Graflex made the Graflarger, which is a negative carrier and light source back for their cameras. If your camera's back is removable, you could make something similar for your camera.Originally Posted by fsibold
Graflex made the Graflarger, which is a negative carrier and light source back for their cameras. If your camera's back is removable, you could make something similar for your camera.
Thanks...I saw some of Clyde Butchers work last fall and got to talking to him about digital negtives in LF. He showed me some of his results and I was blown away!
I am interested but I have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many other projects to addess right now
david
That's true, although the camera might not have sufficient bellows extension for smaller prints (like 16" x 20").
- Leigh
Some of the honchos at GetDPI.com use full-size inter-negatives for their larger prints, generally from MF negatives.
As I understand it, the negative is printed on mylar using a regular photo-quality inkjet printer, then the final image is contact-printed in the darkroom.
I purchased several of these prints and have been quite impressed by the quality, certainly as good as enlarger prints.
Perhaps a lab that normally makes digital prints could do this for you.
- Leigh
Bostick & Sullivan provide a digital negative service. You provide the digital file, and they will make the digital negative to the size you want, with a profile for cyanotype, etc. A guy by the name of Dave Hyams does the work for them. You may want to contact Bostick & Sullivan to get the details.
most expensive part is the lens---get a process lens that covers 8x10 at the smaller magnifications--I have a kodak ektar 203mm that I use--it's a camera lens that does dual duty--so it's "free" for me---it just has coverage for 8x10 to 16x20 and anything smaller. I use this on the beseler 810mxt--this is a factory converted beseler 45mxt with the 810 conversion kit---the kit is simple--basically a cold light head with slots for glass/glassless carriers and diffusion sheets--you canbuild one yourself---before I got that I was building (but did not finish, since I found the 810mxt before I finished) a diy enlarger---started as an overhead projector....way too hot--negatives curl on the light stage---SO--use a light box instead....but the lenses for those overheads suck---they're bright but blurry in the edges---and middle---so what I was going to do was use thelightbox on the BASEBOARD of the omega d2 I had---put the negatives on the lightbox..use darkcloth or a cardboard box as a "bellows" to keep the light in there---lens is a lens with 8x10 coverage like I said, process lens in the normal lens place---THEN---where the negative stage is, you take off the condensers and put in a MIRROR up there (like from the overhead projector) at 45 degrees...this allows wall projection/enlargement---this will likely work better than the converted overhead since you have a real lens mount and precision focusing/alignment.
SO try that--yougot a "small" (4x5) enlarger...get a cheap lightbox--youhave a cardboard box or darkcloth and black tape for "bellows"---you NEED adecent lens though---g-claron or smaller apo ronar will work very nicely...lens is the most expensive part.
Thank you for all the suggestions. I'll try to make an 8x10 enlargement from the 6x7 negative and compare it with the 8x10 contact print. But first, I'll make a new negative with a Toyo view camera, using a 120 film back and a Rodenstock Ysaron reproduction lens.
The 16x20 I made from the 6x7 Pentax negative was not fabulous.
That's essentially how Edward WESTON enlarged his 3x4 Graflex negatives to 8x10.
Wilhelm (Sarasota)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks