter while it was at xero) so the magenta starts at zero but does not go all the way to 171 as do the other filters. It stops at 167. I sort of guessed at the proper way to zero things but I don't know if that's the reason. I'll have to read up on this

**cyrus** · 28-May-2011, 06:40

It would suck if the reason the magenta doesn't turn all the way is damaged gears because taking apart the gear mechanism without an exploded parts diagram would be a hassle!

**Greg Blank** · 28-May-2011, 10:57

If you look at the front of the housing, there is a door that comes away, the large gear wheels engage the numerical wheels that register the change the filter arms make as they pass the port that the bulb light shine through. Small amounts of the cement across the glass of the filter are non consequential, the light passes and is mixed in the box- though I personally am careful I see sloppy gluing come back all the time. The numerical wheel assembly can be reset, the only thing I can say is fiddle with them until all are at zero, then set the arms at the loweest spot, zero....and then carefully put the assembly back in place....the number like to jump...If you get all zeros thats great, if you spin the filters and all go to 170 even better, if you then go back to zero and they all staid at zero perfect. Perfectlon seldom happens.

Originally Posted by ic-racer

The black housing should be newer. If I remember correctly the ridges you feel with your fingers when moving the dials are the actual gear teeth. That means they are exposed and can be damaged, perhaps that is causing the binding. Seems like a good project where you can strip them and build a real nice one with the best parts from each. You know about the mechanism where you can disengage the teeth to "zero" the dials at any color setting? (Zeroing a filter pack). If you are printing B&W this will just screw you up. Try un-zeroing the magenta.

**Greg Blank** · 28-May-2011, 10:59

You will need to be patient and ask Omega for the Dichrioc Parts daigram.

Originally Posted by cyrus

It would suck if the reason the magenta doesn't turn all the way is damaged gears because taking apart the gear mechanism without an exploded parts diagram would be a hassle!

**cyrus** · 28-May-2011, 12:52

Yeah I figure 167 is magenta enough for my purposes. Im dine with this particular project for now.

**JoshW** · 17-Nov-2019, 11:15

What do you glue them back in with that can withstand the heat ?

**d.s.** · 20-Nov-2019, 10:27

The glue is "Pliobond". It is available in 1 FL.oz. tubes, which is more than you'll ever need. I found the Pliobond at a local hardware store.

See Greg's post #5 above for important details.

i wash the filter mounting tabs with 91% Isopropyl alcohol before and after sanding. Let the tabs dry, I then used a straight pin to place a small drop of the glue on the filter mount tabs, then placed the filter onto the filter mount tabs. I then pressed the filter down gently with a q-tip into the dot of Pliobond glue.

I recall that the filters are a "front or first surface" type of filter and it must be mounted in a specific way. I believe that the front/first surface side faces the light, but I'm not certain, because it was many many years ago that i replaced a filter. So i advise seeking that information before gluing a filter in. Greg may be able to shed light on this.

Reflections on the front/first surface side will have one edge to them. Reflections on the back side will have a double edged look to them.

Hope this helps.