Keep at it Tony, do some bracketing to get an idea of how to meater the scene ad rate the paper. I havn't done pre flashing but It seems to help.
Lovely Ray, how do you do your preflash?
Keep at it Tony, do some bracketing to get an idea of how to meater the scene ad rate the paper. I havn't done pre flashing but It seems to help.
Lovely Ray, how do you do your preflash?
Nicholas I do pre-flash under my enlarger with no contrast control filter.
I've previously done test strips to determine the exposure time just short of causing noticeable fogging.
Here in Australia the light is quite harsh so I generally use both both pre-flashing and exposure through a yellow filter.
Pre-flash also has the advantage of increasing the ISO by about 2 stops.
Hi Ray thank you for your observations and suggestions.
I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle - the amount of 'technical info provided' was a bit over the top, but I hoped it would help the respondent to my posting.
You're right about light leaks, but this problem was peculiar to one DDS (the bridge and a not-posted image] - reason not yet obvious.
Not certain as to why the blurriness of the results as I used a 8x loupe and am pretty certain that the gg image was in focus.
The underexposure is because I did not alter the meter reading to compensate for the dark scenes and/or because I'm using a tank to develop the papers hence I cannot monitor the image as it develops.
I have not tried pre-flashing , but will do
regards
Tony
Thanks Nicholas.
regards
Tony
Am i the only one who tried to load the paper into holder (8x10 Fidelity Elite) but failed because its too tight? Needed about 2mm cut off.
Life = Love + Passion + Responsibility
I'm using both Ilford multigrade and Oriental papers in 8x10 fidelity elite holders and the paper is perfectly sized. With my 4x5, though, I'm trimming about 2mm.
Hi Tony,
More on paper negatives here...
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?...gatives.87180/
Like Ray, I pre-flash under the enlarger using a diffuser under the lens.
Trimming the paper to fit a film holder is to be expected.
An edge guide on the trimmer avoids "clipped fingernails"...
Developing under a safelight using diluted developers (just like regular printing) simplifies learning the technique.
Have fun.
Reinhold
www.re-inventedPhotoEquip.com
Reinhold, thanks for info.
I don't have a problem with paper - I cut a 8"x10" sheet into four pieces [100mm x 125mm] using a rotary cutter. The 'adjustable setting arm' permits easy cutting to an exact size.
I'm looking into pre-flashing, but as I do not have an enlarger I'll be trying with a flash gun set at its lowest power and bounced from a ceiling.
For various reasons I prefer not to tray-develop, hence my use of a Jobo tank and sheet "film" insert.
All other things being equal, the only variable between tray and tank development is time. Tray-developing allowing for observable reaction, Tank-development means using an assumption that needs proving by iteration.
Rather than introducing a third variable at this time, I've four exposed paper negatives that I intend to process as before except that the development time will be 1m rather than the 1m 30s used on the first four.
Once I've got reasonable developed paper negatives, then I'll experiment with pre-flashing - which I gather alters (can alter) the assumed ISO rating of the paper????
regards
Tony
Yep, have a go Tony.
Regarding development time - my understanding has always been that photographic paper should be fully developed for at least the recommended time. Pulling a print when it 'looks right' is never a good option. This approach also eliminates one possible variable. Unlike film developing, extending development time of paper has little effect whilst pulling a print early can result in weak tones.
nice tones! is that photoshop witchery or did you get your paper exposure nailed down!
sure is some big movement there. but neat. I like the portrait by then fence and tree the most. fun to be led down to the subject with focus and fence line. the tree in focus is a bit distracting/competing with the person... which could be great!
Re Flashing:
I have heard of people flashing by exposing to a white matboard in front of the lens for a certain amount of time. If you are always going to flash, then using an enlarger seems like the way to go. Ray, have some more comparisons of flashed vs not flashed exposures?
And didnt you post that globe once before ray? I like it =)
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