30 year old Agfa Brovira Speed #5 paper rated at ISO 3. Stand developed to completion in Fomadon LQN.
Wray HR Lustrar 5.6/82mm on Century Graphic 23, f5.6, 1/2 sec:
Pullin London Pulnar 2.8/100mm on Century Graphic 23, f4, 1/4 sec:
30 year old Agfa Brovira Speed #5 paper rated at ISO 3. Stand developed to completion in Fomadon LQN.
Wray HR Lustrar 5.6/82mm on Century Graphic 23, f5.6, 1/2 sec:
Pullin London Pulnar 2.8/100mm on Century Graphic 23, f4, 1/4 sec:
Ian, what you've done with 30 year-old paper is amazing. I can't wait to see what you get when it's 50 years old. Are your final positives from scans or contact prints?
Cheers John. Scans using my old Epson Perfection 3200 then a little bit of tweaking of brightness/contrast in photoshop and added a sepia tint. I might have got lucky with this paper, it was still sealed, I haven't tried paper before to know if all old stock works well or not, I guess it's like film and it largely depends on how it's been stored.
Back to the paper negative again. This is weak winter sunlight at the Ft. Ebey Gun Battery on 8x10 Ilford MGIV RC paper. After two visits not using filters, I found I couldn't control the contrast or effective ISO. I just got wildly different results on each sheet. So I went back yesterday with my trusty #58 green filter and shot at 0.75 ISO. This exposure is f22, 8s thru a Rodenstock 360mm. I'm displaying here an inverted scan with mild digital treatment - will try for a contact print later today.
Anyone of you have tried to invert chemically the paper negative in order to obtain a positive ?
No, but if I had any idea how to do it, I'd try it. Would this be a research project or is there a known technique?Originally Posted by mathieu Bauwens
The idea is as simple as reverse developing of film: develop - bleach - wash - expose - develop - fix. But I have not tried yet...
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Interesting. Green is about a five stop correction. (5X Filter). I presume you didn't get enough contrast control with a 2X yellow filter, is that right?Back to the paper negative again. This is weak winter sunlight at the Ft. Ebey Gun Battery on 8x10 Ilford MGIV RC paper. After two visits not using filters, I found I couldn't control the contrast or effective ISO. I just got wildly different results on each sheet. So I went back yesterday with my trusty #58 green filter and shot at 0.75 ISO. This exposure is f22, 8s thru a Rodenstock 360mm. I'm displaying here an inverted scan with mild digital treatment - will try for a contact print later today.
The Puget Sound area suffers from an abundance of dark green foliage and pale blue (at best) skies. I ended up with the #58 green filter to bring up the foliage and get definition between clouds and sky. The sky in this image is all cloud so that part doesn't show; in an earlier image I was able to get cloud/sky definition. Actually, I think it's only about 2 stops of speed loss, and the exposures are reliable. Without the filter my exposures were wildly unreliable. Give it a try. Of course the light quality in your location may be totally different from my experience. By the way, I'm mounting my filter on the back of the lens after I get the focus adjusted.
You can use a fogging redeveloper if you are lazy. The side effect will be that the image will be sepia.
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