Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

  1. #11

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,588

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    Thanks ic-racer,
    I did zero it by loosen the screw on the bottom of the counters and re-engaged the counter while it was at xero) so the magenta starts at zero but does not go all the way to 171 as do the other filters. It stops at 167. I sort of guessed at the proper way to zero things but I don't know if that's the reason. I'll have to read up on this

  2. #12

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,588

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    It would suck if the reason the magenta doesn't turn all the way is damaged gears because taking apart the gear mechanism without an exploded parts diagram would be a hassle!

  3. #13
    Greg Greg Blank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    1,093

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    If you look at the front of the housing, there is a door that comes away, the large gear wheels engage the numerical wheels that register the change the filter arms make as they pass the port that the bulb light shine through. Small amounts of the cement across the glass of the filter are non consequential, the light passes and is mixed in the box- though I personally am careful I see sloppy gluing come back all the time. The numerical wheel assembly can be reset, the only thing I can say is fiddle with them until all are at zero, then set the arms at the loweest spot, zero....and then carefully put the assembly back in place....the number like to jump...If you get all zeros thats great, if you spin the filters and all go to 170 even better, if you then go back to zero and they all staid at zero perfect. Perfectlon seldom happens.


    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    The black housing should be newer. If I remember correctly the ridges you feel with your fingers when moving the dials are the actual gear teeth. That means they are exposed and can be damaged, perhaps that is causing the binding. Seems like a good project where you can strip them and build a real nice one with the best parts from each. You know about the mechanism where you can disengage the teeth to "zero" the dials at any color setting? (Zeroing a filter pack). If you are printing B&W this will just screw you up. Try un-zeroing the magenta.
    "Great things are accomplished by talented people who believe they will
    accomplish them."
    Warren G. Bennis

    www.gbphotoworks.com

  4. #14
    Greg Greg Blank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    1,093

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    You will need to be patient and ask Omega for the Dichrioc Parts daigram.

    Quote Originally Posted by cyrus View Post
    It would suck if the reason the magenta doesn't turn all the way is damaged gears because taking apart the gear mechanism without an exploded parts diagram would be a hassle!
    "Great things are accomplished by talented people who believe they will
    accomplish them."
    Warren G. Bennis

    www.gbphotoworks.com

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,588

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    Yeah I figure 167 is magenta enough for my purposes. Im dine with this particular project for now.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    1

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    What do you glue them back in with that can withstand the heat ?

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    obx,nc
    Posts
    164

    Re: Ungluing Cracked Omega D5XL dichroic filter

    The glue is "Pliobond". It is available in 1 FL.oz. tubes, which is more than you'll ever need. I found the Pliobond at a local hardware store.

    See Greg's post #5 above for important details.

    i wash the filter mounting tabs with 91% Isopropyl alcohol before and after sanding. Let the tabs dry, I then used a straight pin to place a small drop of the glue on the filter mount tabs, then placed the filter onto the filter mount tabs. I then pressed the filter down gently with a q-tip into the dot of Pliobond glue.

    I recall that the filters are a "front or first surface" type of filter and it must be mounted in a specific way. I believe that the front/first surface side faces the light, but I'm not certain, because it was many many years ago that i replaced a filter. So i advise seeking that information before gluing a filter in. Greg may be able to shed light on this.

    Reflections on the front/first surface side will have one edge to them. Reflections on the back side will have a double edged look to them.

    Hope this helps.

Similar Threads

  1. Bellows Extension calculation
    By Jonathan Brewer in forum Style & Technique
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 20-Jun-2010, 14:21
  2. Lens flair caused by filter?
    By Neal Shields in forum Lenses & Lens Accessories
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 28-Nov-2003, 00:46
  3. filter use on older Omega D2
    By J.L. Frost in forum Darkroom: Equipment
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 7-Nov-2001, 04:53
  4. #8, #25 filter question
    By Andy_1233 in forum Lenses & Lens Accessories
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 28-May-2001, 09:21
  5. Question for Omega D5 condenser enlarger owners
    By Andre Noble in forum Darkroom: Equipment
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 13-Oct-2000, 20:32

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •