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Thread: Paper negatives

  1. #1151

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    Re: Paper negatives

    I’ve been shooting “paper reversal prints” for a while now. Paper negatives that I bleach with hydrogen peroxide and develop into a positive image. I almost don’t shoot regular paper negatives any more.

    Quote Originally Posted by mpj01 View Post
    I am currently scanning paper negatives on an epson scanner. I hope to try to develop to positive sometime soon. I know there is a technique.

  2. #1152

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    Re: Paper negatives

    I also tried to bleach paper negatives with hydrogen peroxide a few weeks ago and spent about an hour in the darkroom but never got it completely bleached. Can you tell us more about your technique?

  3. #1153
    James R. Kyle's Avatar
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    Re: Paper negatives

    Give this consideration....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PFQXaDdl60

  4. #1154
    Gary Beasley's Avatar
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    Re: Paper negatives

    I saw a video on the Facebook group The Darkroom that Levi Starks posted showing how he built an opaque projector head for his Beseler 4x5 enlarger and was making enlarged prints from paper negatives. The post didnt have a share button or I would have left a link.

  5. #1155

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    Re: Paper negatives

    T.Chabry, I used a process similar to what is used in the YouTube video James posted. The original hydrogen peroxide technique mixed citric acid into the peroxide. Separating the citric acid bath into its own step (like Joe Van Cleave does in the video) really helps with getting a bleached negative.
    I actually bleach the negative, then (in dark) develop it again and rebleach a second time. This gives me a lot more definition in the shadows and some more in the midtowns. I think it's because I'm not using a clearing bath so my next experiment is to use a clearing bath and not do the second bleaching.
    If you PM me, happy to chat more. One day I'll actually do a video

  6. #1156
    James R. Kyle's Avatar
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    Re: Paper negatives

    Very CooL>!!!

  7. #1157

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    Re: Paper negatives

    Interesting, so you do a second development after bleaching. When you develop again (I assume under a safe light) do you see a silver image (negative) forming again ?

    Quote Originally Posted by donkittle View Post
    T.Chabry, I used a process similar to what is used in the YouTube video James posted. The original hydrogen peroxide technique mixed citric acid into the peroxide. Separating the citric acid bath into its own step (like Joe Van Cleave does in the video) really helps with getting a bleached negative.
    I actually bleach the negative, then (in dark) develop it again and rebleach a second time. This gives me a lot more definition in the shadows and some more in the midtowns. I think it's because I'm not using a clearing bath so my next experiment is to use a clearing bath and not do the second bleaching.
    If you PM me, happy to chat more. One day I'll actually do a video

  8. #1158

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    Re: Paper negatives

    Thank you James, I saw that video before but forgot he used concentrated hydrogen peroxide. I used the drug store one, probably a 3% solution.

    Donkittle, I would love to chat with you in private but your knowledge will help others than me if we continue here.

    I did the same as you but used white vinegar for the second bath. It did bleach a little after an hour but I ended up with a black paper after the second exposition. Do you use the 3% solution or a stronger solution ?

  9. #1159

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    Re: Paper negatives

    I used this method years ago when paper was cheaper. Now I don't make paper negatives because of cost. I use x-ray film with which I am very familiar because I learned with orthochromatic film in the 1930's. Basically same stuff.

  10. #1160
    James R. Kyle's Avatar
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    Re: Paper negatives

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    I used this method years ago when paper was cheaper. Now I don't make paper negatives because of cost. I use x-ray film with which I am very familiar because I learned with orthochromatic film in the 1930's. Basically same stuff.
    I find that with X-Ray film with the tray method of development it is very VERY difficult to avoid scratches. The use of film carriers minimizes this - but still MUST be handled very carefully. The "Blue" as well as the "Green" X-Ray films.

    What sort of handling do you use? I have Fuji"Green" and "Blue". It is rather old as well, and I must often use ISO-10 to 20.

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